cutting spline slots in frames

[Eric Mims]

Trying to figure the best way to cut slots for splines in the frame I finished today. I do not have a table saw at my house though I have access to one. I am writing the router out because an 1/8th inch bit won't go deep enough and I don't think a slot cutter will either.

I'm trying to rig my RAS to cut the slots and I think I can by rotating the motor (guard off, not for weak of heart) then making a simple sliding jig to hold the frame as I move it past the blade.. My Chopmaster does not cut a flat bottom, any suggestions for cheap blade that cuts flat bottom for this purpose? Also, I assume ~1/8" splines are the most common, is that correct or do people go thicker? And how deep should you go? This particular frame is 3" wide with only a small rabbet and it seems like there's such a thing as too big of a spline (from asthetics standpoint).

thanks

[Jim Becker]

Eric, it may be something you can do with a small hand saw and a narrow chisel if you work carefully. Something like a razor saw, dovetail saw or a "gent's" saw.

[glenn bradley]

If you have access to a TS then I would make a cradle jig like you'll see posted all over the place and go to your TS available area.

[Jim Thiel]

If you have a biscuit cutter, you could hit both sides of the corners to define the spline location, and then finish it by hand as well.

Jim

[Eric Mims]

thanks, I might do the table saw thing. Basically the same as the RAS idea I had. Gotta find a proper saw blade for doing it though.

[Jim Becker]

Eric, I misread your original post and thought you did "not" have access to a table saw. Absolutely the way to do it with a sled that holds the assembled box at the angle as you run it along the fence.

[Eric Mims]

I've got access to one it's just more inconvenient. I'll try the RAS tomorrow, using the rotated motor and a miter jig I already made for it.

Anyone know of any 'guidelines' for spline thickness and depth?

[Bert Johansen]

Eric, a quick rule of thumb is the spline should not exceed one-third the thickness of the frame. And even that seems a bit too wide, to my mind. Smaller is better, particularly if you are using a contrasting wood.

[Doug Shepard]

When you say "rotate the motor" on the RAS are you talking about turning it like you would for ripping lumber? Or turning it so the blade is parallel with the table? The first way would scare the bejeezus out of me doing it on a RAS - sled or not. I would think the 2nd way would be just as safe as a TS. Most of the blade would be behind the fence, although you might have to put the frames on a higher platform if you cant get the motor assembly and blade low enough.

[Eric Mims]

I did it so the RAS blade was parallel to the table and used my miter jig to hold the frame, sliding the whole jig from right to left to cut the slot in the frame corner. Of course it meant cutting a slot through the jig fences but that's no worry.

[Charles McCracken]

Eric,

For tooling a 1/8" kerf, flat grind rip blade like the LM72R010 is the best cutter to use for the slots. As far as the method, the radial arm saw doesn't sound safe to me in this application.

[Eric Mims]

Thank you Charles. I went to the 2 Borgs and neither had any flat grind blades. My Chopmaster cut ended up working pretty well, but I will jot down that Freud blade number for future reference!

[Eric Mims]

Here's a pic of how I ended up doing it. The whole MDF board moves, the left fence is actually attached to the MDF at 45 degrees and the clamped board on the right sets the depth of the spline cut. The frame is moved out of the way for the photo. This frame has 3 corner splines which you probably can't see.

(http://sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=59289&d=1172861007)