Captured Rig Gloat

[Frank Kobilsek]

With alot of prodding from Keith here I finally got my Captured Hollowing rig built. Not counting the boring bars I have all of about $90 wrapped up in it including laser system.

The D-Handle I had made at a local machine shop for $56 and the back rest is (2) 1 1/4" square tubes drilled which the bro-in-law whipped out for $20 and 3/4 ready rod. The Laser itself is a $1.59 pointer from the 'Bejing Bob' bin at the local ACE hardware. Tubing for the laser is just old conduit. Made some fittings from maple. The pictures show second piece. The blank had a crack and just kept getting smaller.

I have both the Bosch 5/8 and 3/4 bars and a Pencil curved bar all to fit the system.

Much easier than free hand hollowing.

Frank

[Mark Cothren]

Looks like you're in business now, Frank!

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Well........the engineer in you just came out! Well done Frank. Can't wait to see results with it! I tried mine once...worked surpisingly well. I won't try it again until I get those knobs done. Guess what project is on for this weekend? Can't wait to see your first projects with that new tool!

[Keith Burns]

Way to go Frank, 'bout time:rolleyes: I know you're gonna love it. Great job!

[Bernie Weishapl]

Congrats Frank. Can't wait to see some HF's.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Very nice set-up Frank! I'll have to start putting some thought into doing something simular.

[Jim Becker]

You're going to enjoy turning with that captive system, Frank! I'd never go back to manual...these things let you concentrate on the "art" without worrying so much about holding a difficult to control tool that's under a lot of force.

[Frank Kobilsek]

Thanks guys, I am trying to finish anything I have dry before an art show on St. Patricks Day. Then it will be play time again.

Frank

[Dario Octaviano]

Great job! I am sure you will enjoy it. :)

[Mark Pruitt]

You guys that make your own rigs really amaze me. I know you think it's simple and straight forward, but I swear if I tried it the bloomin' thing would fall apart, assuming I ever got it assembled to begin with.

Mark, who's sweating having to install the remote switch on his Mustard
(and I know you're going to tell me that's easy too. 'Taint!)

[Ron Erickson]

Frank thanks for posting the pictures, nice job and I think I could make one. Ron

[Frank Kobilsek]

Mark & Ron,
You guys can do this. Even if you buy the D-handle, avoid the cost of the back rest and the laser rig.

The back rest is simple ready rod and three bars that could be about anything. I don't mean to pick on Jamison but his back rest in the Craft Supply catalog is $90 and the LAser rig is $130. Laser is $1.59 toy. I drilled a 1/2" hole in a block of maple & carved a little notch for the button to fit it. Push it in and its on, pull it out and its off. The rest is just conduit fittings.

Everybody have a great weekend.

Frank

[Clem Wixted]

...
Mark, who's sweating having to install the remote switch on his Mustard
(and I know you're going to tell me that's easy too. 'Taint!)

Mark,

Contact me. I just made my own switch from a wall paddle switch.

Clem

[Skip Spaulding]

Setup looks great Frank, very nice job.

[Jim Ketron]

Nice set up Frank!
can't wait to see some HF's soon!

[Bill Wyko]

I'm still a little foggy on how one of those work. Once I get a bigger lathe I'll get one and figure it out.:confused: :D

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Bill...........I've got one I'm just learning to use on my Jet Mini VS.

[Kurt Rosenzweig]

Great job Frank! I love making my own tools! Just a thought and It may mean notta but most the the store bought rigs have the D part of the handle towards the user. I kind of remember a thread somewhere where it made a difference. I think it cut down on vibration or something. Try flipping it both ways and see if it's true. Just a suggestion and I'm by no means an expert. I'll try and find where i read it. Great Job!

[Mike Vickery]

very nice. I possible could you get a close up of where the laser arm attaches to the D-handle?

[John Hart]

Inspirational Frank! I see these things and wonder why I still beat myself to death trying to get a decent wall thickness.....only to blow the thing apart.:rolleyes:

Sheesh....I gotta do this.

[Corey Hallagan]

Congrats! Nice set up.

Corey

[Keith Burns]

Great job Frank! I love making my own tools! Just a thought and It may mean notta but most the the store bought rigs have the D part of the handle towards the user. I kind of remember a thread somewhere where it made a difference. I think it cut down on vibration or something. Try flipping it both ways and see if it's true. Just a suggestion and I'm by no means an expert. I'll try and find where i read it. Great Job!

Interesting point Kurt. I didn't notice that in Franks pic. I do have mine with the D facing me. It does two things. First it give you more swing allowing you to get deeper under the rim. The second thing is I rest my arm accross the handle which may help with vibration.

[Kurt Rosenzweig]

Also with the counter rotation of the spindle it pins the bar down when cutting as apposed to lifting it.

[John Miliunas]

Inspirational Frank! I see these things and wonder why I still beat myself to death trying to get a decent wall thickness.....only to blow the thing apart.:rolleyes:

Sheesh....I gotta do this..

Yeah, ditto to what Mr. Hart said! :o Nice job, Frank. I needs me one o' those! :) :cool:

[Rex Guinn]

Frank;
I am new to this, can you explain how this thing works, my guess is it helps to control the cut for hf's, but why do you need the laser light?
Thanks

[Frank Kobilsek]

Keith and Kurt,

You are correct, the D handle should be facing me. I learned that Friday night when I just could not get around the corner on a little piece with a relatively flat top. The laser mount is clamped on but it drifted from the vibration so I superglued it. I guess I'll make another and flip the handle.

Rex, The rig helped you keep the tool tip on center the best cutting position for small scraper tips. Hollowing freehand is a bit of a rough work-out with little catches and uncomfortable contorsions to reach where you want to cut. Now the laser helps you find wall thickness. You set the laset dot at the distance from the tool tip that you want the wall to be. As you turn the dot will get closer and closer to falling off the edge of the piece. When the dot falls off the piece you are at the wall thickness. Get Lyle Jamison's video, he explains it well.

Thanks Again guys. I am going to like this set-up.

Frank

[Jim Becker]

If you make your rear support so that you can position it more to the back of the lathe, you can have the handle facing away from you if you prefer...the idea is that the range of motion in the slot needs to match your cut requirements whichever way the handle is facing. There is no right or wrong, although "D forward" does give you more swing to the back of the lathe without repositioning the handle.