Mark Singer (or anyone else that has BB's)

[Aaron Beaver]

Just wondering how you push the wood through using the Board Buddies? They seem to be in the way and I can't use a regular push stick with them.

I could use a regular one if the board was wide enough and the push stick would fit between the board buddies and the blade. Lately I have been ripping 4-8" wide boards and they just seem in the way, I would have to reach over the front one to push through or use a thin stick and push under the BB's.

So I am just checking to see what you do to finish pushing the boards through. Thanks

[Dan Larson]

For through cuts, I use only one BB on the outfeed side of the blade and push the stock with a regular push stick. For dado cuts, I use both BB's (one on infeed side, one on outfeed side of blade as you would expect) and push the stock through with a piece of scrap of similar thickness as the stock.

Dan

[Ben Grunow]

Dont have em, only seen them in pictures. It seems to me that when the push stick gets to them they are no longer needed for the cut so could they be mounted on something that would allow them to move up witha simple touch (might take a litle thinking and getting used to when cutting but might be worth a thought) like some of those actuated lever hold downs. I am thinking out loud.

[Gary McKown]

Here is how I do it. First, if you take care in mounting the BB "ways" and adjusting the arm length, then you will have a half inch or more of offset between the fence and the wheel for all but the thinnest/narrowest rips. Second, I wouldn't recommend using the BBs for rips much less than ½", anyway.

I made a couple push sticks about 18" long, one ½" thick, one ¼", and about 1½" wide. On the business end, I cut notches on a 30 degree slant, to catch different thicknesses of stock and still clear the BB arm. On the other end, I mounted an L handle, offset to the left a bit so it clears the fence.

With one or the other of these sticks I can push virtually all rips through, behind both BBs, with the push stick nearly parallel to the table, and still have the pushing hand far away from the blade when the cut is complete.

[Aaron Beaver]

For through cuts, I use only one BB on the outfeed side of the blade and push the stock with a regular push stick. For dado cuts, I use both BB's (one on infeed side, one on outfeed side of blade as you would expect) and push the stock through with a piece of scrap of similar thickness as the stock.

Dan

Maybe thats what I need to try and just use one on the outfeed side instead of both.

[Aaron Beaver]

Here is how I do it. First, if you take care in mounting the BB "ways" and adjusting the arm length, then you will have a half inch or more of offset between the fence and the wheel for all but the thinnest/narrowest rips. Second, I wouldn't recommend using the BBs for rips much less than ½", anyway.

I made a couple push sticks about 18" long, one ½" thick, one ¼", and about 1½" wide. On the business end, I cut notches on a 30 degree slant, to catch different thicknesses of stock and still clear the BB arm. On the other end, I mounted an L handle, offset to the left a bit so it clears the fence.

With one or the other of these sticks I can push virtually all rips through, behind both BBs, with the push stick nearly parallel to the table, and still have the pushing hand far away from the blade when the cut is complete.

I am not following what you are saying really, because to use a push stick between the fence and the roller I would have to take my hand off the push stick, reach over the BB and grab it again.

[Chuck Saunders]

I just push the board through. Yes, you do have to push the board past the first BB and then reposition. But that is OK because the BB are holding the board so it will not go anywhere.
Chuck

[Neil Bosdet]

I use slim sticks to push small stock through. The BB's do the work of holding down and against the fence so all I have to worry about is getting the material through. They work great.

[Mark Singer]

As mentioned just use one BB for fost ripping operatons. If you have it aligned on the waste piece so it holds down the piece that is next to the fence, it can't kick back because the BB only spins one way. So you can push on the left side or off cut side . Also if the single BB is behind the blade, just push through on the side next to the fence. The pice will then be pushed passed the blade so your good. Use 2 BB for dados , grooves and rabetts. The 2 push down to make a consistent depth cut through the board keeping flat against the table. One is forward and one behind the blade. Sometimes it is handy to just use a thin piece of wood as a push stick and push right next to the fence and all the way through. This works well for thin mouldings and trim where you use 2 BB's and there is no room for a regular push stick

[Aaron Beaver]

I just push the board through. Yes, you do have to push the board past the first BB and then reposition. But that is OK because the BB are holding the board so it will not go anywhere.
Chuck
Just figured stopping the wood could cause it to burn, at least that is what i have been told, but its nothing a little sanding wouldn't take care of.


As mentioned just use one BB for fost ripping operatons. If you have it aligned on the waste piece so it holds down the piece that is next to the fence, it can't kick back because the BB only spins one way. So you can push on the left side or off cut side . Also if the single BB is behind the blade, just push through on the side next to the fence. The pice will then be pushed passed the blade so your good. Use 2 BB for dados , grooves and rabetts. The 2 push down to make a consistent depth cut through the board keeping flat against the table. One is forward and one behind the blade. Sometimes it is handy to just use a thin piece of wood as a push stick and push right next to the fence and all the way through. This works well for thin mouldings and trim where you use 2 BB's and there is no room for a regular push stick

One of my problems was there wasn't any wood to push on the left side, or very little maybe only an 1/8" or 1/4" in some places. I will just start using one when ripping and keep it behind the the blade just a little.

Thanks everyone for the suggestions

[Gary Keedwell]

I purchased the BB because I have a few projects that will require handling sheet goods. I seriously considered a guide system for circular saw to break down the sheets and finish them on the Table saw.
Trouble is that I don't like ripping sheets on the TS because of the hand and eye coordination thing you need to keep the stock tight against the fence.
Just finished my first project using Board Buddies and it worked wonderful. And to think I was actually considering Festool's T55 circular saw. I just don't do enough work with sheet goods to justify it so the Board Buddy was a great compromise.
Besides, now I can use that money on a new sander and vacuum.

Gary K.:)