Seeking milk paint recommendations

[Ken Werner]

I'm thinking of a pine case to hold firewood near the stove. I have a nice Shaker design in mind. I'd like to finish the outside with milk paint. Any advice for specific brand or type? It seems to me "The Old-Fashioned Milk Paint Company" is the one to buy. Comments please. This'll be my first use of milk paint.
Ken

[Jim Becker]

I've used their product and it's very good.

[Mike Murray]

I've used the stuff that Woodcraft sells (not sure the brand) with very good results. Milk paint is "different." It takes some practice, and you have to stir it constantly, but not so much that it foams up. I like to use it in a watered-down, stain/wash type application where the grain shows through clearly. Then distress the corners with sandpaper, and leave it dry, no clear coat. Has a very unique and attractive look.

[Steven Wilson]

The "Old-Fashion Milk Paint Company" is the one to get. The finish schedule that I like for Milk Paint on pine is

1) Apply a coat of dewaxed shellac to the project. This will seal in any knots and it will also prevent glue line bleedthough which is especially noticeable when you make laminated legs.

2) Apply one or more coats of milk paint, depends if you like it kind of streaky.

3) Knock down the finish nibs with a scotch brite pad.

4) Apply one liberal coat of Boiled Linseed Oil over the project by rubbing it in. This is a great classic finish for Milk Paint. Let dry.

5) Apply a coat or two or General Finishes Arm-R-Seal over the top.

The resulting finish is tough, looks great, and is my favorite "paint" finish. As always try your complete finish shedule on scrap first.

[Ken Werner]

Steven, does the dewaxed shellac decrease the penetration of the milk paint into the wood? Wouldn't it make the milk paint adhere less well? Or do you just put shellac over knots and glue lines?

Thanks,
Ken

[Steven Wilson]

It doesn't effect the adhesion. You're not applying a bunch of coats of shellac, just one or two coats of a 1lb cut. I had one poplar laminate leg that without shellac took 15 coats of milk paint to cover. If you only use shellac for knots and glue lines you will see the transition from bare wood to shellac under the milk paint so it's best to apply shellac to the entire piece. That way you will have a uniform substrate under the milk paint and it will look good.