Couple router related questions...inlay, templates, curves, sanding

[Luke McFadden]

So, I got my new router (bosch 1617EVSPK) and no bits to come in the mail yet. So I've been drawing up specific plans and getting ready to start on them. But I had some questions as I was thinking through some things:

(1) I'm interested in learning about doing some inlay. Basic straight lines, and then some actual designs. I can see how to do the straight lined inlays, but how would I go about say inlaying the shape of a canoe paddle (say 3" long) into a piece of wood. I know it would have something to do with working with templates. But how do I go about learning how to do this? I've seen heart, bow-ties, etc... as inlays, and I'd like to learn about this general process of shaped inlay (as well as lined inlays, if I am even using the proper nomenclature). So help! Resources? Websites?

(2) I'm also interested in how to make the router follow curves? Picture a 36" rectangle, with a half circle on top and centered (a diameter of say 10"). If I wanted to route a 1/4" deep cut along the top of this shape 2" in from the edge, how could I follow this curved shape so closely?

(3) Do they make sanding bits that work with routers? I've seen them for drill presses, but on my initial digging I couldn't find anything? I'm was think this might work ok for sanding the interior of some curved lines?

Sorry if these are introductory questions, but I'm new! I've got Pat Warner's DVD on the way to me right now. I'm just wanting to learn, so any information you can provide will be appreciated. Thanks!

Luke

[Tom Jones III]

1) You need something like this
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=1391
Make your own template then use the brass bushings to follow the template

(2) To follow a curve, one way is to make a template using hardboard, mdf, whatever, then use a straight bit with a bearing at the end of it. The bearing will roll along your template while the cutter makes the corresponding cut.

(3) Never heard of sanding router bit

[Mike Langford]

I'd never heard of a sanding router bit either figuring the high speed of the router (20,000+ rpm) would be too fast.......but then I remembered the sanding drum attachments for the Dremel tool (which is basically a small router that can turn upwards to 35,000 rpm :eek: )

A Dremel would be idea for sanding the interior of some curved lines and with the addition of a precision router base from Stewart-MacDonald
http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Dremel_rotary_tools,_attachments/1/Precision_Router_Base.html
and some spiral downcut bits (also from StewMac) You can do some real intricate inlay work.....

Dremel also makes a plunge base for their tool.
http://www.dremel.com/en-us/attachments-and-accessories/attachment-accessory-detail.htm?H=188575&G=69679&I=69793

[Jerry Ingraham]

I have used the router inlay kit mentioned above and it works very well. As far as routing the semi-circle you've described, I agree that a template would be best.

[Luke McFadden]

For some reason, I never can remember that I have a dremel!

I'd be interested in learning more about doing inlay with a dremel. Is there an inlay kit for dremels? I see the bits for using when doing inlay. But is the technique similar to that of using a router for inlay? Meaning using a bearing kit w/ a template? Or is it mostly freehand?

Thanks!

[Jim Myers]

I did an inlay of an inlaced trinity knot in the top of the jewerly box I made for my wife.

The way I did it since I knew I was only doing one was to take a couple of peices of scrap wood and make a template from them.

First I cut a perfect circle into one peice and then 1/3 of the knot into another.

I clamped the wood to my work piece and using a template follower bit (one with the bearing on the top) routed out the circle to the depth I needed plus a smidge for sanding. Then did the same for the knot rotating it when needed.

The hard part came when I had to cut out a peice of posterboard to match the routed part of the peice and then transfer it to your inlay material and scroll saw cut it out and sand to fit.

Like I said it may have been the hard way but since I had never did anything like it before it worked for me.

You can see the results here.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=51539

Good luck

[Mike Langford]

For some reason, I never can remember that I have a dremel!

I'd be interested in learning more about doing inlay with a dremel. Is there an inlay kit for dremels? I see the bits for using when doing inlay. But is the technique similar to that of using a router for inlay? Meaning using a bearing kit w/ a template? Or is it mostly freehand?

Thanks!

Luke,
A Dremel is a great little tool (I own three!) that when used in a base is ideal for inlays but its mostly freehand....because of it's bits size they don't make bearings that small. (although StewMac offers a bearing attachment for their precision base for edge routing)
http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Dremel_rotary_tools,_attachments/2/Precision_Router_Base.html

Basically for freehand inlaying you cut your inlay first and then trace the profile on the piece you're inletting. When you freehand route the profile, you route up to within a hair of the profiles line and you also set your depth of cut slightly shallower than the inlay piece so that the inlay stands a little "proud" for sanding level....

Get yourself some books on inlaying and also practice on some scraps to get comfortable with the technique. You probably want to inlay a logo on the canoe paddles you're making!

Here are a few pics of the mandolin fretboard I inlaid with MOP diamond position markers using a Dremel....

[Luke McFadden]

These are some great pictures! Thanks for posting them, they are beautiful and encouraging. I might try my luck with inlay this weekend.

L

[Eric Wong]

If you are interested in inlay, I would recommend researching Steve Latta's work. A few articles are available on FineWoodworking.com, and I know he did an episode of the Woodwright's shop.

He does not use a router, but instead uses many shop-made scratching tools. I've seen him work and his methods are reasonably fast and quite fascinating.

[Mike Langford]

These are some great pictures! Thanks for posting them, they are beautiful and encouraging. I might try my luck with inlay this weekend.

L

Best advice I can give you is don't rush! Don't have a lot of distractions going on around you when you're trying to concentrate on your routing.
Also don't get "caught up" in the whirl of the tool and feel like you need to hurry and finish your cut.....its not a race....if it takes 30 mins. to rout 1 inch then thats what it takes!
Position your work up high enough that you're not straining yourself any way and where you can comfortably get close to your work to see the profile lines.
Get a couple of bright lamps to illuminate the work. I don't know how young you are or how good your eyesight is, but you may want (or need to,like me :( ) get a headband flip type magnifier for close-up work.

Another tool you might consider getting depending how small and intricate your inlays are is a good fret saw. The type that uses the straight 5" jewelers or scroll blades - not an coping saw!

Lastly, For your small,delicate work you'll want to rig up some type of air stream on you router to keep the line of cut blown off (if not you may become light headed and pass out :eek: :) ) I rigged an inexpensive ($3) fish tank aerator up to my (older style) Dremel base - it works great!

Well, I didn't mean to get long winded......Good Luck and have FUN!


Here are some pics of my inlay tools....(I LOVE Pics :D :D :D )

[Luke McFadden]

I'm glad you love pictures! I'm going to try to give this a go this weekend! I'll post my progress.