Glue block ?'s

[Kevin McPeek]

I sometimes use glue block when doing bowls and the glue blocks are normally kiln dried wood.
Is there anything to be aware of if you are using a glue block on green wood? I was thinking that the base of the bowl may not have the chance to move as it would if it were not bound with glue to wood that is stable. I have never noticed anything but just started to wonder about it.
Also, if I wanted to glue a piece on that would later become the foot of the bowl would any of the above thoughts apply any differently?

[Dick Strauss]

Kevin,
I had a glue block crack while turning wet wood. Both surfaces were solid material, had been planed flat, and had a liberal amount of thick CA glue on both surfaces. By the next morning it had almost broke itself completely free of the waste block. Luckily I just needed to clean up the foot by that point.

If you want to use a waste block as a foot, you might have it later crack off because the wet wood wants to shrink more than the dry foot.

[Rich Souchek]

I usually only use glue blocks on green wood only long enough to rough it out or get the form wanted.
Polyurathane glue (gorilla glue etc.) is really good for sticking to wet wood, and even expands to get a good glue joint.
Rich S.

[Kevin McPeek]

Thanks for the info.
I figured there would be more "opinions" on using glue blocks of green wood.

[Bill Wyko]

I've actually been using a 3-M double sided tape I got at H-depot. It has a red protective film and the tape is grey. I heat up the tape and if it's cold, the parts too. Then I press them together. It's never come apart yet. I have had 3 glued tenons come apart though. When it comes time to take it apart I start a cut into the tape with my parting tool then you can slowly take them apart and with no tape residue either. If you try it, let me know if it works for you.:)