Lathe stand

[Jim Podsedly]

I am looking for ideas on a stand for a newly acquired lathe. It is a Palmgren 15".

What material works best for a stand? Height? width?

Any experiences that would be helpful in building one and any options that would be helpful.

TYIA

[George Tokarev]

Sheet goods, not 2x construction lumber. Melamine-faced chipboard is heavy, glues well with the special melamine glue, and with dados and screws to help. very rigid.

Make the top double thick for rigidity and raise the lathe on blocks at the mounting points so you can get underneath for cleanout. You want the lathe as far forward as possible on the stand, and the ends slanted outward ~20% greater than the swing of the lathe to counter out-of-balance thrust coming over the top. I hung a cabinet below mine. Drawers for "stuff" and shelves for my tailed portable tools. Also put it against the wall to contain the mess and save floor space.

With favorable geometry and the fully glued heavy goods you probably won't need it, but your bottom "shelf" can be a box for possible weighting. Down and behind will overcome the tendency to lift the back legs. You can be as crude or as sophistocated as you want in the finish, but make it rigid.

[Bonnie Campbell]

We just used 3/4" plywood and 2x4's to build my table. It's nothing fancy at all, but it doesn't wobble when I use the lathe, so I guess it'll do. Height you want the spindles centered about elbow height, right guys/gals? I lucked out getting mine right, because I didn't know what to go by at the time we were building :rolleyes:

[Mark Pruitt]

By far, the most important thing is that you make the stand very solid. No matter what material you use, the heavier the better. DAMHIKT.

[Gilbert Vega]

I've posted this before but here is the one I made for the same lathe.

I used 1 sheet of 3/4" MDF for the top, one sheet of 3/4" China ply for the carcass, 2 sheets (5'x5') of 1/2" baltic birch for the drawers, 5 six foot x 8" Oak boards for the drawer fronts and a bunch of 2" Oak boards for the face fronts and and trim on sides and back. Also used 1/2 sheet of plastic laminate for the top and 10 full extension slides.

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k240/00lightning/lathe3.jpg

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k240/00lightning/lathe4.jpg

[Kevin McPeek]

I didn't like what was available for the DVR when I got my XP so this is what I built. It's all heavy wall 2x2 steel tubing with the exception of the slats in the bottom shelf (1x1) and the top plate which is 1/4 x 8 flat bar.
And just so I don't hear anything about a clean shop. There's a second look.

[Rex Guinn]

Jim;
Just build you a quick and dirty one before you decide to build a final one. I just built one from 2x10's. I will put sand bags on the lower bench, so far it's working great. Not near as nice as Gilbert's, but I don't have any other tools except the Palmgren lathe and a skill saw.

[Bob Noles]

Here is a link to the one I threw together and it has worked very well for me.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=28217

The "A" frame construction is really a very sturdy route to consider.

[mike fuson]

As well said by everyone, weight is the main thing. I built a 2x4 frame cabinet with 3/4 ply sides and filled it with bags of cement that had layed around and had set up.

[Gary Herrmann]

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=44960&highlight=geronimo

Top is 3 pieces of 3/4" MDF; carcase is MDF, drawers and nosings are oak. Its a heavy stand.

[Bob Hallowell]

Jim welcome to the palmgren club, I used 8/4 utility oak but it was free and I have more. but any stand made heavy will work. I left the long slot under the ways open so I could easily install my shop made steady rest and such.

mine not near as fancy as Gilbert's but it works
One more thing I did was drill a bunch of hole in the top near the rear right corner for my chisels and such I do like that as most are in reach as I work

My pics are on this thread

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=48946
Bob

[George Tokarev]

Wanted to remind you that it's easy to elevate, but difficult to lower a stand already built. Put the centerline at the elbow to begin with. Most end up a touch higher, because the position of comfort for cutting takes a bit of flex in the elbow. If you're the type who cuts with big handle drops and the wings of a gouge rather than modest or nonexistant drops with the nose of a gouge, you may end up going higher.

I find tool control with a gouge handle nearly parallel with the floor to be a lot easier way to avoid tearout and clear my toolrest, the ways and banjo. Also keeps things low enough to use scrapers for hollowing without stepping up on a bit of a riser to get the forearm straight.

[Jeffrey Fusaro]

jim--

i am using an old base cabinet from a set of kitchen cabinets. the height is right. i added leveling feet to the underside. it already has drawers and storage space built in.

all i had to do was add a 1" thick mdf top and some paint.

all the 'borgs' carry decent quality unfinished kitchen cabinets. you could even buy a length of pre-cut formica counter top and be 'in business' by dinner time.

sand can be used for ballast, as needed. i use 25lb. bags of lead shot. they are more compact easier to move around.

[Jim Podsedly]

Some great stands and ideas.

Thank you all for the input!

Jim

[Bob Noles]

jim--

i am using an old base cabinet from a set of kitchen cabinets. the height is right. i added leveling feet to the underside. it already has drawers and storage space built in.

all i had to do was add a 1" thick mdf top and some paint.

all the 'borgs' carry decent quality unfinished kitchen cabinets. you could even buy a length of pre-cut formica counter top and be 'in business' by dinner time.

sand can be used for ballast, as needed. i use 25lb. bags of lead shot. they are more compact easier to move around.

Jeffery,

Great lathe area and I really like the idea on the reflectiving backing on the walls. Looks like you have little problem seeing what the lathe and tools are doing.

[Jason Anders]

You might consider using some heavy cast iron lathe legs like the ones used on the Jet 1442/1642 lathes. Then you could add a shelf or ballast box like Dominic Greco did on his Jet 1642. I also bought the Palmgren lathe (a Christmas present) and received it about two weeks ago. I'm waiting on a set of legs to arrive Friday and can't wait to finally get the Palmgren setup. I decided to go this route for a couple of reasons.

Biggest being that while researching various benches/stands I came upon a set for sale on eBay for a reasonable price (though shipping may be cost prohibitive based on your location). Average cost $70-$75 +shipping.
My workspace is a small polebarn type garage with no floor and the soil seems to be rather caustic to regular wood so any shelving and benches are free floating attached to the side walls and no real good spot to put another one for a lathe. Plus the span would have to be 8' where as the lathe is only about 5'. Also a permanent bench of this type would most likely have to stay if we moved. Any standing bench would have to be treated wood legs or on some sort of pads (probably not good for stability). Concrete legs could also be an option but more work/hassle.
I really liked the looks of Dominic's setup but couldn't afford a Jet 1642. He's got picture articles on this site and woodcentral
Cost vs. Time vs. Cost Sure I could probably build something cheaper out of metal or wood (maybe) but then there is the cost of my Time which I usually always say I've got more time than money but I really wanted to start using the lathe instead of spending more time doing flatwork or metalwork. Lately my time has been consumed by other things so the wife (CEO :D ) agreed that with the cost of the legs + lathe still under $500 go ahead and buy the legs.
Legs are heavy by themselves @80lbs each and don't take up much room in my already space deficient area.
Would look really nice/professional when painted blue and would work well in a new shop too (if we move in the near future).
Just another idea :). FYI there is another set for sale on eBay right now Item number: 160086781999 . Kathy the sales manager said this could be the last set they have.

[John Hart]

Wanted to remind you that it's easy to elevate, but difficult to lower a stand already built......

Naw...piece of cake. Stand in your shavings!:)

Ok....that's what I do.:o

[Glenn Hodges]

For my Nova 3000 I went to their website and used their plans. This stand has done a fine job for me. It was made from 4x4 post, 2x4's, and 3/4 inch plywood. I went to the river and filled up a bunch of buckets with sand for the weight.

[Daniel Heine]

Jeffery,

You can buy a metal stand from Sears that is made just for that lathe. I have one, and the stand is decent, I just made a different shelf for the bottom and put 200# of sand on it. My Palmgren will be a year old in April, and I am thrilled with it.

Happy Turning,
Dan Heine