Need Help On Chosing A Ts Blade

[Tullie Templet]

For now all I have is a Dewalt 10" table saw. I need to know what blade should I put on it. Should I use a combination blade (if so is this a good one http://www.amazon.com/Freud-LU84R011-50-Tooth-Combination-Blade/dp/B0000225V8/ref=pd_ts_hi_45/102-9877222-2020922) or should I get two different ones. One for ripping and another for crosscut and just change them out as needed. I have a 12" mitre saw that I can do most of my crosscuts with and I will not be crosscutting anything wide for now.I will probably be doing more ripping (ply and hardwood) for now until my WW skills improve. Please give me your advice on what I should. Once again I call on you woodworking gods to guide me in my time of need. THANKS!!

[Tom Jones III]

My advice is get the combo blade you listed. I have it and it is a good combo blade at a good price. When your skills improve get a specialized rip blade and a specialized crosscut blade.

FYI, As your skills improve you will probably find that the mitre saw does not cut accurately enough for you and you will start using the TS for all crosscuts that need furniture quality accuracy.

[Jim Becker]

Although there can be some advantages to separate rip and cross cut blades, most woodworkers do just fine with a decent combo or "general purpose" blade outside of ripping "a quantity" of thick stock. (A dedicated rip blade is good to have for the latter if you do it a lot)

[glenn bradley]

The blade you mention is mentioned as good by other posters here. I would take that as good info. I was not impressed with my WoodWorker II. It doesn't do near as well as my Freuds or my Lietz. Dedicated blades always seem to do a better job (go figure). I have a Lietz 24T rip blade that does a great job and was very reasonable.

If you plan to eventually get dedicated blades and do mostly ripping right now I would get a rip blade and pick up a x-cut blade later. However, a combo blade is nice to have around. My WWII serves me well for rough cuts and general work.

[John Hain]

That blade should do fine for you. I bought the 40 tooth combo blade from amazon in replacment of the stock blade on my Craftsman TS. Well, needless to say, it was a huge improvement. But if I had to do it over, I'd go with the 50 tooth.

[scott spencer]

The LU84 is a good combo blade capable of doing a good job of alot of cuts in a wide variety of materials, but it's a full kerf 1/8" (0.125") blade. Most manufacturers will suggest a thin kerf 3/32" (0.098") blade for saws under 3hp, and I agree with that recommendation. Freud makes an LU83R010 that's the same configuration as a the LU83 in a TK. At this quality the cuts should be comparable to the LU84, but with a faster feedrate and less strain on your motor. Other good choices are the LU86, WWII TK, or the LU88, also available on sale thru Amazon. The Infinity Combo Max and Ridge Carbide TS2000 TK are also excellent choices IMO.

LU86 (http://www.epinions.com/content_227985493636)
LU88 (http://www.epinions.com/content_226312687236)
LU84 (http://www.epinions.com/content_147387551364)
WWII TK (http://www.epinions.com/content_145552674436)

[Tullie Templet]

I just found the LU83 http://www.amazon.com/Freud-LU83R010-10-Inch-Tooth-Combination/dp/B00020JOAA/sr=8-1/qid=1172100062/ref=pd_bbs_1/104-0999559-7428763?ie=UTF8&s=hi. It is a 50 tooth thin kurf combo. Does this look like it will be a better choice for my 10" dewalt portable? Thanks for the quick responses guys.

P.S. Sorry Scott I missed your recomendation on the LU83. This looks like it will be a good choice for me. Does anyone disagree?

[Eric Wong]

I've been using a Woodworker II for several years, and it really is a great blade. However, I have seen some pretty good cuts from Freud and the new DeWalt blades.

Glenn, is it possible you have a WWII that is out of true or has a chipped tooth? Just wondering, since my WWII cuts with amazing smoothness. I even cut a nail in half along the long axis (by accident of course), and the blade was completely unscathed.

One thing about the WWII, however. You really need to send it back to Forrest for sharpening. Local shops don't seem to get it as sharp.

[scott spencer]

Tullie - I just corrected a typo in my initial response...I meant to say LU83 where I typed an "LU84", so "yes", I think the LU83 is a better choice for your portable. Not all will agree, but my experience leads me to use TK's in smaller saws, and many of the manufacturers suggest it.

[Tullie Templet]

One other thing, will I see a big difference between the 50 tooth TK combo as opposed to the 40 tooth TK general purpose. Which would ya'll reccomend for my portable?

[scott spencer]

One other thing, will I see a big difference between the 50 tooth TK combo as opposed to the 40 tooth TK general purpose. Which would ya'll reccomend for my portable?

I'd guess you'll be happy with either. As long as the quality level is comparable, there won't be a huge difference in most tasks. It'll likely boil down to preference and what materials you cut. I've tried several good examples of both and usually get better results from the 40T, but that debate could rage on for weeks! Either way, as others have pointed out, combo and general purpose blades are designed as compromises from a dedicated crosscut blade and a dedicated rip blade, and will do neither task as well as a comparable quality dedicated blade. They should both do a pretty darn good job on most things. If you want the absolute highest performance at each task, you'll want a specialty blade for each type of cut and material.

[Lee Schierer]

I'm a dedicated blade for the type of cut being made person. I advocate separate blades for the best cut. Here's a link to a good deal on some really nice blades that won't break the bank. http://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=50961

[glenn bradley]

Glenn, is it possible you have a WWII that is out of true or has a chipped tooth?

It's been that way since day one. Concerned, I ran side by side tests with other blades changing only the blade and not the setup. I know others here swear by them and they are a really good blade. I'll send it to Forrest one of these days and see if it comes back better. I should've done that right off and pushed the issue of a defect.

[Bruce Wrenn]

I've been using a Woodworker II for several years, and it really is a great blade. However, I have seen some pretty good cuts from Freud and the new DeWalt blades.

Glenn, is it possible you have a WWII that is out of true or has a chipped tooth? Just wondering, since my WWII cuts with amazing smoothness. I even cut a nail in half along the long axis (by accident of course), and the blade was completely unscathed.

One thing about the WWII, however. You really need to send it back to Forrest for sharpening. Local shops don't seem to get it as sharp.When I hit one of those staples that hold skew numbers on the end of a piece of wood with my Forrest WWII, it cost me $52 for new teeth, top grind, and sharpening including shipping. Not exactly what I expected from a $100 blade.

[Eric Wong]

I don't think there are too many blades that wouldn't have some kind of damage from that....but I would have expected better from your Forrest, especially after my experience.

[Nick Clayton]

I'm with Lee on this one. I have had excellent results with Amana blades. If they are too pricey they also have a line called A.G.E that is priced less. I have an A.G.E 24 tooth rip blade and I cannot tell the difference in cut from my regular Amana ripping blade.
http://www.amanatool.com/
http://www.agecuttingtools.com/
http://www.carbide.com/