Resaw King, 3/4" or 1" on my new Bridgewood

[Jameel Abraham]

I'm going to take the plunge and drop some real money on a resaw king for my PBS-440.

Wilke says this saw has a max 1" blade width, but not sure if that's referring to a standard steel blade, or carbide too? Does it make a diff? I'm leaning towards the 1" for better stability.

[Alfred Clem]

I resaw all kinds of wood with my Timberwolf 3/4" 3 tpi blade on my Jet 18" bandsaw. Mahogany, pine, walnut, etc. 1/4" and sometime thinner. I doubt I can resaw to veneer thickness, but the blade and machine do everything I have ever asked of them.

[tom crawford]

I have the resaw king on my Laguna 16 - it is great. There is zero drift. I just run the board along the fence.

Tom Crawford
Selma, Oregon

[Jameel Abraham]

Any thoughts on the 3/4" vs. 1" though?

I've read up on carbide vs steel and price etc. I'm going with carbide. Just wondering if there will be a tension issue with the 1" vs. 3/4"?

[Dan Larson]

Any thoughts on the 3/4" vs. 1" though?

I've read up on carbide vs steel and price etc. I'm going with carbide. Just wondering if there will be a tension issue with the 1" vs. 3/4"?
I think your PBS-440 is essentially the same frame as the Laguna HD series of saws... my LT-18 can properly tension a 1" Resaw King without a problem... so my guess is that you'd be OK going with the 1" blade.

Dan

[Jameel Abraham]

Thanks Dan, that's just the info I was looking for. What tension setting do you dial in on the tension indicator? The 1"?

[Brian Hale]

Hi Jameel!

Hows that Bridgewood working out for you?

For what it's worth, i run a 1" Tri-Master on my MM16 and it does a good job but i'm debating on getting a second/backup blade. The Tri-Master cuts a pretty wide kerf so if you're sawing several boards from a large blank you might want a narrower blade. I keep looking at the 3/4" woodslicer from Highland Hardware, which is about 1/5 the price of my Tri-Master. Their blade gets very high reviews.

Just another option to ponder.....;)

Brian :)

[Jameel Abraham]

Brian, I've just done some basic curve cutting so far. So far so good. I got some cheap blades locally and they are dull already. The resawing blade I bought was just junk. Dull within the first foot and vibrating all over the place after that. I got some super wavy grooves on 6" stock. I've been researching blades, and have decided on some Bi-metals or Timberwolves for curve cutting/all-purpose blade. But I figured I ought to bite the bullet and get a carbide for resawing. It will save me money in the long run. I know I'll want it eventually, and I see no sense in wasting money now. I'm going in with two other guys here, so I'm saving $50. It's a good buy I think. I thought about getting something from Iturra, but the guy is gone everytime I call, no website, and I ordered a catalog like a month ago (even followed up with a call, and still no catalog). They must either be rolling in the dough or going out of business.

You mentioned a wide kerf with the Trimaster. How wide? And is the woodslicer narrower?

[Jim Becker]

Whatever blade you buy for resawing...use it strictly for that...and I mean stricktly. Do not cut even gentle curves with it. You'll maximize it's workable life and the quality of cut for resawing that way.

FYI, I use a 1" TriMaster on my MM16 for resaw...or at least I have been for awhile. But I recently did a very bad thing and forgot to make a trust bearing adjustment when I put it back on the machine and effectively ruined it for critical work while allowing it to bite into the inside lip of the lower door...my bad. Ching...ching...I guess a new one is in order soon.

[Doug Shepard]

... But I recently did a very bad thing and forgot to make a trust bearing adjustment when I put it back on the machine and effectively ruined it for critical work while allowing it to bite into the inside lip of the lower door...my bad. Ching...ching...I guess a new one is in order soon.

Ouch:eek: That's got to hurt.

The MM folks also told me to avoid cutting any green wood with the Tri-Master when I bought mine from them. Apparently it will dull the carbide in a hurry.

[Dan Larson]

Thanks Dan, that's just the info I was looking for. What tension setting do you dial in on the tension indicator? The 1"?
Yeah, I set it to the 1" setting... works well for me at that tension. Might be able to get away with less tension than that, though... I never bothered to experiment.

["Gary Brewer"]

Jameel: If you do follow-up on buying some bi-metals or Timberwolves for your 440 would you let us know ( or me ) how you like them. I am wondering the same for me and my 540. I already have the 1" trimaster and some 1/4" and 3/4" basic steel blades but have been wondering about the bi-metals for the 1/4" to 1/2" range. I am trying to figure out whether to stick with the cheap, go with the midrange cost ( bi-metals ) or wait for a 1/2" carbide blade? I have read some good things about the bi-metals recently.
Gary

[Mike Wilkins]

I have had the ResawKing for about a year, and it is a great addition to my Laguna LT-18. I beleive the Bridgewood series of bandsaws are made by the same firm that manufactures the Lagunas.
By the way: I use the 1" ResawKing blade.

[Jameel Abraham]

I'm planning to order a 1/4" or 3/8" Olson MVP (Mark Duginske's recomend). I'll let you know how I like it. I've decided on the 1" Resaw King. At $150, its way less than the Lenox or TW.