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Jameel Abraham
02-19-2007, 5:11 PM
My new big bandsaw is casting its own shadow on my cutline. So what are you guys doing for light at this spot? Any ideas? I'm thinking something with magnets and a gooseneck.

Michael McCoy
02-19-2007, 5:15 PM
You can rig something up but Woodcraft and even Lowes sells something like this and it's under $20:

http://www.amazon.com/Delta-25-869-Magnetic-Power-Attachment/dp/B0000223AK

David Wilson
02-19-2007, 5:16 PM
Jameel
I use a magnetic lamp from harbor freight.90766-4VGA (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=90766)Costs less than $10.00 and works well. Think I have 4 of them.

Roy McQuay
02-19-2007, 5:44 PM
I also have a few of the Harbor Freight magnetic base lamps and one stays on my bandsaw. Had no problems with them, and I was skeptical.

John Bush
02-19-2007, 5:56 PM
There was an earlier post about adding a transformer to the 220 line coming into the saw to hard wire a 110 line for a mounted light. I haven't done it yet, but I don't have any 110 outlets close to the BS and I don't want more cords lying around the floor. It sound like a good permanent solution. JCB.

Jameel Abraham
02-19-2007, 6:22 PM
There was an earlier post about adding a transformer to the 220 line coming into the saw to hard wire a 110 line for a mounted light. I haven't done it yet, but I don't have any 110 outlets close to the BS and I don't want more cords lying around the floor. It sound like a good permanent solution. JCB.

I'd definitely be interested in that.

Jeff Wright
02-19-2007, 6:27 PM
I'd definitely be interested in that.

My Oneida DC system is 220 but I had my electrician hook up the DC's bag gripper system which runs off of 110 to the DC's motor electrical connection box. It was no big deal; he had it done in five minutes or less. I would think someone who knows what they are doing could do the similar thing with your machine, but I'm no electrician. Have any friends in the business?? If you're like me, DON'T try doing it yourself!

Gary McKown
02-19-2007, 7:09 PM
Little bit odd solution - I bought a propane grill at Lowes two years ago and the deal included a *free* gooseneck magnetic (or clamp-on) LED light. I didn't need it for the grill, but it works as a BS (or drill press) spotlight. Runs off batteries (originals have lasted more than a year) and doesn't throw a great amount of light, but you can spot it right down at the blade or bit. Also moves effortlessly from tool to tool.

glenn bradley
02-19-2007, 7:27 PM
I use the HF lamp mentioned here. It is a little bigger than the Delta but half the price. It articulates as opposed to flexing. Upside - stays put. Downside- doesn't flex.

Eddie Darby
02-19-2007, 7:37 PM
I found a goose neck light fixture that had a long neck and uses 100 watt bulbs. Then i got 4 large rare earth magnets from Lee Valley with the metal cups that help focus the magnetic field and built my own base for the goose neck fixture. It works great!

I even made two small magnetic holders to control the power cord of the light so it's out of the way. The holders are made out of wood and have the plastic clips that electricians use to control wires.

I use this on my Delta 14" bandsaw, so I cut the curve of the front top wheel door into the wood, to match the surface exactly. I was happy with the outcome, considering it worth the extra effort.

Jamie Buxton
02-19-2007, 8:48 PM
On my 220-powered bandsaw, I have a 110-volt work light. It is one of those standard things with a magnetic base and a flexible neck, so it can stick anyplace on the saw. The slightly tricky part is the electrical feed. I bolted a small 220:110 volt transformer on the back of the saw. The transformer has the 110 outlet on it, so the light plugs into it. The 220 side was a power cord with a 220 plug on the end. I cut off the plug, drilled a hole in the saw, and fed the cord into the saw's switch box. It connects on the motor side of the saw's power switch. When I turn the saw on, the light comes on.

If you're comfortable with house wiring, this is a straightforward modification.

"Gary Brewer"
02-19-2007, 9:38 PM
Hi Jameel: There is a lamp that is very very good but also very pricey made by Lee Valley / Veritas. http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=46866&cat=1,43456,43349
If the link doesn't work go to www.leevalley.com (http://www.leevalley.com) and search for "utility lamp".
I saw it mentioned in a woodworking website and it was highly recommended. I also saw it on Lonnie Bird's bandsaw in a FWW video on Ogee bracket feet and on another woodworking geru's video. After having problems with a $20 cheaper lamp I got on sale at Woodcraft for a year I finally bit the bullet and got one of Lee Valley's. It works really well and despite the high cost I have been very happy with it. It is very high quality. It has a long neck and where you place it the lamp stays put. That was one problem with the cheaper one. Also the neck is very long which makes postioning it to an advantageous view point is easy ( a second problem with the cheapie one). It also takes 100 watt bulbs which my old eyes need and has a heat sink buuilt-in so that you don't get burnt is you are close ( a problem with my cheap reflector lamps). I liked it so much that I bought another one. It comes with three types of mounting: magnetic base (which is very strong) and two different types of brackets. You can also buy an optional c-clamp base which I bought and I like it and use a lot. This makes it easly moveable by just pulling up on the base ring and putting it in another base. There is also a lamp similar to the Lee Valley lamp by a company called Danray, I read about it in a woodworking magazine: http://www.danrayproducts.com/store/SnakeArmLamps.cfm. I don't anything about it though. It seemed as expensive as the Lee Valley and comes with only one mounting bracket. FYI
Gary

Jameel Abraham
02-20-2007, 10:13 AM
Gary,

Thanks! I can't beleive I've never seen that one in the LV catalog. That's a nice looking lamp. The Danray looks to be the same lamp. Thanks for the heads up. I'm going to order...

Oh yeah, did you find the 18" LV to be adequate, or do you think the 24" Danray would be better. I have an 18" Bridgewood bandsaw, so the mounting locations are a but farther away than a 14" saw.

James Carmichael
02-20-2007, 10:40 AM
I use a cheap, clamp-on work light. $6 from Home Depot.

Larry Fox
02-20-2007, 10:49 AM
I use one of the Delta lights with the magnetic base shown above. It works ok. I say ok as opposed to great as I find that I bump it and knock it off fairly frequently so I keep a ready supply of lightbulbs around.

Keith Webster
02-20-2007, 11:03 AM
Here is one from Woodcraft. http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=3199

http://www.woodcraft.com/images/Family/web3199.jpg

"Gary Brewer"
02-20-2007, 11:24 AM
Hi Jameel: I have been very satisfied with the length of the lv utility light. I have not needed any longer length. Think about where you would want the lamp and how much length you'll need. I also thought the Danray looked just like the LV so I went out and looked at the manufacturer label on the lv and it says "Moffatt Products, Inc 232 Cessna St, Watertown SD 57201 (800)346-0761 Model #99010" so I figured they must be different manufacturers. If I remember correctly the LV one came with 3 different bases and the Danray didn't ( just one ). The kurled ( sp?) ring on the lamp base to detach the lamp from the base is nice. It works well ( a little stiff in the beginning but quickly loosens up ). This makes it easy to move it around if you use the different bases. I leave one base with the bandsaw and when I want two lights for detail work on my bench I move it and have two good lights. I also had never known lv had this lamp but I saw it highly recommended two different times and after first trying a cheaper one that is nowhere at convenient or effective to use decided it was worth a try. For me it has been a good decision. My eyes really need the better light. When I am doing fine detailed work or bandsawing it helps a lot. Some day I would like to get a third one but not right now. FYI
Gary

Karle Woodward
02-20-2007, 12:24 PM
I have a couple of the HF lights. They work well on my bandsaw and drillpress. I don't think I paid more than $7 for either light. Looks just like the one woodcraft sells for $20+.

Eddie Darby
02-20-2007, 1:41 PM
If you are considering getting this light, I would like to point out that there are different mounting options, one of which is on a "T" track that is available at Woodcraft.com.

http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=4273

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=46866&cat=1,43456,43349

This allows you to use the light for more than just the bandsaw.

Steven Wilson
02-20-2007, 3:48 PM
The best light you can install is a Moffatt lamp. It uses regular 100w bulbs, has many mounting options (c-clamp, mag, screw base) and is designed to be used in a rugged environment. I use to use the little Delta mag light but it's 40 watt and has a tendency to fall off when your machine is rocking (14" bandsaws do rock). I use Moffatt lamps on my lathe, grinder, Tormek, bandsaw, and they work fantastic. The cheapest place I've found them (and a good look at lathe lighting) is http://www.turningwood.com/light_stand.htm

Jameel Abraham
02-20-2007, 5:53 PM
Wow. Great responses! The moffet lights look almost identical to the Danray lights.

Look what else I found: http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/ToolGuide/ToolGuideArticle.aspx?id=28018

Thanks Gary for the followup.

Steven Wilson
02-20-2007, 11:48 PM
Moffatt is the original, great product, good safety options and available. Try http://www.moffattproducts.com. The guards and rubber boot are nice additions to the standard lamp

J. Greg Jones
02-21-2007, 5:36 AM
I have both the Danray (mounted on my bandsaw) and the Woodcraft/Moffatt/Lee Valley (mounted on my drill press). The lights are identical except for the mounting systems. Both are great lights, but there are differences in the mounting systems that may impact your choice. I bought the WC model first (in came in a Moffatt box) and the lamp can swivel on the mount and is removable as someone mentioned so you can buy additional bases (magnetic, clamp, screw-down, etc.) and move it from tool to tool. The potential down side to this system is that with the swivel mount, the lamp can shift position if there is a lot of vibration.

The Danray uses a fixed mounting base, so the above problem is avoided however it is not portable like the WC model, unless you use the magnetic base. I like the WC model on the drill press because it is easier to swing it out of the way, while I prefer the Danray on the bandsaw where it will not shift under vibration. On the bandsaw, I drilled and tapped holes in the saw to mount the bracket and cut the plug and wired the light to the hot side of the bandsaw's switch. The light on the drill press is not wired into the press, so I can remove the light and use it with the magnetic base.

http://homepage.mac.com/jgregjones/.Pictures/Shop/Bandsaw/L1.jpg

http://homepage.mac.com/jgregjones/.Pictures/Shop/Bandsaw/L2.jpg

http://homepage.mac.com/jgregjones/.Pictures/Shop/Bandsaw/L3.jpg

Jameel Abraham
02-22-2007, 9:24 PM
I have a Danray on the way. Looks like I made the right choice.

"Gary Brewer"
02-23-2007, 7:13 PM
HI J. Greg: I just had a question. I have a Moffatt ( lv version ) and there is a steel ball bearing in the lamp mount release ring that fits into half-sphere indents in the lamp mount shaft. I have not had a problem with it shifting or swiveling. When the ring is released to install the lamp base in the mounting base the steel ball is pressed in the half-sphere indent and this prevents any "swiveling" or rotation of the lamp base over the mounting base shaft. Does your Moffatt version mounting base have these indents around the shaft? They are on all three mounting bases that came with the lamp and also on the c-clamp accessory that I bought. I was wondering if you have an older version of the Moffatt or maybe I just have not had that particular problem yet. This might help me with future a purchase. The only problem I have had with the Lee Valley Moffatt lamp is removing the magnetic base from a painted metal surface. It can leave marks because the magnet is so strong. I have put a piece of plastic sheet between the magnetic base and the paint on my band saw. When I get another light I can leave it permanently on the band saw.
Thanks,
Gary

lou sansone
02-23-2007, 9:10 PM
it maybe a little hard to see in the photo, but the factory installed light on my little band saw is a flexible goose neck with a mini spot. it works great

Lou

Jameel Abraham
02-23-2007, 9:17 PM
Now THAT is what I call a bandsaw!

Jake Helmboldt
02-23-2007, 9:41 PM
it maybe a little hard to see in the photo, but the factory installed light on my little band saw is a flexible goose neck with a mini spot. it works great

Lou

Lou, the adjective "little" refers to the light and should precede it, not that BIG HONKIN' SAW:eek: . Is that a 36"? Man that is sweet.

J. Greg Jones
02-24-2007, 6:05 AM
I was wondering if you have an older version of the Moffatt or maybe I just have not had that particular problem yet.

Well, I wonder now if you may be on to something. My Moffatt mounts have a knurled, round groove for the lamp to latch into (see first picture below). Do your mounts look like this one?

Also, the release collar on my lamp has two ball bearings and the collar is plastic (see above picture). I just noticed on the LV Web site that the collar looks like it is aluminum (second picture below). Perhaps the lamp has been upgraded and I got an earlier version. The knurling is just too fine to provide much of a detent for the bearings to "lock" into. However, I must say that the light does stay put in my drill press, and that is the only tool I have used it on thus far. I don't want to sound like I am not happy with it-I am. I just felt that due to the loose fit, perhaps the Danray was a better choice on the bandsaw where it would be mounted permanently.

http://homepage.mac.com/jgregjones/.Pictures/Shop/Bandsaw/LT04.jpg

http://www.leevalley.com/images/item/woodworking/projects/17j3040s11.jpg

Ray Moser
02-24-2007, 6:53 AM
I also have several of the Harbor Freight magnetic base lights. They periodically go on sale for less than $10 and work just fine-I keep one on my Jet bandsaw and one on my DeWalt scroll saw.

lou sansone
02-24-2007, 8:36 AM
Lou, the adjective "little" refers to the light and should precede it, not that BIG HONKIN' SAW:eek: . Is that a 36"? Man that is sweet.

it is a 36" saw.

here is the link to the full photo tour of the saw
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=19846

enjoy

"Gary Brewer"
02-25-2007, 1:10 AM
Greg: Thanks for responding to my question. All three mounts on the LV have half-sphere ( half a ball ) indents that are adjacent to each other around the circumference of the mount cylinder where your's has vertical lines with smaller vertical indents between them. The two steel ball bearings are also on my lamp under the collar and they fit in the half-sphere indents. The release collar on the lv is metal not plastic. That answers the question of why your collar is black in the picture. I put a magnet on my metal collar and it stuck but not very strongly. I would post a picture but because of I've spent all my money on woodworking tools I have not yet bought a digital camera. I need one or two more lamps in my shop and this helps. The Danray and the Moffett from the other company listed can be had with longer necks which is very nice. The lee valley has only the 18 neck. I might call Moffatt to see if what is on the lv is on their longer necked lamps marketed under their name.
Thanks again,
Gary

Steven Wilson
02-26-2007, 9:26 AM
If you go to the Moffatt site and look at the PDF that describes the product line there are a number of connection methods including a lamp with an L bracket that you screw to the frame. They make fixed mount as well as quick relase mount lights.

John Petsche
12-24-2013, 12:13 PM
great bandsaw light ideas, need to install one. Thanks.

Keith Hankins
12-24-2013, 1:36 PM
I use the flexible light from woodcraft. Works great and you can attach anywhere with metal for the magnet. Has led lights and works well.

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2021277/39072/WoodRiver-16-3W-LED-Dual-Power-250-Lumen-Shop-Light-with-Focusing-Head.aspx

Lee Schierer
12-24-2013, 2:06 PM
I have the Delta magnetic base light and it works well. It stays put and gives plenty of light on the cut line.

glenn bradley
12-24-2013, 2:17 PM
Good responses but, the thread is from 2007(?).

Marc Prudhomme
02-25-2014, 9:35 PM
Better late than never

Good responses but, the thread is from 2007(?).

Joe Jensen
02-26-2014, 12:20 AM
I just ordered a AAA LED flashlight on ebay. It is less than 1/2" in diameter and it was $8.85 delivered. I will see how it fits down in the blade guard or along side it. If it's good I'll use just the head and hardwire it to a 1.5V power supply that comes on with my bandsaw. I'll post pics if it works

James Cheever
02-26-2014, 4:31 AM
Another vote for a Moffat light with the magnetic base. You can buy them on Amazon.

Matt Day
02-26-2014, 8:48 AM
Better late than never

That's double funny since you dug this thread up from two months ago!

CPeter James
02-26-2014, 8:58 AM
There these from Ikea: http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/20169658/

Bill Rhodus
02-26-2014, 9:59 AM
Jameel, I saw the post about installing a transformer to reduce the 220 to 110v and agree this is a good way to do this, however, if your supply wiring comes into the machine via a junction box (all of my machines have a box of some sort that the pigtail attaches to) you can pick up one of the two load legs, a neutral, and a ground for the light without installing the transformer. A small in-line breaker rated for the light should be installed on the load wire to the light but this should be done for a transformer feed as well because the breaker feeding the machine will be sized too large to protect the size wires that the light circuit will have. If you don't understand this, have an electrician do it.

Rod Sheridan
02-26-2014, 11:56 AM
Jameel, I saw the post about installing a transformer to reduce the 220 to 110v and agree this is a good way to do this, however, if your supply wiring comes into the machine via a junction box (all of my machines have a box of some sort that the pigtail attaches to) you can pick up one of the two load legs, a neutral, and a ground for the light without installing the transformer. A small in-line breaker rated for the light should be installed on the load wire to the light but this should be done for a transformer feed as well because the breaker feeding the machine will be sized too large to protect the size wires that the light circuit will have. If you don't understand this, have an electrician do it.

That would work, however I've never seen a single phase 240 volt machine that had a neutral............I simply added a control transformer and fuses to mine.......Rod.

Keith Hankins
02-26-2014, 12:45 PM
I've got one of those magnetic led lights works great. I just have to remember to cut it off :)

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2021277/39072/WoodRiver-16-3W-LED-Dual-Power-250-Lumen-Shop-Light-with-Focusing-Head.aspx

John Gornall
02-26-2014, 1:09 PM
This is 2014 and the post started in 2007 - lighting has changed. The Moffatt lights are an aluminium heat sink so you can use a 100 watt bulb. Now you can buy a cool LED bulb instead. And when you knock the magnetic base light off the machine, which I do regularly, the LED bulb will survive. I bought good quality goose neck lamps from a commercial sewing machine shop for about 12 bucks each and added magnetic bases, also have one on a doghole post on my bench.

Tom Clark FL
02-26-2014, 2:50 PM
Here is my simple solution. I screwed a small piece of plywood to the bandsaw table, (in this case a table extension) and just set the light in a hole so it is easy to swivel or position where you want it. I cut off the plug and hardwired it into saw starter switch so when the saw is turned on the light also comes on.

jack forsberg
02-26-2014, 3:08 PM
My eyes are getting bad and i can not see a line with out my readers on. Old age i guess ,if you ask me the only thing golden about the golden years is your---------------------------- never mind.LOL In the last year or so i been looking for vintage machinery lamps with little luck. I have a nice vintage lamp for the Wadkin Lathe and as some may have see my video for the one for the Stenner mortiser one i snagged off a printer saw from the 40s. If you have ever looked looked on Ebay for any of theses old lamps its crazy what people will pay. Even the Delta lamp gets $80 unless your my buddy Larry and then you would still have $78 for a machine. Now iv looked and Iv looked but there very hard to come by now that all the designer think there hot . I got way to many machines that need lamps for and it is just not what i want to spend my money. Its not like I can afford Jonny Grey price points.LOL

that being said some of the lamps can be real cool too and i must say i like the 40s and 50s for style. here are some i think are cool

http://i927.photobucket.com/albums/ad111/tool613/jacko_zps6614d843.jpg
http://i927.photobucket.com/albums/ad111/tool613/jacko2_zps146bb4c4.jpg

I was at lowes(my big box store for home improvement) to picking up some bulbs and I found these clamp on lamps. Not near as nice as the old ones but i just got to see and but there $8 and come with a CSA(canadian safety standard) sticker.
http://i927.photobucket.com/albums/ad111/tool613/jackolantern054_zps59f3318a.jpg

so i had these kicking around the shop and i tried them on/in a few places at the machines. The verdict is the clamp sucks and there was not a practaical place on the machine to clamp it to. That's when it came to me(kind of like a light going off). How hard is it to make a machine lamp? I look at the lamp again for a few seconds and tore it apart.

http://i927.photobucket.com/albums/ad111/tool613/jackolantern057_zpse34879a7.jpg

Most of the hard stuff for a lamp is there i just needed to make an articulated holder i said. Bass would be nice, what do I have?

http://i927.photobucket.com/albums/ad111/tool613/jackolantern058_zps4548655c.jpg

this is what i made on my first attempt
http://i927.photobucket.com/albums/ad111/tool613/jackolantern059_zps9d5e56b4.jpg
http://i927.photobucket.com/albums/ad111/tool613/jackolantern064_zpse33fa4c7.jpg
http://i927.photobucket.com/albums/ad111/tool613/jackolantern063_zps861b5707.jpg
http://i927.photobucket.com/albums/ad111/tool613/jackolantern068_zps83b5c0d8.jpg
http://i927.photobucket.com/albums/ad111/tool613/jackolantern067_zps372feceb.jpg

for the most part it looks Ok but the plastic is rubbing me wrong and i did not like the the tin colour shade so i painted the outside to go with the machine.

http://i927.photobucket.com/albums/ad111/tool613/speedxa151_zps6ccdf8b2.jpg


The problem with making the lights is you need a socket with a screw on the end for a shade with a the switch control at the socket. If i could find some brass ones my machine lamps would look better and i would be rid of the plastic. I looked the net over and found some i found the name of the thread is Uno and found many once i goggled that.

these should be up to it but I was getting very close to the prices i was finding on ebay for the lamps there so i kept on looking.

http://www.shannonlamp.com/3Sockets.jpg http://www.shannonlamp.com/BrassUnoSocketSun2.jpg


http://www.shannonlamp.com/Sockets.jpg

http://www.shannonlamp.com/Uno.htm


see next post

jack forsberg
02-26-2014, 3:09 PM
One of the places i had luck with was the a lamp repair shop. Not to many places like that a round anymore so if you find one there worth a viset. I got these parts for $10 and it came with 2 sockets one of witch i used for version 2.0.

http://i927.photobucket.com/albums/ad111/tool613/001-28_zps33129e53.jpg


this one went on the SpeedXa

http://i927.photobucket.com/albums/ad111/tool613/005-37_zpse8887560.jpg

http://i927.photobucket.com/albums/ad111/tool613/004-36_zps88fa47d3.jpg

http://i927.photobucket.com/albums/ad111/tool613/002-42_zpsb3b9156b.jpg

Garth Almgren
02-26-2014, 3:31 PM
Along those lines, same lamp but with a clamp works really well: http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/80169636/

ken masoumi
02-26-2014, 4:39 PM
I recently bought a FAS clamp light from Ikea and attached it to the guide behind my bandsaw,the good thing about this light (other than the price:$15) is that you can really clamp it tight with the wing nut /clamp combination.


http://www.ikea.com/ca/en/images/products/fas-clamp-spotlight__16597_PE100893_S4.jpg

Myk Rian
02-26-2014, 4:46 PM
Jameel
I use a magnetic lamp from harbor freight.90766-4VGA (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=90766)Costs less than $10.00 and works well. Think I have 4 of them.
Hmm. A drip irrigation kit?

Myk Rian
02-26-2014, 4:47 PM
I browse the Habitat Resale store from time-to-time. Lots of good stuff there.

HANK METZ
02-26-2014, 6:07 PM
I ordered a couple of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Generic-Rotation-Flashlight-Holder-Cycling/dp/B00EPWIIRQ/ref=pd_sim_hi_4

My plan is to glue it to a magnet, and use one of the many free Harbor Freight LED flashlights I have as a task light source. Portable, no rigging for mains required, phenomenal light output, no heat in the face, and adjustable to illuminate point of cut. I'll have to get back to the forum when it comes in and I lash it together though, am anxious to try it out.

Garth Almgren
02-27-2014, 12:48 AM
This is a really old thread from 2007... I've noticed that when you have a bad link on HF's website, it takes you to that drip irrigation kit instead of a "Page could not be found" page. :D

Bill Rhodus
02-28-2014, 5:59 AM
Jameel, I posted earlier concerning utilizing one load leg of the electrical service to supply power to your light and a follow up post by Rod points out the lack of neutral in the 220 v supply. He is absolutely right, you have to pull In a neutral to the light. Don't use the ground as the neutral. Once again, use an electrician if you need to. Also, as to the light, as I have gotten older I have replaced the small work lights on my machines with a ceiling mounted fluorescent light on either side of the machine. This has the added benefit of improving the light through the shop for my ever weakening eyes.

Neil Brallier
02-28-2014, 4:16 PM
If you run a power cable with two hot conductors for the 220, a common conductor, and the requisite ground, you can have both 220 and 110 with one cable feeding two receptacles at the bandsaw cabinet.

My old Delta 14" has a permanently attacked gooseneck light and an additional magnetic so that I can get light on both sides of the blade with lots of flexibility.

Bill McDermott
02-28-2014, 4:42 PM
Lee Valley Magnetic-Mount LED Work Light.
Addresses your bandsaw requirement, and lies there in wait for ad hoc uses.
Even adapts to fit high end workbenches nicely. :)

Terry Wawro
12-03-2017, 11:43 AM
I sold my old bandsaw with the light attached. Thought it was a nice bonus to the buyer and I planned on picking up a new one at Harbor Freight. The joke is on me because they no longer sale them. I'm looking at some LED one on ebay now.

Jim Becker
12-03-2017, 12:33 PM
Old thread, but I personally use a magnetic mount light for this purpose. It's halogen, but if I were buying today, it would be LED.

372767

Bill Dufour
12-03-2017, 1:31 PM
I am using a goose neck with an LED bulb. Note many led bulbs run 120-240 volts. I mounted mine by removing the bar that the holds the blade guides. Drilled and tapped a hole in the top end of the bar. This way the lamp stays aimed at the cut line as the guides are moved up and down.

Erik Christensen
12-04-2017, 12:21 PM
I got a super nova for my lathe and it works so well it spends a lot of time on the bandsaw, with the mag switch it takes longer to hook up the DC hoses than to install & position the light..

https://woodturnerswonders.com/collections/lamps

Brian Holcombe
12-04-2017, 12:47 PM
I mounted a Tolomeo lamp to the wall, it has about a 4’ swing.