M & T Question

[john dennis]

Every so often, like about everyday or so, I cut a tennon slightly smaller or a mortise slightly larger then I should have. What's the best way to resolve a situation like that? I really appreciate any advice I can get.
Thanks all.

[Mike Cutler]

Every so often, like about everyday or so, I cut a tennon slightly smaller or a mortise slightly larger then I should have. What's the best way to resolve a situation like that? I really appreciate any advice I can get.
Thanks all.

If it's going to show, glue some matching material on the tenon and recut it.
If it's not going to show, and you need structural integrity for the joint. I use T-88, a structural epoxy adhesive. It has the gap fillers already in it.

[john dennis]

Is T-88 available at Lowes or HD?

[Mike Henderson]

Every so often, like about everyday or so, I cut a tennon slightly smaller or a mortise slightly larger then I should have. What's the best way to resolve a situation like that? I really appreciate any advice I can get.
Thanks all.
I glue a piece of veneer to one side. Choose the side that still allows your piece to be in the right place. So if you cut the front side of the mortise too close to the edge of the wood, put the piece of veneer on that side of the tenon.

I'll be interested to hear what others do.

Mike

[Mike Cutler]

Is T-88 available at Lowes or HD?

I don't think I've ever seen it at a Home Depot, or a Lowes. I order it online, or get it at the local Woodcraft. It's not a "commonly stocked item" though, so I usually just end up ordering it in advance. Great stuff to keep around at the ready.
It's made by System Three.

There are also Two part epoxy "sticks" They look like a big tootsie roll. You smush the roll together and it makes a substance with the consistency of a milky way bar. Fill the mortise and you can recut the mortise also.
There is a company the makes them in various colors. Their catalog is at work right now.:eek:, :rolleyes: I think "QuikWood" is one trade name.

[Chris Bolton]

I glue a piece of veneer to one side. Choose the side that still allows your piece to be in the right place. So if you cut the front side of the mortise too close to the edge of the wood, put the piece of veneer on that side of the tenon.

I'll be interested to hear what others do.

Mike

Mike's technique is the way that people have been dealing with that problem for a few thousand years now, so I'm going to give him a "I'll second that".

[john dennis]

A few thousand years???? Guess I'm a little slow on the uptake!
Thanks. I'll try that tomorrow. BTW. I did think of that, but it seemed too simple. Go figure.

[pat warner]

"What's the best way to resolve a situation like that?"

X building adjustability in to your tenon AND mortice making jigs.

Proofing your milling: Are all common sticks common? Equal thickness and width?

And a lot of practice and testing on equal sectioned material.

Routs mortices & tenons (http://patwarner.com/)

[Mike Henderson]

John - I've been thinking about your question and wanted to pass along one more thing. I've tried a bunch of techniques to get M&T joints to fit correctly. What I'm presently doing is to cut the tenon a bit "fat" and then trim it to fit with a LN rabbit block plane. I like the LN plane because the blade goes completely across the sole, allowing me to plane into the corner of the tenon shoulder and cheek. I can also turn it on it's side to trim the shoulder.

Shoulder planes work well for shoulders, but not so well on the cheeks - I find it hard to get a smooth flat surface on the cheek with a shoulder plane. I used to just use a large chisel to trim the cheeks - and that works - but not as well as the LN rabbit plane.

And just one more comment - some people think that the rabbit block plane can also be used as a regular block plane but I find it doesn't work well that way. It's too easy to gouge the wood because of the exposed blade, and it's not as safe (you can gouge yourself). But it works well for tenons.

Anyway, just wanted to pass that along.

Mike