NYW Router Station Finished

[Tim Malyszko]

I finally finished my New Yankee Workshop Deluxe Router Station today. It was a fun and practical project that I've been looking forward to using for some time. For the most part, it follows the plans to a tee except for a few enhancements suggested by fellow members:

I used aluminum T-tracks in place of the T-bolts and slots for the fence adjustment and T-tracks on the fence instead of cutting T-slots with the router - I think it looks nicer and now I'm not concerned about durability.
The dust collection was replaced with a 4 “dust collection port and Y-fitting instead of the 2” PVC fitting.
I added 2.5" casters to the bottom to make it more portable.Outside of those two modifications, I trimmed out the router table in Cherry instead of Oak.

The one frustration I had with this project was the drawers. Somewhere I made about a 1/16"-1/8" miscut, which caused some misalignment on the bottom drawers and the drawer glides. I was able to correct this fairly easily, but it still was a pain. In addition, if I were to do it over, I would have attached the drawer guides for the bit drawers after I did a dry fit and marked exactly where the guides should have gone. By not doing this and trusting everything was cut correct, the gaps in between each bit drawer aren't evenly spaced. It amazes me how a 1/16" miscut or mis-alignment can be so irritating. On the left side, I have a slightly larger gap between the taller bottom drawer and the 2nd to bottom drawer and on the right side, a slightly larger gap between the 2nd and 3rd drawer. Since it is a table meant for the shop, the slight imperfection doesn't really bother me, so I did not fix it.

As far as the laminate goes, I chose the particular Formica because Lowe's had the 4x8 sheet on clearance for $11. Again, it's a shop tool, so I wasn't too concerned with how it looks. - more concerned about how it performs In fact, I actually like the way the marble pattern turned out on the final product.

Thanks again for all the suggestions. I am so happy that I went with the 4" dust collection instead of the 2" as specified by the drawings. Who would have guessed that I ended up purchasing a dust collector 3 days after asking the question. I now have enough suction in both the fence and inside the table to suck a tennis ball through a tennis racket. It's so nice to work with MDF and not be covered head-to-toe in MDF dust.:)


If you are considering building a router table, the New Yankee Workshop Deluxe Router Station is a very fun and practical project to take on.

[Tim Malyszko]

Here's a picture of an MDF raised panel I cut with my new Woodcraft Raised Panel set and the new router table. Being that it was the first raised panel I ever made, I was quite pleased with the result.

[Roy Wall]

Tim - that looks great!

Did you "oval out" the holes in the fence bottom (that goes into the double T tracks)......to give some "wiggle room adjustment" when positioning the fence?

[Tim Malyszko]

Tim - that looks great!

Did you "oval out" the holes in the fence bottom (that goes into the double T tracks)......to give some "wiggle room adjustment" when positioning the fence?

I did oversize the holes a bit to provide some wiggle room.

[Jim Becker]

A fine job, Tim!

[Bruce Page]

That's a great looking table Tim. You will get years of enjoyment out of it.

[Luke McFadden]

Man, this is the 3rd one of these I've seen today that looks great! My router will be in this week, and I'm already itching to build a table for it.

How much did it end up costing you all together (if you don't mind me asking?)

L

[Chris Bolton]

Let the sawdust fly. The table looks good and I'm sure that the MDF raised panel won't be the last. The amazing Karnak predicts a few raised panel cherry, no wait, oak, no wait walnut ..... who knows what the future will bring.

[Dewayne Reding]

Looks great Tim. I'm a couple days behind you and plan to borrow some of your modifications. I've held off on cutting the DC holes. I have to figure out how to use four inch DC, and still be able to shove it closer to the wall so it won't be in my walkway all the time.

Luke

Cost can vary with materials selected of course, but maybe you can get it built to Norm specs for under $200. That would not include a fancy aluminum router insert though. Project takes roughly two sheets of high quality plywood, and a couple sheets of MDF/cheaper plywood, trim, drawer slides, hinges, router power switch, DC etc.

[Doug M Jones]

Looks great Tim,
After reading posts on the creek for several weeks, I am putting off high end purchases of tools for a while while I work on projects with what I have. I think building one of these would be a good skill building project and if it turns out less than perfect is is a tool that few will see.

BTW, I like the color of the top.:)

[Jim Dunn]

Real nice Tim. I might suggest that you divide up the dust shut off controls. You may want to freehand on the top and not need dust control at the fence of it's off the table.

Is that Bush stadium in your avatar?

[Mike Hill]

Tim: A really good looking router station and I am sure it will be one of the better assets in your shop. I know mine is! I have the same problem with my 4" dust collection you are addressing. The 4" fitting on the back makes mine stick out from the wall. If you find a reasonable solution, let us all know.
Mike

[David Cramer]

Looks great Tim! Nice Wilsonart/Formica covering. I do any and all projects with laminate that I can. It allows things to slide more easily and it takes a long, long time to wear out the top coating. I'm sure that router table is going to be involved in alot of projects you make over the years. Well done!

Dave

[Tim Malyszko]

Man, this is the 3rd one of these I've seen today that looks great! My router will be in this week, and I'm already itching to build a table for it.

How much did it end up costing you all together (if you don't mind me asking?)

I ended up spending just under $300 for the materials - plywood, MDF, Large Router Plate Insert from Rockler, T-tracks, On/Off Switch, Cherry (leftovers from another project), plexiglass front, Formica sheet for the top, casters and dust collection. My buddy bought a pre-made router table around Christmas from Rockler for just over $1200, which included a PC 7518 router and lift, but it doesn't have any storage capacity and no where near the dust collection I have with my $300 hand-made router table. Even if I upgraded to a PC 7518 and lift, I still would have come out spending less than $1000. If you have the tools and the time, making one is the way to go.


Real nice Tim. I might suggest that you divide up the dust shut off controls. You may want to freehand on the top and not need dust control at the fence of it's off the table.

Is that Bush stadium in your avatar?

Good point about dividing up the dust chute controls for freehand work. I'll pick up some fittings to do this next time I'm at Rockler or Woodcraft

That is the old Busch Stadium in my avatar and was taken in 2005. My wife works for KPMG (one of the big 4 accounting firms) and they have 4 tickets in the first row right behind home plate. We were lucky enough to get them one night and this was a great picture opportunity since I could get the entire outfield in the background.

They still have the 4 tickets in the new Busch stadium, but we haven't been able to use them yet.

Thanks for all the kind replies.

[Gary Warren]

Could you not sacrifice one of the smaller drawers on either side by making them a false front and then exit the 4" port out to the side. These drawers are so small I suspect you would not miss the capacity. As an alternative, just shorten the lowest small drawer and vent the 4" out behind the shortened drawer still out to the side. Just a thought as I am getting ready to build one of these too. I do like your modifications.

[Dewayne Reding]

Could you not sacrifice one of the smaller drawers on either side by making them a false front and then exit the 4" port out to the side. These drawers are so small I suspect you would not miss the capacity. As an alternative, just shorten the lowest small drawer and vent the 4" out behind the shortened drawer still out to the side. Just a thought as I am getting ready to build one of these too. I do like your modifications.

Gary

That's exactly what I am considering. I am committed to the leftside drawers. Two 1/2 and one 1/4 drawer. I now have storage for almost 100 router bits. I am thinking that is about good enough. And how big a tragedy would it be if I ended up having to store a few elsewhere in the little cases small bit sets often come in?

For the right side storage, I'm thinking power cords, DC exit, and maybe even enough room left for one or two of my smaller router accessories. That still leaves the large bottom drawers for spare routers, jigs and stuff.

[glenn bradley]

Dewayne, I did not make this cabinet but on mine I recessed the back of the router enclosure portion of the cabinet to allow clearance for fittings. Now just my flex come out the back but I could have just as easily taken it out the side.

[Mike Goetzke]

Could you not sacrifice one of the smaller drawers on either side by making them a false front and then exit the 4" port out to the side. These drawers are so small I suspect you would not miss the capacity. As an alternative, just shorten the lowest small drawer and vent the 4" out behind the shortened drawer still out to the side. Just a thought as I am getting ready to build one of these too. I do like your modifications.

That's what I did, but, out of necessity because mine is in the TS wing:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v212/mbg/Unisaw%20Cabinet/IMG_0593_2_1.jpg

[Mike Weaver]

Excellent work!

I may use some of your modifications when I build my router table. :D

Thanks for sharing.

-Mike

[Don Bullock]

Great job Tim. Thanks for sharing your ideas. That's definately something on my "must do" list.

[Dewayne Reding]

Tim

Your thoughts on a NYW w/side exit? The diverter panel would potentially have to tilt to the right instead of rearward. Does your DC work perfect now? Or do you occasionally get some buildup of shavings that need help sliding down to the port? I'm going to be using my Delta 1 1/2 HP for now.

Glenn

The recessed hookup might even be a better solution. My opinon is easily swayed this morning. :) I think I'll leave the holesaw idling until you guys finish posting.

[Tim Malyszko]

Tim

Your thoughts on a NYW w/side exit? The diverter panel would potentially have to tilt to the right instead of rearward. Does your DC work perfect now? Or do you occasionally get some buildup of shavings that need help sliding down to the port? I'm going to be using my Delta 1 1/2 HP for now.

Glenn

The recessed hookup might even be a better solution. My opinon is easily swayed this morning. :) I think I'll leave the holesaw idling until you guys finish posting.

I have a Delta 50-760 1200 CFM dust collector and it does a fantastic job with the setup installed on my router table. I get a little bit of dust build-up on the plexiglass, but that seems to be from static more so than anything else. Since it does such a good job with this setup, I'd be hesitant to modify the dust collection location. In addition, I prefer the back dust collection port since it stays out of the way and I keep it pulled away from the wall anyway since I store my plywood sheets behind it and it gives me room to joint longer boards on my jointer just to the right of the router table.

As an example, when I have the door open and turn the DC on, the DC suction will pull the door closed once its about at a 30 degree angle from the door. In addition, when I made the MDF raised panel, there was virtually no dust on top of the router table or in the surrounding area.

[Dewayne Reding]

It sounds like your DC works excellent. I wish I had unlimited room. Having the station sticking out from the wall more than an inch or two is a big deal in my tiny WW room. I guess I'll ponder it more today before I decide. In any event, don't take this discussion as a knock on your router station. Not at all. I didn't mean to jack your thread.

[Tim Malyszko]

It sounds like your DC works excellent. I wish I had unlimited room. Having the station sticking out from the wall more than an inch or two is a big deal in my tiny WW room. I guess I'll ponder it more today before I decide. In any event, don't take this discussion as a knock on your router station. Not at all. I didn't mean to jack your thread.

I don't take any offense to the discussion. The whole purpose of posting it is to share ideas and to give others the opportunities to find improvements. Good luck with yours.