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Jim Becker
02-18-2007, 10:25 PM
One of the items on my list for the addition is a small hall table for the new foyer. My thoughts around this have been "relatively narrow, a slight bow front, simple Shaker-esque design and contrast between the top and the supporting structure." Some may recall that I was gifted an assortment of "leftovers" from my cabinetmaker neighbor last year and it was to that material that I turned while looking for something to make this table out of.

At first, I had selected a piece of mahogany, but noticed what I thought at first to be a wide ash board...it was that light in color. So I pulled it out and found it actually to be white oak. Now, I don't normally "do oak" in my furniture, but this is a really nice board and with a contrasting base in mind, about half of it was perfect for this project. (The other half has some discolorations that wouldn't be best on a table top) So I started out by marking off for a quick cross cut of this 11" wide board.

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And on to said cross cut at the saw. Because the miter gage is "extendable", it provides full support even for a long board like this.

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Then a quick straight-line rip to get the "back" of the board ready to act as a reference surface for cross cutting to actual length.

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I took the board back to the bench and looked at it carefully again. This will be a 36" wide table cut from a piece about 48" or so wide. I want the "best of the board" for that top. Once I made my decision, it was back to the saw to trim the better end "square"--it happened that the "best of the board" started at the end of one side already there.

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Finally, the board was flipped so that the reference edge remained on the miter fence and it was cross cut to its final 36" wide.

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Jim Becker
02-18-2007, 10:26 PM
As I intend this piece to have a bow front, it was time to set up for the curve. After marking out the extents on the sides as well as at the center point, the board was clamped to the bench with hold-fasts and a flexible strip of wood was used to draw out the curve. (This is a progressive curve when created this way, unlike an ellipse, etc.)

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Of course, the next step would be to cut said curve. So I did at the bandsaw. Gentle curve. Big blade. Smooth cut, for the most part.

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Ah, a bit of Neander work with the low-angle block plane brought the sawn edge to "smooth" and right to the line. This operation was done in halves to insure that the cuts were "down hill" to avoid grain problems.

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While finish sanding would happen later, I hit the whole piece with 80 grit to remove some roller marks from a necessary very light pass through the planer to remove some "stuff".

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The off-cut was also sanded the same....it will be used to test any finishing options I may consider for the top later on. Keeping it sanded the same as the real top means it will be a good reflection of what may come to pass when "all the stuff" is applied in the end.

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Jim Becker
02-18-2007, 10:26 PM
Because of the bow front, I decided to create a template in MDF that exactly matched the white oak top. Not only am I doing layout on it for the aprons and legs, I can also use it to create a clamping form should I decide to try my hand at a bent lamination for the front apron.

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I was just telling Professor Dr. SWMBO that I originally intended to use some nice purple heart to build the base, but discovered that the board that would be appropriate for the aprons wasn't purple heart...it's red-heart. Not gonna work for me! So, it will be a painted base. I hit my poplar inventory for appropriate material...a little mineral discoloration would be no problem here.

Off to the jointer to get 'em flat and one edge square.

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One of the pieces I originally picked out had some unfortunately defects in it, so I grabbed another hunk of thick stock, flattened it, straight-lined the edge and then got it on the planer to get it close to the same thickness as the other pieces already being worked.

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Within a short period of time, I had four nice, square 1 1/8" piece of leg stock ready for cross cutting to length and tapering the next time I get out to the shop to work on this project.

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Before closing down for the day, I took a few minutes to rip some 3/4" stock from the rack for the back and side aprons.

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I'm still considering how I want to build the front apron, but that will have to wait until next weekend. The good news is...I have a Creeker Visit planned for this week...perhaps I'll get some advise from a couple of kewel, sawdust-breathing dudes on the subject while we enjoy some food and refreshments together. ;)

lou sansone
02-19-2007, 5:02 AM
nice tutorial. I am so lazy when it comes to taking photos of what is going on in my shop. right now it is a massive cherry dining room table that takes 2 strong guys just to pick the top up. the slider does make it a lot easier to build though. thanks for sharing with all of us

lou

Art Mulder
02-19-2007, 6:54 AM
What's wrong with redheart? Is it just the colour?

Hmm, I know that purpleheart gradually fades with time and turns more brownish/purple. But I have no idea what happens to the red in redheart over time.

But the painted base will look nice also.

Jim Becker
02-19-2007, 9:20 AM
What's wrong with redheart? Is it just the colour?

Nothing "wrong" with it...but I don't want three different colors in this project. I have one 4/4 board of the redheart--enough for aprons, but not enough material or thickness for the legs. The thick stock is purple heart. So a painted base is where it's going!

John Miliunas
02-19-2007, 9:37 AM
Sheeesh...I can't help but wonder what the heck you would do w/o that fancy, dancy slider of yours?! :eek: Nice progress and thanks for the step-by-step, Jim! :) :cool:

David Cramer
02-19-2007, 12:49 PM
You smart guys kill me!! Nice progress and thanks for posting. That baby is sure coming in handy now. Jim, that is my drool tool, er dream tool. Good for you and it is great to see you already getting so much use out of it.
In reference to another thread, I don't drink or smoke either, or heck, I don't even buy clothes if I don't absolutely positively have to (I like the 10 year lived in feel!!). I feel the same way and am saving my pennies for a "madmoney" purchase one day. No, my uncle is not that Jim Cramer.

Is that kerosene heater your only source in your Pennsylvania shop? Just curious, that's all. I am eluding to moisture/condensation on your cast iron machinery. I had that problem a few years back until I got a natural gas furnace.

Again, nice progress on the hall table and thanks for sharing the progress step by step.

Dave

glenn bradley
02-19-2007, 12:59 PM
Thanks for the pics and dialog Jim. Do you get one of your 'assistants' to take the shots or do you use a timer? More on track; I love little hallway / sofa tables. The layout of my house ironically does not yield one decent location for one. Oh well, I guess the LOML will get something else for her place.

Don Bullock
02-19-2007, 1:16 PM
Jim, thanks for the tutorial. It looks like you're finally getting to use that new "toy," errr woodworking tool, on an actual project. I'm glad to see that you are enjoying it.

John Schreiber
02-19-2007, 4:56 PM
Jim,

Thanks for the walk through. It's like reading a magazine article, we get to learn how your new slider is used and how your table is made, plus I can ask questions.

How did you use the batten to mark the curved front? When I have tried that, the curve comes out asymmetrical or the batten moves while I'm trying to draw a line. It looks like you've got it held in place with two nails and some finger pressure. Is there more to it?

Tim Martin
02-19-2007, 5:22 PM
And on to said cross cut at the saw. Because the miter gage is "extendable", it provides full support even for a long board like this.


Hi Jim, nice photos. What do you mean by extendable?

When you are cross cutting that board, is there any fence supporting the long off-cut on the right hand side?
There is a real risk that when cutting the board that it will pinch the front of the blade as it nears the end of the cut, causing all sorts of fun:( to occur. The risk increases when the timber becomes heavier and is more bowed or twisted.
Any thing with an off cut of 36" or longer, I would be using the dock saw.
Just my experienced opinion.

Any particular reason for no overhead guard?

lou sansone
02-19-2007, 5:56 PM
Hi Jim, nice photos. What do you mean by extendable?

When you are cross cutting that board, is there any fence supporting the long off-cut on the right hand side?
There is a real risk that when cutting the board that it will pinch the front of the blade as it nears the end of the cut, causing all sorts of fun:( to occur. The risk increases when the timber becomes heavier and is more bowed or twisted.
Any thing with an off cut of 36" or longer, I would be using the dock saw.
Just my experienced opinion.

Any particular reason for no overhead guard?

I have the same saw, so I will chime in.... the miter unit has a telescoping fence setup that allows the lefhand side of it to be extended. on the tip of that extension is a little ledge that the wood can rest on. for single small boards like Jim is cutting it is fine. if you're cutting any large panels, then you hook up the cross cut fence and table. The mm miter unit is very nice and is one of the great features of the saw that is part of the standard package ( with mm you don't get optioned to death ).
Lou

Tim Martin
02-19-2007, 7:09 PM
I have the same saw, so I will chime in.... the miter unit has a telescoping fence setup that allows the lefhand side of it to be extended. on the tip of that extension is a little ledge that the wood can rest on. for single small boards like Jim is cutting it is fine. if you're cutting any large panels, then you hook up the cross cut fence and table. The mm miter unit is very nice and is one of the great features of the saw that is part of the standard package ( with mm you don't get optioned to death ).
Lou

Hi Lou, I understand regarding the left hand side, see attached pic for my explanation.

I'm not attacking Jim's safety protocol, but just speaking from experience.

I was doing the same thing as Jim once upon a time, except the board was a 2" x 9" board of Cherry and was a little bowed. Nearing the end of the cut, the board started to bounce and shudder and whacked my hand (no damage done) so I immediately pulled back and finished the cut by hand. I knew this wasn't a good idea to start with, but the there was no dock saw available at the time.

Nice shop by the way Jim, especially the Forrest of Bessey.;)

Jim Becker
02-19-2007, 9:28 PM
Tim, the board was fully supported for more length than was cut off...that's a very wide angle shot which makes it look longer than it was. The action when using the slider is so smooth that the board just drops. I wouldn't do this with anything that wasn't previously flattened at the jointer however, unless it was near-perfect. Twisted or bowed stock would be a bad idea for something with a long overhang like that. Lou covered the miter gage description pretty good, but I'll try to add some pictures next round to illustrate how it's set up. And I have another near-term project on tap that will allow me to demonstrate the "big" cutting table since it will involve some sheet goods.

David, most of the time, I don't use the Kero heater, but we've had a bad cold snap lately and the electric radiant heaters were not enough to make for a comfortable work environment. I've never had a rust problem on any tool, however...I just use regular furniture paste wax (the same can I've had for about 7 years now) and treat them about twice a year.

Glenn, I use the timer in my camera to take the shots. I pre-position it and set it up and then click the shutter when I'm ready to do something. Rarely are any shots posed...they are live. Those few times when they are not...it's because I forgot the shot.

John, to mark the curves, I calculate the endpoints and the extent of the curve at the center and pencil them in. I then put a nail in the scrap boards on either side of the workpiece such that they allow the thickness of the flexible wood I'm using to accomodate the marks...in this case, I was using a piece of poplar that was more or less 1/4" square. The nails support the flexible edge as you bend it down to the stopping point. I do that with my left hand as I write with my right, as it were. Once the curve is bent, a few quick swipes of the pencil completes the task. If you use a stable piece of wood with no defects and straight grain, it theoretically should bend evenly and with symetry. I certainly didn't measure it, but the curve appears to be quite regular to me. But no matter...it wouldn't be noticable, IMHO, if it were off a little...yet another reason to lay out the aprons, etc., on the scrap duplicate of the actual top.

Jim Becker
02-25-2007, 9:49 PM
Well, it was back to work on the hall table this weekend and although I had limited time in the shop (it was my week for swimming and karate duty), much progress was made. In fact, by the end of the next five posts, the table will be at a nearly ready to finish state!

We start off this "episode" with a shot of the form that will be used to make the bent lamination for the front apron. You will recall that I made an exact duplicate of the top out of MDF last weekend to do layouts on and that piece, in turn, becomes the form with the addition of some clamping blocks arranged along a line that represents the back side of the apron. Some wax was applied to the surface of the MDF where the lamination would "live" during glue-up to insure it would not stick to the form.

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The lamination was made from 5 plys of poplar re-sawed and planed to some thickness or another that coincidentally ended up with a 3/4" thick apron. (Yes, I really did guess at this...frankly the exact thickness didn't matter so why measure or do math? :) ) Titebond III was dribbled onto the pieces and spread quickly with a stick of wood, getting the best coverage I could muster. This was repeated on each layer as needed. Please note that this is not the best way or glue to do laminations, but I was using what I had on-hand. Finally the stacked layers were put on the form, arranged so they were centered, tamped down so they were all at about the same height and then clamped to dry.

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While that assembly was set aside to dry overnight, I did some final sizing of components...the first being the rear apron cut to "precisely" 31 1/2".

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All four 1 1/8" square legs required two tapered faces. After measuring one up to determine the start point for the taper and the end point that would result in a 3/4" square bottom, I tacked some 1/4" MDF scrap to my "slider sled" with a pinner. This makes it easy to remove the strips with no damage to the sled after the project is completed. (I plan on making an adjustable tapering jig someday in my copious free time... :rolleyes: )

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And, of course, I finished out the night cutting the tapers on all five legs. (Yes, that was not a typo...umm....'had to make another leg due to, umm...well...operator error? :o )

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Jim Becker
02-25-2007, 9:50 PM
Well...it's morning already! (And it wasn't a fun morning due to, umm...some child behavior...so it was very nice to get back out in the shop)

The first task of the day was to un-clamp the lamination and see if it worked or if I had to punt. He scores. Very minor spring-back and not material to the project. The edges were pretty even and only required a single very light pass over the jointer to clean them up.

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I made a little change to the clamping jig to provide cut lines for the ends of the apron so they could be cut flush. (This is another pocket screw project...time is of the essence and I just don't have enough of it to play around with mortise and tenon, etc.) My original intention was for these cuts to be the final cuts, but after the fact, I have to re-brand them as rough cuts.

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Honestly, I don't own an appropriate saw to make a 3 1/2" cut like this accurately. My Adria dovetail saw will not cut that deep and the flush cutting saw I used wiggles more than jello on a plate on the patio in a major earthquake. A little paring got things close, but not at all to my liking for a clean joint at the apron. We'll revisit the ends in a moment.

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After un-clamping, I put the apron between some dogs with a little support in the center and gave it a good sanding to clean things up. There was a little glue and a few minor marks from the glue-up process...they went away.

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As I mentioned, I wasn't happy with the clean-cut of the ends and with that slight amount of relaxing after the clamps were removed, I had a little bit of material to work with. So I constructed a jig to hold the apron in the proper orientation for trimming the ends cleanly and completely square at the table saw. Screws from the "back" are holding the workpiece to the center support and scrap plywood provides the base.

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Jim Becker
02-25-2007, 9:50 PM
With the apron/jig combination held tight to the miter gage, one end is cut and then the other after flipping the jig around.

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The end result, before releasing from the jig looks like this.

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At this point, all the components, excepting one center brace that needs to be sized during assembly, are cut and ready to go. Each of them was sanded with fresh 220 paper...by hand and quickly as this base will be painted.

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As part of the sanding process, all the edges were "broke" with some quick strokes of 320. This is actually an important pre-finishing step as any edges that are "sharp" can cause problems with finish flow and integrity.

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And then we move on to assembly. Here, I'm putting the rear apron between the two back legs. The apron is supported by 1/8" thick strips to hold it off the table and provide a shadow line.

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Jim Becker
02-25-2007, 9:50 PM
As you can see from this picture, I should have assembled the short sides first...

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The front apron was installed with glue and pocket screws just like the other three apron pieces. The curve is so gentle, that there was no problem putting it into the pocket screw drilling jig (Kreg K2 in my case) as long as the pressure on the clamp wasn't cranked.

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At this point, a center stretcher was installed (after measuring between the back and front aprons and cutting it to size) and two blocks were installed to provide a way to mount the table top after finishing. The latter were cut at the band saw after making a paper template using the assembled base as the pattern. This is the end result.

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With the base assembled, some final considerations needed to be paid to the table top. After a lot of thought, I felt that this piece demanded an edge treatment. I don't normally do that, preferring simple straight edges with just the corners broken for "comfort". But this table just wasn't working for me with the blunt edge. So I decided a simple ogee would be the right change after playing with some MDF scrap at the router table. Once the setup was assured, the top was profiled.

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Of course, once you do an edge treatment like this, you kick up the sanding work quite a bit. And this is absolutely a hand sanding job...you need the contour smooth (especially on the end-grain) and also need to break the sharp corners. Here, I'm working on one end with some fresh abrasives.

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Jim Becker
02-25-2007, 9:50 PM
The contour on the front edge was a little easier to sand, but still tedious. I also needed to blend in a very slight "slip" at the end made while routing the edge treatment.

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So...here, you can see the form of the base including the bow-front on the apron.

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Here again from the same angle with the top set in place.

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And this is the table nearly ready for finishing. I have a little remediation to do at the base of one back leg and a little touch-up sanding. Otherwise...it's good to go. And you know what? I like it. I think it will be very happy when its new home gets built this year...and it will be the perfect place to set some keys or the mail when you come in the new front door.

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Speaking of finishing...remember that off-cut from the top? Here it is again being used as planned to test out some finishing ideas. There are two areas dyed with my "brew that keeps on living in the finishing cabinet) and two areas that are color-free. One area of each also got an application of BLO. All were top coated with de-waxed blond shellac. The back side of the piece has just water borne acrylic. Although I originally thought that I'd add color to the top, based on my experimentation, the top will just get the shellac and then be further clear-coated with the water borne acrylic. The oil had exactly zero affect on this oak. (which by the way, turns out to be a light toned red oak, rather than white as I originally thought it to be) The oak with the shellac has a very nice tone that will go well with the painted base...which I still need to pick a color for...but that's for another day.

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Neil Clemmons
02-25-2007, 10:40 PM
Great progress, Jim.

On the finish, will you use 1 # shellac and then a sprayed poly acrylic? What are you planning for the base?

Thanks for the detailed step-by-step.

Nice work -

Neil

Jim Becker
02-25-2007, 10:44 PM
Neil, I'll likely brush the shellac as I plan on doing a few coats, sanding back between them to fill the pores before moving on to the top coats. #2 cut. I may do the same on the base to provide a better surface for the paint. I haven't decided on what paint, but may try the SW Pro Classic product that several of our resident pros have given kudos too.

John Miliunas
02-25-2007, 10:59 PM
Lookin' real good, Jim! Don't know exactly what it is but, I enjoy doing bent laminations, even as big of a pain as they are! :rolleyes: Weird, I guess. You done good on that. As far as squaring up the ends on your apron, you were just looking for another excuse to use the slider! :D Nice job, Jim. :) :cool:

Nick Clayton
02-26-2007, 7:13 AM
Jim that is a great looking table. One question, considering the shaker style did you consider using milk paint on the base? Can't wait to see the final product.

Ron Brese
02-26-2007, 8:03 AM
Jim, I used the SW Proc Classic on my own kitchen cabinets and I was quite pleased with it. I thinned it about 10% with bottled water and it sprayed quite well with a conversion gun. I bought the semi-gloss sheen and it flattened even a bit more after being thinned with water, so you may want to consider that when you buy the paint.

Ron

Jim Becker
02-26-2007, 8:58 AM
One question, considering the shaker style did you consider using milk paint on the base?

Yes, it's under consideration.


I used the SW Proc Classic on my own kitchen cabinets and I was quite pleased with it. I thinned it about 10% with bottled water and it sprayed quite well with a conversion gun. I bought the semi-gloss sheen and it flattened even a bit more after being thinned with water, so you may want to consider that when you buy the paint.

Thanks for the tip...good to know as I suspect this product may get some use over time, even if not on this project. But I'm thinking seriously about trying it on this table. I need to do a field trip to the SW store during my daily lunch foraging and check it out.


I enjoy doing bent laminations,

But we know all about you, John...you're unique! :eek: :D

Matt Meiser
02-26-2007, 9:40 AM
Looks good. Reminds me of one from Thos. Moser.

Jim Becker
03-18-2007, 9:58 PM
It's been a few weeks since I got to work on this project due to business travel, family needs and the cold...but after wrapping up another project today (coming soon to a thread near you... :) ), I got started on the finishing process for the hall table...and the parts from the cherry mirror that have also been patiently waiting for a good shellac-ing... :D

I'm using Sealcoat as a primer/sealer for the base prior to the acrylic color coats and the shellac is also being used to add a little tone to the oak top prior to top coating with water borne acrylic.

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And here I do a little sanding with 320 to smooth things out on the base before a second coat of shellac goes on.

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So, ok...this wasn't all that exciting, but it's at least some progress! It would have been nice to get more done this weekend, but snow/ice removal got a bit of my time as did visiting a prospective summer camp for the younger. And, of course, that "other" project...something for the shop. ;)

Charles Jackson III
03-18-2007, 10:24 PM
nice table.

Joe Mioux
03-18-2007, 11:00 PM
There is no way that you have had your new saw for an entire month!?

Where does time go?

Joe

Mark Singer
03-18-2007, 11:19 PM
Jim,
Excellent...nice photos...great progress ...excellent looking table...I really like the shape...very classic!

Jesse Thornton
03-19-2007, 12:26 AM
Thanks for the step by step Jim! Besides being fun and educational, it's also a good reminder for me to take pictures as I move through the stages of my projects.
The table looks great. I look forward to seeing the finished result.

Ron Fritz
03-19-2007, 7:40 PM
Jim, thanks for sharing. Your table is turning out very nicely.

John DeVan
03-19-2007, 7:51 PM
Wow, ... That's some great work!

John Timberlake
03-19-2007, 7:53 PM
Nice progress on the table. Thanks for the intermediate steps. Can't wait to see the finished product.

Dave Shively
03-19-2007, 8:46 PM
Hey Jim nice pictorial so far on this project. I look forward to seeing the finished product!

Dave

Jim Becker
04-29-2007, 9:36 PM
It's been awhile since I posted about this hall table project...weather, work and whatever kept me away from "final finishing" until today. I am generally pleased with the project and it was a nice introduction to what I'll call "informal bent lamination". The cost was also quite attractive...nearly nothing outside of the cost of finishing materials since the oak for the top was given to me by my cabinetmaker/artist neighbor and the base is built from poplar off our property that was harvested back in 2000. I did buy a quart of BM acrylic to finish the base...

Speaking of which, I love the color. I'm not overwhelmed by the product, however...major thick and no matter what I did, I couldn't eliminate brush marks. I even sanded it back once. The last coats are much better as I used a "virgin brush" and worked it carefully.

At any rate, this project is completed. I'll post a picture now taken outdoors and will post another one sometime in the next year when it moves into the addition...which is still in permitting.

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Don Bullock
04-29-2007, 10:49 PM
Great design Jim. When you said you were painting the base I wondered why. Now that I see how nicely the painted base sets off the wood top, I see why you made that choice. It's beautiful.

Corey Hallagan
04-29-2007, 11:22 PM
Very nice Jim. It turned out great. I would agree that oak board made a fantastic top for the table.

Corey

Martin Shupe
04-30-2007, 12:21 AM
Nicely done, Jim.

Alan Tolchinsky
04-30-2007, 12:16 PM
Jim, Thanks for sharing this project with us. I like the contrast between the oak top and the base. Nice job!

Jeffrey Makiel
04-30-2007, 12:40 PM
Lookin' good! Well done!
-Jeff :)

Mike Wilkins
04-30-2007, 3:41 PM
Beautiful table and thanks for the tutorial. Nice intro into bent lamination also. I have used Titebond III for one bent lam project and the results were better than expected.
One question regarding the MM slider. What is the length of your shop?? Since you have the 8' slider, I am wondering how much infeed/outfeed space is needed to keep from bumping into things. I am in the planning/dreaming stages for an upgrade from my 1964 Rockwell/Delta Unisaw and was wondering about this. Thanks.

Jim Becker
04-30-2007, 5:18 PM
One question regarding the MM slider. What is the length of your shop?? Since you have the 8' slider, I am wondering how much infeed/outfeed space is needed to keep from bumping into things.

The total infeed/outfeed/footprint necessary for the 8.5' slider is about 19'. I placed the machine with that in mind and just need to wheel the drum sander elsewhere when I'm ripping sheet stock. Outside of that, I have more space in the shop now. (when the big outrigger is off the wagon which is most of the time) My shop dimensions are about 21' x 30' minus the stairwell up, lumber storage rack and the DC/compressor closet.