How do I fix this?

[Chris Jenkins]

I am working on a box project right now and I have ran into these two problems. I figure I should address them before I start sanding and getting ready for finishing.

1. Obviously the grain chipped out on this dovetail key. Is there any decent filler that will support a square corner? This divot is deeper than it may look.

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2. here the wood slipped a bit when I was running the boards throught the router when making the lock miter joint and now I have a pocket. Pretty much the same issue as before? Any suggested filler for this one?

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I plan on using Zinsser Amber Shellac as the finish for this project I am hoping it will make the maple and cherry pop. I'm not sure what types of filler are effected by alcohol based finishes.

[stevo wis]

One possibility might be to cut back 1/8 or so on both sides of the corners and add a strip across the grain. A contrasting wood might look ok.
stevo

[Jim Becker]

Filling with wood matched to grain and color is always the best, most invisible fix. No commercial filler is going to "disappear" and most actually show up more and "highlight" the, umm...boo-boo.

[Chris Jenkins]

Jim, any product you suggest here? I believe I have already have some off the shelf Minwax filler, but I am not sure of the colors. Is this product worth using or should I go with something else?

[Jim Becker]

Chris, my recommendation was to use actual wood, not a filler. Slivers cut with a sharp blade that have the same orientation as the existing wood. It's a lot of work, but nothing looks like wood like wood.

The only filler I've bought in recent years is Famowood and that was only used for painted projects. Where I had a nail hole or something to fill after the fact, I used a colored stick just before the final finishing steps so that it could be matched to the finished color of the wood.

[Chris Jenkins]

Jim,

I guess it would be easier to run the box back through the router and cut out the ruined dovetail key and replace it. It will just take some time to setup the router to the correct position.

[Jim Tobias]

Chris,
I would agree with Jim Becker that the best fix would be to cut a very small piece of properly oriented wood and glue it in the area of the damaged area on first photo. Be careful and cut a sliver and glue it inat the same grain direction as the other and it will look fine. I would probably cut it a little oversized and then sand it back flush. You could also "knock off the sharp corners" all the way around with a little sandpaper which would not hurt your look and also make the area less noticeable. As for the second picture, I would definitely fill that with a sawdust and titebond III mix (heavier on the sawdust to glue ratio) and stuff a little in that gap. It will definitely disappear if you pack it in the gap.
I guess this makes it quite obvious that I have had to repair many of these same type of probelm areas. If you don't learn to fix mistakes, you must not be woodworking.

Good luck wiht the box,
Jim

[Robert Mahon]

Suggestion:

Cut a slot along the edge with the TS and insert a strip of the wood used for the keys.
I've done this many times and, in fact, it has become a bit of trademark for my work, regardless of how well the corner turns out.

In my case, contrasting wood is used (trying to match end-grain in the finishing process is a bear).

[Jerry Olexa]

I have yet to find a filler that will accept stain and match. Best is a strip of wood of same type inserted/glued and for small repairs I use fine sawdust of the same hardwood mixed w a small amount of titebond. Just MHO. If its paint, they will all work to some extent...Just clean edge w putty knife and sand to blend

[Dennis Peacock]

Just like Jim Becker said...use wood to fill any gaps. One trick I've learned is to cut a strip as thin as you can safely cut it and if it's still too think? Pound it with a hammer until it will slip into the tiny crack. This compresses the wood fibers and will allow you to put it in the crack. Just remember to put the glue in the crack and not on the sliver of wood as the water in the glue will make the sliver expand and then it won't fit in the crack any more. DAMHIKT!!!! :D

[Bert Johansen]

Chris, Robert Mahon has the right idea IMHO. Dado a 1/4 x 1/4 groove vertically on each corner and glue in a strip of cherry. It will provide a really nice accent, and fix your boo-boo as well.
This is an expecially good technique for mitered plywood corners as well.

[Doug Shepard]

Jim,

I guess it would be easier to run the box back through the router and cut out the ruined dovetail key and replace it. It will just take some time to setup the router to the correct position.

That was going to be my suggestion. Another option if you want to get fancy is to get a smaller dovetail key bit and recut ALL the keys up the middle and lay in another contrasting wood.
The gap on the bottom of the box I'd fill with the thickest sliver you can wedge in there. After the glue dries and it's sanded flush, take an exacto knife and lightly score the miter joint line across the sliver end so that it looks continuous.