Has anyone used these?

[Jim Tobias]

Has anyone had any experience (good or bad) with the plywood edge router bits? There are a couple of types - one called the "Burgess" brand (convex and concave matching profiles) and then another which is a modified tongue and groove shape. I read the article in FW awhile back but I would really ike to hear some first hand experience fro someone I know and trust (Sawmill Creek members).

Thanks,
Jim

[glenn bradley]

No . . . but . . . . I was intrigued by them as well but a recent discussion here sited alignment problems as opposed to the advertised solutions. Bear in mind this is all second hand but you could search SMC for the original thread.

Edge glued solid stock seemed to be the overall preferred method so I have stuck with that. They look like they should work well though, don't they? I would imagine the T&G version would be stronger than a surface glued strip. If strength is the desired thing then maybe the finicky setup described by others would be worth the effort.

[Jim Tobias]

Yeah, they just seem to eliminate some of the glue up problems (alignment, etc.) although I would still expect to flush trim or scrape flush. It is just an aggravation to get the flat solid trim to stay put and while the glue sets. I end up cutting it a lot wider than I need to make sure I get some overlap. Then, of course, you have that much more to clean up afterwards. I don't want to convince myself that these are the perfect solution, but want to find a faster to use solid stock to trim veneer panels.
Any users out there??

[glenn bradley]

Jim,

$1 spring clamps and those phoney credit cards folks are always sending you in the mail.

[John Miliunas]

Jim,

$1 spring clamps and those phoney credit cards folks are always sending you in the mail.

Glen, hurry up and send that tip into some of those WW magazines before someone else does! :D That's a super tip, though I would probably try to squeeze in a waxed piece of hardwood in there against the edging to keep more even pressure on it. Regardless, nice tip! :) :cool:

[Mathew Nedeljko]

Jim, I've done solid edge banding on several of my projects which involve plywood shelves etc, and I've always found blue painters tape every 3 or 4 inches gives all the clamping pressure required.

I usually use 1/8" thick edge banding, leave it about 1/8" wider than the plywood, and using the tape ensures that it always covers the full edge. Then just trim it flush with a block plane and some sandpaper.:)

[Jim DeLaney]

I have both the "V" set and the 'tongue & groove' set, and don't like - or use - either one of them. Setup is very critical, and also varies from sheet to sheet of plywood, so you can't even make up a setup jig for them Depth of cut is also critical part of the setup.

For cutting the edging piece, you MUST put the edge on a wide - 3" or more is comfortable - piece of stock, then rip it to width afterward. You really DON'T want to try running a narrow piece thru the router table, taking that deep a cut!

Let me know if you want mine. Maybe we can make a deal...

[Steve Clardy]

Kelly Hanna, a member here, did a review of the burgess bits after He had done a set of plywood cabinet doors with them. He was not impressed with the bits. Lots of tearout, etc.

[glenn bradley]

I sent it to three of them. Got nice letters back saying 'no thanks'. That's OK, still works for me. I notice that someone has a commercial version out with a screw adjustment to apply more pressure.

Thanks though!

[Benjimin Young]

I sent it to three of them. Got nice letters back saying 'no thanks'. That's OK, still works for me. I notice that someone has a commercial version out with a screw adjustment to apply more pressure.

Thanks though!

Maybe they sponsor the phony credit cards ;-)