Plunge router technique questions.

[Dewayne Reding]

Fired up my new PC 895 router today. It didn't work quite like it does on TV. :( I was trying to install my router table insert today. Attempting to plunge cut a 9 x 12 hole through 1 1/4 MDF. Glad I made a template because it saved my table top. I was trying to plunge a 1/4" up spiral bit with an aluminum insert very slightly larger than the bit. Not sure how I should have done it, but this certainly wasn't it! It was fighting me bad. I was all over the place. I ended up cutting out most of the hole with my TS, then cleaning it up with a jigsaw, then a router trim bit with a bearing the same size as the bit. (Raised the TS blade up through the router table top).

[Jim Becker]

Were you making your cut with multiple steps so you weren't trying to go more than about 1/4" deep each pass?

[Dewayne Reding]

Jim

I was exceeding 1/4". Hopefully that was the problem. This is my first plunge router. It felt like I was traveling in the wrong direction with the router. Up turn spiral bits are supposed to be a good choice for plunging right?

[Brian Hale]

Up spiral bits are a good choice for that operation as they pull the chips/dust up and out of the cut. Exceeding the 1/4" depth of cut is most likely your problem. Personally, i'd make the 2-3 cuts closer to 1/8" deep to get a feel for the operation and get the cleanest of cuts, then step down in 1/4" increments.

You'll find that by making several shallow cuts the job will go faster than making a couple heavy cuts and your resulting cut surface will be quite clean.

Brian :)

[John Lucas]

I was trying to plunge a 1/4" up spiral bit with an aluminum insert very slightly larger than the bit.

That could have been the problem...not enough room for the chips to come up and out of the cut. Try cutting this material without the insert...guide the router in some other way. The only other thing would be that the bit is actually a down spiral bit. It is very hard to tell sometimes. With the right bit, you should have been able to have plunged the full depth...but not move. Plunge a 1/4" and move should have worked.

[Phil Pritchard]

As a rule of thumb with routers in general, not just plunge routers, the depth of cut (or cut step) should not exceed the diameter of the tool as this can lead to clogging, recutting (leading to scorching) and tool breakage

Phil

[Brian Hale]

That could have been the problem...not enough room for the chips to come up and out of the cut. ...........

Good catch John! I missed that point in the post...

Brian :)

[Doug Shepard]

What the others said - Multiple shallow passes and also vac out the slot after each pass.

[Dewayne Reding]

Yes, MDF dust was tightly jamming the slot almost instantly. While we're all here reading about me being stupid.... please add going the wrong direction back to my list of sins. I went the same direction that I did to chamfer the oak edge trimming on the outside of the router table top. That would be backwards when cutting out the plate insert hole now wouldn't it? Arghh!!!

Anyone think there is a niche market for a TV wood guy that screws everything up the first time? "The Router Dummy" perhaps.

[Brian Hale]

...............Anyone think there is a niche market for a TV wood guy that screws everything up the first time? "The Router Dummy" perhaps.

I'd watch it!! :D

Brian :)

[Jake Helmboldt]

One of the best tips I've seen to remember the direction to move the router:

Looking at the back of your hand, make an "L" shape w/ theumb and forefinger (like a gun as a kid). Point your thumb at the edge being routed. Your index finger then points in the direction to move the router.

Less easy to remember is when routing the inside of a hole (like your base plate opening), you move clockwise. When routing the outside (say a face frame for lack of a better example) you move counter-clockwise.

Jake

[Dewayne Reding]

Thanks for all the tips guys. After 20+ years experience making my living as a mechanic (and a family that did not starve to death), I am thinking I should be able to master this Righty-Tighty, Lefty -Loosey thing as it applies to a router. :)

[Rob Blaustein]

One of the best tips I've seen to remember the direction to move the router:

Looking at the back of your hand, make an "L" shape w/ theumb and forefinger (like a gun as a kid). Point your thumb at the edge being routed. Your index finger then points in the direction to move the router.

Less easy to remember is when routing the inside of a hole (like your base plate opening), you move clockwise. When routing the outside (say a face frame for lack of a better example) you move counter-clockwise.

Jake
Now you just have to remember which hand to use...

[Jake Helmboldt]

Now you just have to remember which hand to use...

RIGHT, RIGHT, RIGHT!:eek:

All you lefties out there have to remember to use the RIGHT hand for this rule to work (or use your left palm-up).