Craftsman viarable speed lathe, won't change speed

[Nicholas Briggs]

I have a Craftsman full size vairable speed wood lathe that is stuck on 2000 RPM. When I try to change the speed the belt just gets looser and looser until it losses grip. Anyone had this problem before? Any idea on how to fix it?

[roy knapp]

Sounds like you have a stuck motor drive pully, most likely dust and oil buildup holding the the pully in that position.

try cleaning the motor shaft and the sliding pully with solvent and blow dry with compressed air.:) :)

[Christopher Hunter]

Had this same problem with my grizzly,
do as stated above ,
If you have trouble removing the pullys heat them slightly with a torch and they should slide right off then clean and and put back together --
--Chris

[Nicholas Briggs]

I found the problem but I have no idea how to fix it. I don't know any of the names of the parts so please excuse my newbieness.

Basicly the top "Belt wheel" is not tightening. The bottom one moves fine, but when I try to slow the speed the top one stays wide open and the bottom one opens as well, resulting in a lose belt. No idea how to make the top "wheel" tighten again.

[John Hart]

Sounds like you need a great big hammer!!:D

Seriously though....Have you looked at the exploded parts view that sears supplies? My Craftsman is a direct drive so I'm not going to be much help, but anytime I've had a problem, I refer to the exploded view, to get a better understanding of how the parts all fit together. If you know the part number of your lathe, you can go to the sears website and download the drawings.

[Christopher Hunter]

O.k. Here is the problem,
the reason the top pulley will not move is because some type of debris is stopping it from moving in and out on the shaft...
you will need to remove the top pulley assembly from the shaft and clean it with some steel wool and then spray a light coat of WD-40 and let air dry..
then put the parts back together and see if that helped...
I had the same problem on a different lathe but it sound to be the same thing--
Remember to take your time and diagram the parts as you remove them so they go back on with ease...
Hope this helps
--Chris

[Bill Wyko]

Someone else mentioned that the shaft will start to rust and cause this problem. I saw this on a rating on sears website where you can rate a product. Just saw it today as a matter of fact.:)

[Bernie Weishapl]

I hope this is ok to do but found this site on lathe maintenance. It just happens to be the Palmgren or Craftsman lathe. I have used it a couple of times and even made his jig for removing the big spring and clip on the top shaft. I was told to take fine emery cloth to both the upper and lower shaft. My serviceman said not to lube the shafts because that just collects dirt. So I am going to give that a try. Hope this will be of help.

http://www.aroundthewoods.com/lathemaintenance.html

[Gordon Seto]

I am no fan of Reeves Drive.
You can do a search, there were lots of discussion about its maintenance.
There are some new lubricants that claimed would not attract dust.

Gordon

[Bill Wyko]

You might try graphite as a lube. It doesn't collect dust.

[Darrell Feltmate]

I'm the guy that has Around the Woods, that Bernie posted. Hope we are not breaking any rules here but there is a complete tear down for the drive in the Palmgren/Craftsman lathe and the manual with the Craftsman stinks for maintenance. I think the site will help, at least that is why I posted it. I have only needed to tear it down to clean twice in 5 years and in my dust pile of a shop that is not bad. Use graphite as a lubricant and things go well. I also like to use Rustcheck as a cleaner on everything. Spray it on, let it sit and wipe it off. It will actually soak into the steel, or so the folks at the body shops tell me (gullible or what?) and really helps to keep things lubricated and keep down rust. I think mine is seven years old so if you have question ask although I am too lax about checking in here. I need a 30 hour day. Next week I am gone on a course....
Darrell

[Nicholas Briggs]

OK, I got the top fly wheel off and cleaned it up, but it still doesn't fit back on real well. It still takes tremendous force to puch the fly wheel together. Maybe I'll try some of that graphite lube. I've got time to kill anyway since I can't get that beast of a tension spring back on there. I'm gona go get some all thread and make a preasure plate like in the tutorial. Unless anyone has any better ideas? Bout killed my self trying to get it back on by hand, lol.

[Darrell Feltmate]

OK, I got the top fly wheel off and cleaned it up, but it still doesn't fit back on real well. It still takes tremendous force to puch the fly wheel together. Maybe I'll try some of that graphite lube. I've got time to kill anyway since I can't get that beast of a tension spring back on there. I'm gona go get some all thread and make a preasure plate like in the tutorial. Unless anyone has any better ideas? Bout killed my self trying to get it back on by hand, lol.
Make the pressure plate. I used to lift weights (30 years ago :rolleyes:) with a guy who was 6' 2" and 230 pounds. Semi-pro boxer and pro bouncer. I think he could have gotten the thing back on by hand but I would not want to swear to it. It is easy with the pressure plate. The pulley should slip back on. Dress the shaft and the inside of the pulley with 600 grit wet/dry paper. there is likely a burr in the way. A bit of spray graphite and on she goes. I still recommend the Rust-Check as well. Great cleaner and lubricator and rust preventer.

Darrell

[Nicholas Briggs]

Any idea where I can find Rust-Check and graphite lube?

[Bonnie Campbell]

Most hardware or auto stores should carry the graphite. I found some in Walgreens even :rolleyes:

[Nicholas Briggs]

Pressure plate worked well. I actualy had more trouble with that stupid little tension ring. Speed change works better now, but still can't get down to 400 rpm. Low as I can go is about 600. Perhaps in time it will get better, as the lube works it's way in.

[Darrell Feltmate]

Any idea where I can find Rust-Check and graphite lube?
Any auto parts store should have both graphite lube and Rust-Check. Most hardwares too. Rust-Check is a linseed oil based product with solvents that let it penetrate the steel.

[Mike Ramsey]

Pressure plate worked well. I actualy had more trouble with that stupid little tension ring. Speed change works better now, but still can't get down to 400 rpm. Low as I can go is about 600. Perhaps in time it will get better, as the lube works it's way in.

If when you slid the pulley's back onto the shaft they didn't slide
on easily then you didn't sand the shaft good enough, you should
also sand inside the pulleys & touch up the key stock as the pulley
has to slide back & forth over the key. I do mine once a month
because of high humidity in my shop whether it needs it or not.

[Nicholas Briggs]

Rust was the problem. Everything's workin great now. Thanks for all the help everyone, especialy Bernie for the link to Darrell's great tutorial with out wich I never would have got that spring back on.