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Jerry Solomon
12-03-2003, 10:52 PM
My daughter has been hinting around that she would LOVE to have me build her a wooden bed. She already has a practically new king-size matress and box spring set but no headboard/footboard/etc.

When I scan my old magazines I've seen a couple of plans already that might be to her liking. HOWEVER, they are shown in single, double, or queen-size but never in king-size. Why is that??

Obviously, the larger beds cost more in materials and present more fabrication problems due to greater sizes involved. But, is it so much of a hassle that the typical amateur WW'er isn't equipped to deal with it?

Dave Avery
12-04-2003, 12:04 PM
Jerry,

You're right.... plans don't typically come for king size. A few things to consider.

When you make a king, you need support for the middle of the bed. While the spans for a queen a short enough to use slats that run from side rail to side rail, a king is too big. Most people run a "third rail" down the middle that spans from headboard to footboard that's less wide than the 2 main side rails. People also some times add a center "leg" that supports the "third rail". Rockler sells (or used to sell) the center leg and mounting hardware for the third rail.

As an alternative, I built a king (no plans, as usual) using the standard metal support frame. The frame is free-standing and the bed "floats" around the frame. While is isn't "classic" construction, the metal frame will last forever and it's a very practical solution to the problem posed in the first paragraph. It also allows for MUCH EASIER use of those dust ruffle thingies that LOML has to use.

Most importantly..... MEASURE CAREFULLY her existing mattress. While length and width are somewhat standard, +/- 1" is not uncommon and can absolutely kill you. Also measure the height of the mattress carefully. If the design you choose has a relatively low footboard, most people think that the footboard height should be approximately the same as the mattress height WITH bedding included. It looks dumb if it's lower. Just something to think about.

I'd suggest that you get a queen plan that appeals to you/her, measure the mattress, decide how you're going to handle the third rail issue, and modify the plan accordingly. Hope this helps. Dave

Von Bickley
12-04-2003, 1:00 PM
I like Dave's idea of using the existing metal frame and attaching the head board and foot board to it.
Will make things much simpler......

Dick Parr
12-04-2003, 1:00 PM
We were thinking of getting a king size mattress set. I want to make the frame, but was wondering now that mattress’s are so thick, some up to 16-18” or more, do you still need the box springs? Wouldn’t a plywood base work just as well with a good mattress? As noted above, support in the middle is a must. It would sure be easier to build the frame.

Dave Avery
12-04-2003, 4:56 PM
I like Dave's idea of using the existing metal frame and attaching the head board and foot board to it.
Will make things much simpler......


Thanks for the kudos, Von, but a slight correction. I used traditional side rails for the bed that attached to the HB and FB using metal bed rail fasteners. The side rails totally hide the metal frame and the entire set-up looks exactly like a normal bed. I'll post some pics later when I get home from work - if the kids leave me alone long enough to do so :) Dave


Picture.......

Jerry Solomon
12-04-2003, 7:51 PM
Dave - Thanks for the advice. Let's see if I understand your "floating" frame idea. The matress/box spring is resting on a $40 folding metal frame which is positioned inside the rectangle formed by the HB/FB and two side rails?? This is obviously a LOT easier than trying to support the bedding on the wood parts. My wife thinks that the only problem is our daughter wants a "high" bed - what ever "high" means (step stool, extension ladder :p)

Secondly, where's a good place to get quality bed rail fasteners? I've seen a few that really look flimsy!

Dick - I've never seen a quality bed that didn't have a box spring. Maybe the continued use of these is due to "we've always done it that way" or maybe it's just propaganda put out by the matress manufacturers. Some of these matresses are certainly thick enough you'd think they could stand on their own!!

Thanks to all for your advice. Work safely - Jerry

Dave Avery
12-04-2003, 8:28 PM
Jerry,

You have the concept correctly. And yes, if she wants a high bed, it's harder to use a metal frame. That said, you'd have some serious design issues with normal contruction as well - like you couldn't use the standard side rail method to hold the mattress. Again, just something to think about.

I use the bed rail fasteners from Woodcraft and like them pretty well. I've heard others say good things about the ones from Van Dyke restorers, but I have no personal experience. One other alternative, particularly if you're going the metal frame route, is to use normal M&T construction without glue.... peg the mortises instead with round (dowel) pegs of a contrasting color that are also not glued in. I've done this before and it works very well. The pegs easily tap out with another section of dowel when you need to move the bed. Overall, I think that mortising in the bed rail fasterners is easier than cutting tenons on long side rails, so that's what I now do. Hope this helps. Dave.

Jerry Solomon
12-04-2003, 10:17 PM
Dave - You've given me a lot to think about. Thanks again!!

Jerry

Dick Parr
12-05-2003, 8:18 AM
Dave - That’s a beautiful bed. What did you use for the end panels?

Jerry – They sell those bed risers in the store, made out of heavy plastic. They only come in packages of 4 from what I have seen. My daughter has them under her metal bed frame and it sure did raise it up. She uses a bed ruffle around the bottom and you can’t even tell they are there. I think she paid around $20 for 4 risers. For a King Size bed I would imagine you would need at least 7 of them (not sure how many feet on a king metal frame). You could always make your own out of a 6x6, that way you could make them whatever height she wants. That would get you what she wants and then use Dave’s style of bed frame/head/foot board to go around it. Just a thought. Good luck.

Dave Avery
12-05-2003, 8:48 AM
Dave - That’s a beautiful bed. What did you use for the end panels?



Dick,

Thanks for the kind words......

The bed frame and legs are all solid cherry. The panels on the headboard and footboard are quilted maple veneer over 1/2" baltic birch plywood. I bought a hobbiest Vacupress unit for veneer work a while back and buy all of my veneer on E-bay. For about $2-2.50 per SF, you can make panels that are truly stunning. It's a bit more work than buying solid lumber, but much less expensive and much easier to find highly figured veneers.

The quilted maple was finished with pure tung oil to pop the grain. As you can see, the color is similar to the cherry - something that I like. LOML, however, would have preferred that the maple remain a whiter color. Dave.