Hanging outlets

[Greg Peterson]

I'm nearing the point in my wiring project where I could hang a couple of outlets. In my casual research online and at the local BORG, I haven't seen any hanging outlets or the wire traps that suspend the cable and outlet box.

Where would one find these?

Thanks. I know I'm asking alot of questions without posting any pictorial evidence that I am converting the garage to a shop, but I really am. I'll have pictures forthcoming. Right now I can't even see my table saw. It's a mess.

[glenn bradley]

I picked up a 30' reel of 12 gauge with a triple tap on the end on sale at HF for about $35. One of HF's needles in the haystack. It has worked great for over a year and shows no signs of failure. More versital than just a hanging outlet and automatically retracts out of the way when not in use. I'm gonna grab another one next time they're on sale.

[Bob Hoffmann]

I made mine by hanging a box on the ceiling. I attached a length of the blue flexable conduit to the box and a socket with a box (I used one of those outside boxes that hold a socket -- it keeps the dust out) on the other end.

It is secure and it flexes if hit -- I have it around 3.5 feet off the floor -- and use it for the tabel saw and planer -- oh, and it is a 220 line.

[Jim Becker]

Your local "real" electrical supply house will have the strain-reliefs and connections for overhead hanging outlets. Forget about stuff like this at the 'borg...too specialized. I recommend you use twist locks if this is a 240v application. (I prefer them even for normal outlet locations)

[Bill Simmeth]

Search eBay for "cable grips" or "cord grips". Or do same at places like mcmaster.com or grainger.com

[Greg Peterson]

Thanks guys. Pointed me in the right direction yet again.

[Mike Holbrook]

I just finished the electrical in my main shop yesterday. I ran three seperate 12 gauge wire circuits to 20 AMP CB's. They are terminated in the sub pannel I had put in my shop. It has a couple 240's for when I need them.

I put three regular and one GFI outlet in the ceiling joists. The GFI is above my sharpening station. My wife puchased a reel that we mounted in the ceiling of our garage renovation. She informs me that Sears carries a wide variety of Craftsman reels down to 10' cords. I plan on hanging small reels at each outlet.

I just joined the ranks of the Festool faithful. I am determined to have a clear floor path for my Festool vac / dust collection system.

[Rob Russell]

I made mine by hanging a box on the ceiling. I attached a length of the blue flexable conduit to the box and a socket with a box (I used one of those outside boxes that hold a socket -- it keeps the dust out) on the other end.

It is secure and it flexes if hit -- I have it around 3.5 feet off the floor -- and use it for the tabel saw and planer -- oh, and it is a 220 line.

Bob,

FYI, that's not an NEC-compliant installation because the flex conduit isn't listed for an application like that - the box is supposed to be supported. I'm not saying it won't work, but before you sell your house (whenever that is) I'd replace it with a plain old ceiling-mounted receptacle so a house inspector doesn't ding you for it.

Rob

[Bernhard Lampert]

Bob,
I used the Harbor Freight variety (ITEM 91470-5VGA, on sale for $39). I have 4 of them and so far the performed flawlessly--even after my nephew used one as a swing rope.
The HF seems to be identical to the Northern Tool and a couple of others, just for less money. I generally do not buy HF for any equipment that will get repeated use, but the electrical reel seems to be well made.
Cheers,
Bernhard

[David G Baker]

Rob,
I also think that it is not NEC compliant to have hanging receptacles. I think that the equipment cord is supposed to be plugged into a ceiling outlet using a twist lock or something similar. Cable reels are ok as long as the size wire is gaged to fit the equipment requirements.
I had all of the supplies purchased to hang five plug in receptacles using the compression fittings. Before I did the work I had some other work done and inspected, the inspector informed that what I wanted to do was not NEC or local code acceptable. He told me that I had to surface mount the plugs on or in the ceiling and use the equipment power cord to plug into them. I ran conduit from a ceiling box instead.
David B

[Kyle Kraft]

I used 12-3 Bus drop cable, available at a real electrical supply house, and the "chinese finger trap" Kellems grips on each end, and a Hubbell 4 way box. My inspector loved it!!

[Al Willits]

I think I have the same thing as Glenn, got it from HD and was about the same price, even has a little led light that tells you if its powered or not.
!2 gauge is heavy enough for most anything you'll ever plug into it, and the big plus is you don't have to deal with code, its cheap and you can move it to where evers there's an outlet.
Won't do 220, but you didn't say if you needed 220.

Al

[Jim Becker]

the inspector informed that what I wanted to do was not NEC or local code acceptable. He told me that I had to surface mount the plugs on or in the ceiling and use the equipment power cord to plug into them.
David, what the inspector made you do doesn't make sense to me as I've seen a number of professionally installed ceiling drops hard-wired to boxes, using strain reliefs and terminated in a single female plug (usually twist lock). (Not a hanging box, however) These were heavy rubber coated cords held securely by a compression fitting on the box as well as the wire strain relief shroud. Perhaps it was a local code, but outside of that...

[Bob Herpolsheimer]

I agree with Jim that it is most likely a local code. I work at a "real" electrical wholesale and have never heard of that. In my shop I ran pvc to 4square junction box with a strain relief to support the cord. I had no problem with the inspection.

[Greg Narozniak]

I picked up a 30' reel of 12 gauge with a triple tap on the end on sale at HF for about $35. One of HF's needles in the haystack. It has worked great for over a year and shows no signs of failure. More versital than just a hanging outlet and automatically retracts out of the way when not in use. I'm gonna grab another one next time they're on sale.

Got the same one and it has been installed for a few months and it works perfect.

[David G Baker]

David, what the inspector made you do doesn't make sense to me as I've seen a number of professionally installed ceiling drops hard-wired to boxes, using strain reliefs and terminated in a single female plug (usually twist lock). (Not a hanging box, however) These were heavy rubber coated cords held securely by a compression fitting on the box as well as the wire strain relief shroud. Perhaps it was a local code, but outside of that...
Jim,
The project was in a small town in California. The California may say it all except for, I recently read on Mike Holt's NEC site pretty much the same thing. The thing that I did not know about at the time was the wire mesh stress relief, I was going to use just the compression fitting and it was a residential project so that may have been the inspectors problem.
When I was working in shops, when I was much younger, I saw the hanging receptacles all over the place and that was what I was trying to duplicate.
David B

[Greg Peterson]

I am going to hang a two seperate 240V, twist-lock female recepticles. One for the TS and one for the future BS. Local electrical shop should have the strain reliefs I am looking for.

By my workbench, I have plenty of outlets surrounding the bench, but would like to have a outlet or two hanging above the workbench. I don't know that a hanging duplex recepticle is code, but a retractable reeled extension cord would be overkill.

[Jim Becker]

Greg, Robert Tarr illustrated not long ago one of the dangers of the retractable reeled extension cords...they really are not supposed to be used unless they are fully uncoiled. Fire hazard. He could have lost his whole shop...

You could do some overhead 120v "outlets" in the same manner as the 240v hanging receptacles...the strain relief is the key. Around a bench it could be annoying, however...

[Tom Jones III]

To echo/amplify what Jim said, extension cords including reels are not meant to be a permanent part of the wiring. I am fairly confident (I'm positive but I can't qoute chapter and verse) that it is against NEC and fire codes to use them in any sort of permanent setup.

Your electrical system is only as good as the weakest link.

[Dave Rosser]

To do a cord drop properly, you need to have use a cord cap, not a receptacle of any type. The ideal case is a twist lock, especially when using 220V. You could come out of the box with a strain relief, or a cord grip, and then you need to use a hanging grip for the actual drop. In the photos, you will see that the haning grip is attached to a spring (designed for this purpose). Inevitably someone will try and hang on a cord, so the spring will definitely come in handy. These photo's are taken from my workplace, where we have dozens of cord drops, all of which conform to the CEC (Canadian Electrical Code) which is very similar to the NEC (US).

[John Eaton]

FYI - the HF unit (91470-5VGA) is currently on sale for $39.99 online and the stores will generally price match if they have them in stock:

-- John

[Tom Jones III]

Do you buy the spring grip from an electrical supply place, if so what do you call it?

[Kyle Kraft]

Tom,

They are called Sky-Ties here in the U.S. Check your local industrial electric supply house.

[Dave Rosser]

Do you buy the spring grip from an electrical supply place, if so what do you call it?

You sure do..
The spring part is called a Safety Spring, the grip part it called Bus Drop Grip.

I've included a link to Hubbel-Kellem web site.
There are usually other brands available too, as Kellems tend to be on the higher priced end of things, but at the same time are generally more available.

http://www.hubbell-wiring.com/Kellems.asp

Good Luck.

[Greg Peterson]

Thanks for the info guys. Looks like I need a couple of L6-20 drops with cable strain and spring supports.

Just want to do this right the first time. Not interested in the various problems, from minor to catastrophic, associated with cutting corners.

[Rob Russell]

Rob,
I also think that it is not NEC compliant to have hanging receptacles. I think that the equipment cord is supposed to be plugged into a ceiling outlet using a twist lock or something similar. Cable reels are ok as long as the size wire is gaged to fit the equipment requirements.
I had all of the supplies purchased to hang five plug in receptacles using the compression fittings. Before I did the work I had some other work done and inspected, the inspector informed that what I wanted to do was not NEC or local code acceptable. He told me that I had to surface mount the plugs on or in the ceiling and use the equipment power cord to plug into them. I ran conduit from a ceiling box instead.
David B

I would have asked for the code section. I'm not a licensed electrician, but it's my understanding that you can have hanging cord caps. You need to have strain relief (the chinese finger trap wire basket thingees) on both ends. You probably could not hang a receptacle but a connector body (think end of an extension cord) would be fine.

At least - that's my understanding.

Rob

Edit: Duh - should've read Dave Rosser's post - what he said, with picture even!

[Dave Rosser]

Again, for Canada, any device boxes are required to be supported (ie. fastened to supports), so you could not have one hanging regardless of how the cord was attached to it.

As for cord caps, they typically have a built in clamps, so you would not need any extra type of wire grip or strain relief at the cap end.

Also, Canadian code requires receptacles of 30A or more installed facing downwards need provisions for locking (ie. twist lock). However, I would recommend them on everything, especially 220V or 20A +.

[Al Willits]

""""""""
Greg, Robert Tarr illustrated not long ago one of the dangers of the retractable reeled extension cords...they really are not supposed to be used unless they are fully uncoiled. Fire hazard. He could have lost his whole shop...
""""""""

If I remember right....
Not sure, but wasn't that either 16 or 18 ga wire in a plastic housing?
The ones from HD are 12ga and metal, substantially better grade I'd bet.
I've run my die grinder for about 45 minutes with this unit and it has stayed cool, even with the cord only partially exposed.

Does bring up a good point of being aware of the mundane things we use like extension cords and safety.

Doesn't sound like the 110v reel is gonna work for him anyway.

Al

[Greg Peterson]

Al, the retractable reel was DOA for me, as I didn't need an extension cord, just a convenient outlet for a handtool. But, I've got so many outlets surrounding my workbench that it almost borders on silly. One less outlet isn't going to matter that much.

That's one advantage to having a small workspace; relatively cheap to install a ton-o-outlets.

I will be installing a couple of 240v L6-20a drops though.

[Bill Brady]

You can hang a receptacle box on a cord with Kellem grips if desired. The catch is the box needs to be listed for the use, no metal conduit boxes. Hubbel and probably everyone else make fiber boxes designed to be used as cord drops, they can even be purchased prewired.

The catch all in the National Electrical Code is that any wiring device has to be listed by Underwriters Labratories to be used in the manner you intend to use it. This usually means just use you heads before you do an installation and don't get too creative with it.

[David G Baker]

I would have asked for the code section. I'm not a licensed electrician, but it's my understanding that you can have hanging cord caps. You need to have strain relief (the chinese finger trap wire basket thingees) on both ends. You probably could not hang a receptacle but a connector body (think end of an extension cord) would be fine.

At least - that's my understanding.

Rob

Edit: Duh - should've read Dave Rosser's post - what he said, with picture even!
Rob,
Thanks. I now live in Michigan and am in an area where they aren't as critical as they are in the area of California where I lived when I was trying to do the drop plugs.
David B

[Charlie Knauer]

The problem with using rubber cord, (flexible cable) is it shall be energized from a receptacle outlet and equipped with an attachment plug. NEC 400-7b.
Rubber cord shall not be used as a substitute for fixed wiring. Nec 400-8.

Charlie

[Jim Becker]

Charlie, there must be an exception lurking in the NEC for this particular kind of application...I cannot imagine all those workshops, labs and other facilities that use drops like this are out of compliance.

[Ryan Myers]

Hello everyone. I am newly registered member. I have been lurking around the boards for a few months and have a learned lots of tips and tricks that are great. I think SMC is great!

I felt this subject warrants my first post. While I do not claim to be an expert about anything, I do happen to earn my living as a licensed electrician. So I feel qualified to chime in with my .02 worth on this topic.

I have installed many installations like these over the years in woodshops, classrooms, etc. I will begin by saying that the inspector always has the final say. Even if you don't agree it usually best just to agree with them and make them feel like they are doing their job.

Now section 400.7(B) & 400.8 doesn't apply to this situation. 400.7(B) refers to utilization equipment that already has cord hardwired to it. Basically they do not want you to have both ends of the cord permantly connected. It is just clarifing that you need to have cord end so that the equipment can be disconnected quickly and easily. Section 400.8 states is clarifying that it is not acceptacle to install rubber cord, where it it is more applicable to run conduit, sheathed cable or other permant wiring methods that will stand the test of time. Section 400.7 (A)(1) Pendants - allows for the use of rubber cord in this installation. Section 314.23(H)(1) Allows for pendant boxes to be supported by rubber cord as long as approved connectors are used (Kellem). As far as the receptacle on the end you can use a cord body (female attachment plug) or you can use a standard box with the kellem and then install a receptacle with cover. Yes, you must use listed items, but most items are listed. The listing has more to do with wet, damp, dry locations or what division classification that the box is acceptacle for. It may be your preference if you choose to use a box to use one with a molded hub for threading the kellem into. However a standard 4" square box will be acceptable.

Bottom line if you use the proper size rubber cord, the strain relief (kellem) on both ends (with hanging receptacle box) or one strain relief and a hanging cord end (female attachment body) you will be fine.

I apologize if my post comes off sounding like I am a know it all. I just wanted to help clarify the matter, because when it comes to electricity it just feels second nature to me. I believe everyday is a learning experience and I am always open to learning from what someone else has to say.

[Jim Becker]

Ryan, don't apologize! Great information! And welcome to SMC!