Using a block plane on the blank while spinning?

[Bob Opsitos]

I'd been thinking about this for a while now. Seems to me that it should work fine as the cut would be made similar to the skew, but with better control. Hadn't tried it because I was never comfortable with trying something that seemed so odd with the "not-so-low" low speed of my lathe.

Just so happens that I"m reading Garret Hack's "The Handplane book" and he mentions using his plane on the lathe with great results along with, in the old days of barrel making, planes being used to round barrels on the lathe.

Anyone try this? Next time I've something end grain cylindrical on the lathe, I'm going to give this a try.

Bob

[Dario Octaviano]

If you can have the plane properly supported by the tool rest then it might work.

The plane will have a controlled cut but (I imagine) is not "catch" proof.

[Keith Burns]

My first question would be WHY? Seems like a disaster waiting to happen. How would you suppurt the plane? Tool rest? You can use an axe to turn with but why would you want to when there are tools made specifically for the purpose.

[Jim Underwood]

At first my reaction was as others.... Sounds like a disaster...

But after I think about it a minute, I wonder if it's not actually a pretty good idea. Especially if someone else reports good results.

Think about it:

1) It's making a controlled depth cut, so it should not be a problem no matter what happens.
2) Even if it did have a "catch" what would happen? It would just force the plane to back up a little until the splinter broke off.

I think you would be able to angle the plane and support it on the tool rest simultaneously. Just don't get the plane between the tool rest and the spinning blank at any time.

I would however, try to find some information on technique and possible problems before experimenting though.

I've never tried any of this, and don't know anyone who has, so I'm not recommending anything, just thinking aloud (so to speak).

[Bernie Weishapl]

I agree with Keith. Disaster. My brother tried it one time about 10 yrs. ago. He used the tool rest to support it. Well he got a catch and got a belly full of plane. :mad: Took a while for the black and blue mark to leave. I have a wall full of tools and think I will stick with those.

[Rob Bourgeois]

Great idea.....lets try a router too. :rolleyes:

I am with Keith. Whenever i try using the wrong tool for a job I usually end doing something stupid and hurting myself. For instance you wouldnt use a screw driver to carve nor use chisel to open a can of paint.

[Chuck Saunders]

screwdrivers and chisels are different tools? ;) I have used a block plane on the lathe turning between centers. It works fine but the finish is not that great.

[Bruce Smith]

Like others have stated, I'm not sure why anyone would want to try it when there are tools especially designed for the task. It sounds to me like an accident looking for a place to happen. At my former shop we had an old saying "if you think something is unsafe, it usually is, so don't try it". Now retired, I often relate to this saying, to me it is oh so true.

[Quinn McCarthy]

I seem to remember seeing a jig one time that used a wood box that mounted on the bed of the lathe with walls that were as high as the height of the cut. This would create a perfect cylinder the diameter of the top of the box.

Quinn

[Brett Baldwin]

I saw somewhere where a jig was made that was essentially just two boards set alongside the spindle that would allow you to make a straight line on the spindle. You rest the sole of the plane on the boards and trim the spindle with the blade. I could see where it would work well to dimension a spindle to the same size every time.

[Ron Crusee]

I've seen this jig as well. It's in the book Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking, Shaping, Veneering, Finishing. Page 69. He called it a dimensioning jig and it's used to create a precise cylinder with the lathe running at low speed. The book also shows a picture of the jig mounted and in use. He didn't use a block plane though, looks more like a #5 or #6.

Ron

[George Tokarev]

Done the plane. Columns rotating very slowly, heel of the plane on the "toolrest" made by clamping a board parallel to the taper. It works great with a good 30 degrees of skew as you move downhill. Suicide trying to go uphill. Smooth and jack are a bit easier to work with than a block, because of the length.

Though I've cut flutes using a slotted jig and the indexing, I've never had the courage to try routing for round. As near as I can gather from the literature I've seen, a core box type bit, which makes the whole process a bit more like a gouge taking a bite is the safest. I'd have to have a lathe that went slower than my 250 to try it.

[John Shuk]

I know a couple of people who have tried it with good results. I know one of the mags even mentioned it a few years back.

[Jonathon Spafford]

Why do it though?? ... I am sure that in the time you have it planed you could of easily had two spindles roughed out with a roughing gouge and had a moxie and a bowl of icecream ;) :D

[Curt Fuller]

I believe I'd just use the skew!

[Jim Becker]

I believe I'd just use the skew!

I think I'd rather get hit in the gut with a block plane than with the evil skew.. .:eek: :D

[Bill Boehme]

Visualize the problem like this:
Case 1 - You are pushing a plane by hand to round a stationery barrel. You hit a knot and the whole process comes to a stop because you are supplying the power. Result is that you back up and start again and there is no chance of the plane getting caught in your gut.
Case 2 - You are holding a plane steady while the barrel is being rotated by a powerful motor that is unlikely to stall. You hit the same knot and the barrel keeps on rotating while you are hanging onto the plane for dear life. You wonder where the plane went as you pick yourself up off the floor -- then you notice a cocobolo knob where your belly button ought to be. Mystery solved.I am sure that there are ways to rig up some sort of captive jig for the plane -- but why bother unless you are a production turner.

Bill

[Gary DeWitt]

A plane is just a skew with a better controlled depth of cut.
The only advantage over a skew is if you are making a straight or tapered cylinder, it's easier to get it very straight. I've used a #5 for this, at slow speed, and it sounds scarier than it is in practice, but I only had use for this technique once, so planes are very limited in turning.

As far as knots go, I don't turn wood with knots in the first place.

[Bill Boehme]

My remarks were made a bit togue-in-cheek, but without taking some precaution to make sure that the plane is being held securely (in other words, not free hand) it could prove to be an exciting experience "knot or not".

Bill

[George Tokarev]

It would have been a long time for me with the skew, though a roughing gouge was used for initial rounding. My first encounter with that beast, actually. Old fellow I was working for knew it well. Had it not been for the length and need for a fair surface, there would have been no need for the plane, but with so short a reference as the gouge and a questionable "rest" to work with, there were lumps to be levelled.

Of course you want to rest any tool firmly, hold it less so. White knuckles are bad on a couple of levels. Though you may climb a bit over a knot even with a decent skew to the plane iron, no reason in the world for resorting to the ultimate, and releasing your cup of the tote. Most of the force encountered 15 degrees or so from TDC is out and away, where you aren't anyway.

[Ron Sardo]

The only people that I know who really tried using a plane on a lathe succeed launching it across the room.

[Lee DeRaud]

A plane is just a skew with a better controlled depth of cut.And a bevel that's always rubbing.

A block plane doesn't really have enough "handle" for this, but anything bigger sounds reasonable.
(Assuming of course that I had a lathe big enough (and/or any desire) to turn porch posts or flagpoles. :p )

[Bob Opsitos]

So I did get chance to try is breifly yesterday while off fron work. Went with very little blade depth and a tight mouth and the lowest speed. Initially held against the rest but with the minimal blade stickout I found that I felt comfortable simply holding it. Worked at approximately a 45 skew.

Shavings were very similar to what you see from a skew. The peice I had was and end grain hollow form I have been working on so there was some curve to it. Seemed difficult to maintain the right contact to keep it cutting and any out of round to the blank, given the limited blade stickout, made cutting slow going. Where it did cut it left a very nice finish. Definietly for finishing, not hogging.

Since the blank I had up was not ideal, I think I'll give this another try next time I have a roughed down cylinder that I want straight.

Bob

[Carl Eyman]

I just saw an old one of these today on my messy bench. It was on how to turn a taper on the lathe using a block plane.

[jimmy conway]

I've actually seen this jig last summer. I was going through some of my grandfather's old things and ran across one of these.





Home renovations (http://www.myhomeus.om)are easier than you think.

[ROBERT SCHUMAN]

Hello Bob

Several years ago I was running behind on some big fir columns, thirteen feet by two feet and I tried what you are talking about. I held the plane on the top of the turning at a slight angle and had good results set the blade low and experiment with the angles . I never had a catch but if you try hard enough I guess you could.

[ROBERT SCHUMAN]

www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=45209&d=1156006350 (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=45209&d=1156006350)

See pic Rob.


Great idea.....lets try a router too. :rolleyes:

I am with Keith. Whenever i try using the wrong tool for a job I usually end doing something stupid and hurting myself. For instance you wouldnt use a screw driver to carve nor use chisel to open a can of paint.

[Rob Bourgeois]

www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=45209&d=1156006350 (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=45209&d=1156006350)

See pic Rob.


Thats completely different and you know it.

I was talking about a handheld router. If you are willing to hold a hand held router on a tool rest....you really need to have your head examined.

[ROBERT SCHUMAN]

Thats completely different and you know it.

I was talking about a handheld router. If you are willing to hold a hand held router on a tool rest....you really need to have your head examined.


Saw doctor ....he said head was full of wood chips.Normal for a wood worker.

:~)

[Jim Underwood]

Sounds as if there are techniques that will work and those that won't, just as with any tool. Looks like a bit of research will turn up the right techniques. Personally I'd use a skew instead, but then I'm comfortable with it now.

You can run into a lot of trouble with a skew or hollowing tool also if you don't know what you are doing.

How many of you have had disastrous catches when using either of these tools?

Show of hands?