Pen Turning

[Daniel Heine]

Hello,

I have two question regarding pen turning.

1. I purchased some spalted Maple pen blanks on ebay before Christmas, and they all "blew up" while turning them. I was told that spalted woods should be stabilized before turning. How do I stabilize pen blanks?

2. I would like to create some of my own acrylic pen blanks for my son's school colors, Cubs theme, etc. Does anyone on this list know how to create your own acrylic pen blanks?

I know I will get the best possible responses just like always, so I will thank you all now. What a great bunch of people on this forum.

Thanks,
Dan Heine

[Jonathon Spafford]

Never turned spalted for a pen blank before, but might be able to give you some ideas.

So some people just CA the punky spots when turning with the thin stuff. I have also heard of taking titebond and water and mixing it 50/50 and then soaking the blanks in there a couple hours. I believe some people also soak the blanks in epoxy thinned with alcohol. Some people here I think stabilize there own blanks and I have seen some tutorials on how to do it, but it doesn't look too simple. There are places that you can take wood to, to have it professionally stabilized. Anyway, hope this helps a bit.

Also, make sure you are wearing that respirator with the spalted shtuff... ain't too good for you!!!

[David Walser]

In addition to the ideas Jonathon gave you, consider two other options:

1. For mild spalting, a few coats of thinned down lacquer, will help to stabilize the wood.

2. For more punky wood, try an application of Minwax' Wood Hardener. The Minwax product will essentially turn the blank into plastic.

Here's a link to a description of Minwax Wood Hardener: http://www.minwax.com/products/woodmaint/hardener.cfm

[Dario Octaviano]

Check your PM re: casting and other pen related stuff.

I agree you can either have the blanks professionally stabilized or use CA.

Depends on how spalted the wood is. You may use wood hardener or not. It is not as good as CA though. I had some wood that I treated with Minwax WH and still absorbs CA like a thirsty camel.

If you can drill it w/o it tearing out then drill then treat the hole with thin CA. Re-drill then glue the tube. Turn and apply thin CA before the final cut. Turn some more and re-apply thin CA until final dimension is reached. I usually finish it with CA also.

If the wood is punky and tearing out, either use minwax or drill with smaller drill, treat w/ CA then re-drill with the right sized drill, CA again etc. until you get the right size for the tube.

Some wood are worth the extra effort...others are just a waste and should be tossed away.

Hope this helps.

[Nicholas Briggs]

Sorry for being a newbie. But can someone tell me what CA is?

Thanks in advance.

[David Walser]

Sorry for being a newbie. But can someone tell me what CA is?

Thanks in advance.

CA is the abbreviation for the chemical name of "super glue". (I'd tell you what the chemical name is, but I can't spell. :o )

[Jonathon Spafford]

CA is the abbreviation for the chemical name of "super glue". (I'd tell you what the chemical name is, but I can't spell. :o )

Cyanoacrylate ... ok, I only knew it 'cause I looked it up! ;)

[Bob Hallowell]

Daniel, I use minwax. I have it in a jar and just soak the blanks ove night it works good. I even use it for my corn cob pens.

Bob