cutting curves without a bandsaw

[Mike Steinhilper]

I need to cut some curves in 1.5" pine. Doesn't sound hard, but my jigsaw is just not working. I do not have a bandsaw. My question is this: would i be safe cutting it on the router table with a straight bit and a pattern? I really don't want to do it that way, but I can't think of another way to get the curves. My jigsaw has been fine with thinner stock, but not this. Any ideas?

[Greg Funk]

What is the radius of the curves? Are they inside or outside curves? If they are outside then you should be able to get close using a tablesaw and multiple cuts. You could then finish up with a router and template. If it's not too big, multiple passes with the router and a template should work fine as well.

Greg

[Chris Bolton]

It's strange that your jigsaw isn't doing it for you.
You might want to swap for a more aggressive blade and see if that helps.
The router with either a flush trimming bit and template would work but it is a pretty hefty bit you'd be spinning.

A coping saw with an aggressive tooth would take a little longer, but not too much longer.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

There are some rather long blades available for the Bosch and FesterTool jigsaws.

And then of course there is always the handy dandy home made bow saw.

[Dave Fifield]

A hand fret saw or coping saw with a fresh blade should be able to do it easily and cheaply enough.

What was the problem with your jig saw? Blade not long enough, or the cut not vertical enough?

[Peter Stahl]

What is the radius of the curves? Are they inside or outside curves? If they are outside then you should be able to get close using a tablesaw and multiple cuts. You could then finish up with a router and template. If it's not too big, multiple passes with the router and a template should work fine as well.

Greg

Like Greg said I've done some thick pieces with a flush trim router bit. Works really well but you still have to have smooth edge on your template. Most jigsaw blades wonder quite a bit when going around curves in thick stock.

[Ian Abraham]

Blade choice with the jigsaw.
You want a real course crosscut type blade for thick pine. The sawdust doesn't clear from the cut otherwise and the pitch melts it into the gullets of the fine blade. Then you aren't going anywhere :(

I would cut out the curve roughly with the jigsaw then either sand the piece smooth or trim it with a handheld router and template depending on the finish required. The router / template thing works best when you are only taking a small amount of waste off.

Cheers

Ian