Is a Kreg kit worth the investment for a beginner?

[Luke McFadden]

I've been looking at them for a while, and they seem like they would be great. Specifically looking at the newer R3 kit.

I'd like to do some some basic shelves and some small rolling cabinets.

I'm not sure if this matters or not, but my next-to-buy tools are: 1/4 finishing sander, router, jigsaw, table saw. The only power tools I have so far are a drill and a circular saw.

Thanks,

L

[Mike Parzych]

It is a nice system and a good tool in building cabinet face frames, etc. But if I were in your position, I'd put the money toward some of the other, more basic tools.

I went for a while without it, increasing my skills until I was up to projects wherein it becomes a necessity. Even today there's stuff I'd like to have, but all in due time.

[Roy McQuay]

I suggest, for what you want to make, getting the router for edging and dado work. The sander will be good anytime as will the tablesaw. I bought the complete Kreg kit about a year ago and so far, haven't used it to make anything. This is just my opinion.

[Pete Brown]

I use my older Kreg jig a lot. However, even after using it for a few years, I still can never clamp the wood tight enough to prevent it from shifting when the screws are tightened up on something like a face frame. That's pretty frustrating. I use a face clamp and then also clamp a square in there and still get shifting.

The kreg is useful for lots of things, and then not the right tool for lots of others. Pocket screws are ugly as anything, and really only good for situations where you can completely hide the screw hole (like the outside of a cabinet where it will butt against the wall). It's rare when you can use pocket screws on a piece of stand-alone furniture and get a result that you like. IOW, you'll still need to know lots of other basic joinery in order to make something nice.

I suspect that the festool domino will greatly reduce my reliance on pocket hole screws. The joints will be stronger and I won't get that crazy shift.

Pete

[Randall Frey]

I bought one of the first Kreg jigs at the Woodworking Show years ago. For me, it has really come in handy for building face frame cabinetry. But as stated, It's place is best where the holes won't be visible. Although some people use the plugs you can buy for a decorative accent. I did recently purchase the newest kit as it has been improved enough to warrant the purchase. This type of jointery offers instant gratification in that you can glue and screw, your done. In a craft like woodworking we all have to exercise patience, this cheats that a bit. That said, you do need a means to cut nice square pieces to join so that probably should come first?

[Per Swenson]

.Yes.


And if you want to make face frames perfect every time.

With the kreg that is, Use this clamp in combination with the

other one.

Per

[Nils Titley]

After watching a segment on the woodworking channel about kreg tools I am eager to purchase a system and put it to use. I see lots of potential to this tool.

[Denise Palko]

I too am a beginner. For this reason, I found the Kreg tool very useful to help build some shop bases. I made a mobile base for the planer and a large outfeed table for the tablesaw. A picture of the planer base is attached. It's melamine with an oak facing. (The outfeed table is basically a double kitchen / storage cabinet base with a 30" x 70" top.)

As a beginner, the Kreg system really simplified the construction and let me set the shop up pretty quickly. Of course, these items "are what they are" and are utility pieces and meant to serve a specific purpose. They are not furniture. I cannot imagine too many applications for the tool in making fine furniture.

[Dewayne Reding]

You need other tools more IMO. I am also a beginner. I was looking closely at the displays at Rockler. It does look strong, but is strictly for hidden stuff as it just doesn't look good to me. I suppose you could do a lot of work on the Kreg wood plugs for reasonable appearance. But it would seem to me that you just gave back the main advantage of using a Kreg, which is "quick". I'm not knocking the Kreg, but it isn't the third or fifth tool to own for a new guy/gal unless you are going straight to cabinet face construction.

I also recommend a router, or a used table saw. If you know somebody with a TS, you could make quite a few router jigs and do all sorts of joinery with an inexpensive router.

[David G Baker]

There is a downsized kit on Fleabay for around $40 that does not have all the bells and whistles but will do pretty much what the Kreg tool does. It is not a Kreg brand name.
I have the K3 kit. I like it and would buy it again but like many have written, your dollars as a beginner may be better spent on other tools unless you are going to do a lot of the type wood working where the tool is going be used a lot.
David B

[Jim Fox]

A Kreg setup was one of the first things I got when I got all my gear. But it was a must since I was going to be doing a lot of cabinets.

[Mark Singer]

The Kreg is great for lots of things! I have made some forniture and cabinets quickly....

[James Carmichael]

Absolutely, it's a great way to get started. As Per said, very easy for a beginner to get good face frames.

[Al Willits]

Another newbie and I have the K3 version, nothing much to add that hasn't been said, but they are nice in the respect you put something together with one of these and you can take it apart again, bit difficult to do with glued joints, nice feature for us who are still making mistakes..:)

Seems each method of joinery has its good and bad features, be nice if one could try each out before buying and see what works for ya.

Al

[joseph j shields]

Luke,

One thing that is often overlooked when discussing the Kreg Jig is the fact that it saves you money.

How?

The fact that you don't need clamps for the glue-up.

It is very easy to spend $100s of dollars on clamps. (This would be an interesting survey...."How much do you have invested in clamps?")

As a beginner, that "clamp money" could be used to buy additional tools and get you further down the woodworking road. (Of course you will need some clamps, but the Kreg jig can reduce the amount you need)

I've had a Kreg jig for many years, and I use it quite often. The best thing about the jig is it works as advertised... and it easy to use.

As others have pointed out, knowing when & where to use a pocket hole needs to be taken into account.

Hope this helps!

-jj

[Greg McCallister]

I bought the mini kreg ($20.00) at my local lowes.
Works great and also bought the beasly locking clamp for around $7.00.
INMO would invest in a biscut cutter instead of the fancy kreg kit. I use mine all the time.

[Bryan Berguson]

I use my older Kreg jig a lot. However, even after using it for a few years, I still can never clamp the wood tight enough to prevent it from shifting when the screws are tightened up on something like a face frame. That's pretty frustrating. I use a face clamp and then also clamp a square in there and still get shifting.

Pete

Pete,

I have the same problem and it's very frustrating! I'm usually working with hickory so I attributed it to that. I have had some luck when I can get the pieces clamped in a Bessey... that *usually* holds them.

Bryan

[Tim Dorcas]

The Kreg system was one of the first systems I bought after getting a tablesaw. There is rarely a project that you can't use it on (unless you're making fine furniture). And as others have pointed out, it's very easy for a beginner to start using. If you look in the gallery section of my site, you will see lots of examples of it in use.

Might I also suggest getting a tablesaw. I couldn't imagine doing any kind of woodworking without it.

The one thing I am glad to hear is that I'm not the only one that experiences shifting. Those stupid 1/16ths add up at the end of a project.

Good luck!

[scott spencer]

Luke - I've got a Kreg Rocket that I like alot. The capability of using pocket holes easily is a great addition to just about any shop IMO. I know alot of folks like the ease of use of the Pro kit. More often than not, I end up just using a single side of the Rocket, and I use my own Wolcraft type quick grip clamp instead of the Kreg clamp....based on most of my use, I'd just grab a basic $20 jig and a bit and use my own clamp. I don't get much shifting if it's clamped wellm, but it's best to ease into it. YMMV...

http://www.epinions.com/content_134673698436

[Dennis Peacock]

All I can say is YES...get it. I have found that I can't do without my Kreg setup.

[Pete Brown]

Pete,

I have the same problem and it's very frustrating! I'm usually working with hickory so I attributed it to that. I have had some luck when I can get the pieces clamped in a Bessey... that *usually* holds them.
Bryan

I agree. I've run into it with maple a lot. I have to clamp the heck out of it. It really defeats the speed advantage when you need precise alignment. (and yes, everything was very square when it was cut. I checked and double-checked. It has to do with how the screw can sometimes lift/separate the connection as it is being made.)

For things that don't need absolutely precise alignment, it has been great. I have used it a ton when building my kitchen cabinets. It's killing me on the face frames though. Luckily I rely on the sommerfeld offset tongue and groove bit set for most face frame to carcass connections.

Pete

[Per Swenson]

Gee,

Maybe I wasn't clear enough.

If you go back and look at the right angle clamp pic I posted
, you will see that the clamp fits in a pocket hole.

You drill two holes. Use this clamp in one of them, combined

with the standard kreg clamp to hold the peices flush.

The parts will not shift...at all.

Now if you do not want to spring for the clamp.

set your collar a 1/16 inch deeper. This will give you a
through hole. Make sure your end is clean, clamp and screw.

Now, If still its a problem, here is how I assemble angled pieces.

I drill them then glue them together with Fast cap 2p 10.

10 seconds later I screw it.

I hope this helps some one become defrustrated.

And yes I have a domino and a biscuit jointer and a few hundred dollars

worth of specialty face frame clamps. You just never know.

Per

[Pete Brown]

Thanks Per

I have one of those clamps, but never considered using them for face frame work. I used them for the carcass work.

They won't work in all situations (you need access to the opposite side of the frame, so joining together a "T" section won't work for two of the pieces), but I can see how they'd help out in corners.

Pete

[Bart Leetch]

I suspect that the festool domino will not greatly reduce my reliance on pocket hole screws. The cost for a hobby shop is a little above & beyond. I am in the process of building a easy & fast to use doweling system to easily align & drill the holes in the cabinet face frame.

[Dennis Hatchett]

The one thing I am glad to hear is that I'm not the only one that experiences shifting. Those stupid 1/16ths add up at the end of a project.


I've never used the whole Kreg jig setup because I just bought their small one hole jig (The kreg mini jig for 20 bucks) and it even comes with the bit and collar. My plan was to just try it out seven years ago and then move up to the whole kit if I liked it.

Well, I love it for face frames, easels, and a lightweight office divider panel that I designed, but I've never felt the need to get the entire kit because this little mini jig works just fine. If I were doing cabinets fulltime I probably would upgrade to a powered pocket hole set up, but I have built several sets of cabinets with just the mini jig.

The rocket, the two hole version, would be nice but it is nearly three times the price (60 bucks) and this works fine. In some situations the mini works even better because you don't have much room for clamping the larger Rocket version.

For you guys that are having the problems with the shifting of the pieces upon assembly, I highly recomend the kreg bench clamp. I inlaid the steel plate into my assembly table and I use it constantly for face frame assembly as well as a hold down for heavy sanding and other miscillaneous tasks. It is super fast and simple as it works like the old holdfasts used in workbenches. I wouldn't want to carve up my workbench to use it but it was nothing to add it to the assembly table. It will hold down those two pieces of a face frame and it virtually eliminates the slip factor in my experience.

http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=4770

"No affiliation" disclaimer - Just like the clamp. Good Luck

[Ralph Okonieski]

Luke,

I am a hobbyist. I've had the Kreg standard kit for about 18 months after using biscuits prior to that. I'm sure you would not regret purchasing one of their pocket hole tools. They are easy to use and do make strong joints.

Just my opinion on your tool plans. Table saw, router, jigsaw and sander in that order. I am not sure what I would do without the TS and that's why it is at the top of the suggestions. I'd put this before the Kreg system in terms of priority.

The sander is pretty much a one-function tool; a lot of "elbow grease" and a wooden block can be used until you have all the other tools. I just took a course in "finishing" and came away from it convinced that I should consider using a cabinet scraper rather than so much sanding. Even with a sander, there is always some hand sanding required somewhere. Look into cabinet scrapers instead of the sander.

Router is very versatile tool - dadoes, edges and so much more. I have two and am considering purchasing at least one more this year.

Jigsaw is also a single function tool but performs it well. Its cutting function is hard to replace with other hand tools.

These are just opinions and worth approximately "2 cents".

[Rob Blaustein]

Gee,

You drill two holes. Use this clamp in one of them, combined

with the standard kreg clamp to hold the peices flush.


Now, If still its a problem, here is how I assemble angled pieces.

I drill them then glue them together with Fast cap 2p 10.

10 seconds later I screw it.

Per
First, I'll say that I really like the Kreg and think it's a good tool to have as one of your first handfull of tools particularly if you're planning to make things like cabinets, faceframes, etc.

I've also suffered from the creep issue and feel like a potato-head because I have that clamp but clearly haven't been using it properly. It makes much more sense to drill pairs of holes that are very close; I've been using the clamp too far away. But I have dealt with it by, as others have, using a Bessey clamp--Joe Unni taught me that trick when I visited his shop.

But Per, what's Fast cap 2p 10?

Also, does anyone else run into the issue, when using plywood, of stripping the wood so that you end up with the screw turning in place? I find I have to be very careful not to set my driver's torque too high, but even then, I still run into this.

[Jim Becker]

IMHO, the kit is a great tool and a good value.

[Fred Giordano]

I,m also a biginner and have the older Kreg system. After watching the video that came with it I decided to make a cabinet with some storage for CD's. The whole cabinet is put together with pocket screws. I used red oak ply on the back and sides. The top is 5 oak boards that were edge joined on the router tabel and screwed together. At the time I had no table saw. The plywood was cut with a circular saw with a Freud blade. The rest was cut with a compound miter saw. All the pocket holes are on the inside. There is not a ounce of glue in this cabinet. I don't no if that's a good thing but after 2 years all the joints are still tight. I made plenty of mistakes but learned a lot. It gave me the confidence to try and learn all the other types of joinery.

[Per Swenson]

Sorry,

Fast cap 2p 10.

In my opinion is the best darn cyanoacrylate adhesive on the market.

What do I know about Krazy glue?

I have been using high end cyano in Model airplane construction,

For, I dunno, ever.

I was secretly gluing up and pre-assembling complicated crown

stuff 20 years ago. Back then it was my little proprietary secret.

Anyway this is the stuff. http://www.fastcap.com/press/2P10_images.asp

It works better then advertised.

Per

[glenn bradley]

Per,

Thanks for the post. I don't have trouble with misaligns when using the right screws but I have wondered about the benefit of the right angle doo-hicky.

[glenn bradley]

I have a mini and my dad got the R-3. Pocket holes come in handy for lots of things and I wouldn't hesitate to get another jig.

[Gary Keedwell]

[quote=Dennis Hatchett]I've never used the whole Kreg jig setup because I just bought their small one hole jig (The kreg mini jig for 20 bucks) and it even comes with the bit and collar. My plan was to just try it out seven years ago and then move up to the whole kit if I liked it.

Well, I love it for face frames, easels, and a lightweight office divider panel that I designed, but I've never felt the need to get the entire kit because this little mini jig works just fine. If I were doing cabinets fulltime I probably would upgrade to a powered pocket hole set up, but I have built several sets of cabinets with just the mini jig.

The rocket, the two hole version, would be nice but it is nearly three times the price (60 bucks) and this works fine. In some situations the mini works even better because you don't have much room for clamping the larger Rocket version.

For you guys that are having the problems with the shifting of the pieces upon assembly, I highly recomend the kreg bench clamp. I inlaid the steel plate into my assembly table and I use it constantly for face frame assembly as well as a hold down for heavy sanding and other miscillaneous tasks. It is super fast and simple as it works like the old holdfasts used in workbenches. I wouldn't want to carve up my workbench to use it but it was nothing to add it to the assembly table. It will hold down those to pieces of a face frame and it virtually eliminates the slip factor in my experience.

http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=4770

I agree...I put one in my utility bench and it made a difference. I no longer get uneven glue-ups.

Gary K.

[Lee Schierer]

I would suggest that you purchase a kreg jig, but you certainly don't need the whole kit they sell now. I use my simple two hole plastic jig and clamp more than the original diecast jig I had originally purchased. Still I would be sort of lost without the kreg system for fastening frames inside cabinets.

[Anthony Anderson]

Luke, I would suggest that you buy the Kreg system. I have the PC 557 biscuit joiner as well as few routers. The Kreg will make building cabinets, drawers, among many other things much quicker and fool proof compared to dados, or the biscuits. And that can be important especially for a beginner. By the way the biscuit joiner rarely gets used now. I almost always reach for the Kreg for both speed and strength. Regards, Bill

[Von Bickley]

Luke,

I am a hobbyist. I've had the Kreg standard kit for about 18 months after using biscuits prior to that. I'm sure you would not regret purchasing one of their pocket hole tools. They are easy to use and do make strong joints.

Just my opinion on your tool plans. Table saw, router, jigsaw and sander in that order. I am not sure what I would do without the TS and that's why it is at the top of the suggestions. I'd put this before the Kreg system in terms of priority.



I agree that the Kreg kit is an excellent tool, but I would have to get a table saw and router first.

[Luke McFadden]

It seems like the Kreg kit would be the cheapest way to build some simple shelves fast. But wouldn't using a router to make some dado joints be just as easy? I'm just trying to decide if I should spend ~$50 now on a Kreg kit so that I can build some things now. Or wait until I can afford a good router set (double base bosch) and some dado bits.

Hum....

[Lincoln Myers]

Is a Kreg kit worth the investment for a beginner?

Yes. Buy it, you won't be dissapointed.

-Linc

[Mark Pruitt]

I use my older Kreg jig a lot. However, even after using it for a few years, I still can never clamp the wood tight enough to prevent it from shifting when the screws are tightened up on something like a face frame. That's pretty frustrating. I use a face clamp and then also clamp a square in there and still get shifting.

Pete, FWIW I tried the Kreg Right Angle Clamp last weekend and it blew my skepticism to bits. Like you I had had everything shift, but the RAC completely eliminated shifting. I should point out that I was using the Rocket and drilling two holes side by side, and using the RAC in one of those holes as I drove the screw in the other.

I should also point out that the two items I use most often have been the Rocket and the Mini Jig, which has been surprising. When I first bought the kit I thought I'd be using the big jig most often.

[Brian Tuftee]

I used the mini Kreg Jig to make a jewelry armiore and a picture frame, it was a snap to use and align. On most of my pieces, I actually glued first, and waited a few minutes to get the glue set partially. That really seemed to keep the pieces from moving around, I only needed minimal clamping. You do need to get a long square drive bit though, just ask my knuckles after driving a few square drive screws by hand with a screwdriver! For the hobbyist who isn't planning on building a kitchen's worth of cabinets, I think the mini Jig is fine.

[Karle Woodward]

Great tool. Buy the $20 kit and it will do all you need. At the price, I'd buy it first.

[Dan Mages]

Great tool with many uses. I recently found a new use when putting in base board along a 24 ft wall. I simply put in 2 pocket screws at each intersection of the baseboard and put it up. It looks seamless and will never separate!

[John Ricci]

I have an older K-2 which although not used extensively, is indispensible for certain jobs like fast plant stands etc. for SWMBO and even some projects of my own:rolleyes:

[Mark Duginske]

I very rarely do anthing that does not use one of the Kreg tools.

One of the things that is important as a biginner is building your shop,
making jigs, tables, etc. The pocket hole requires little clamping because
the screw secures the pieces together. It is like having a third hand.

With a chop saw, a drill and a Kreg jig one could do an awful lot of work.

Pocket holes have become a standard of the industry for a reason. Put the holes on the "inside" and you will not see them.

Mark Duginske

[Per Swenson]

Mark has made a excellent point.

I would like to add to it.

In my all day, all night job, I have to make a lot of jigs.

Quickly. I don't have time for glue to dry.

Pocket holes, course thread in MDF.

But Per, I thought screws in MDF stank.

They do. Temporary disposable jigs folks.

Per

[Bill White]

Could not agree more. My older model Kreg is a mainstay in my shop. I would love to justify the new full system 'cause it isn't much more expensive than the older one I bought at the Atlanta WW show 8-9 yrs ago.
Bill

[Scott Loven]

I sell all of the Kreg pocket hole jigs. When people ask me what I recommend I tell them that they all accomplish the same thing, they give you a hole drilled in a piece of wood at a 15 degree angle. The Major difference is versatility, speed and convenience. To me the clamps and having the correct screw are more important then the jig. I started with the Mini and now use the k3 on my woodworking projects. The R2 and R3 are great also. Also look at the Kreg trim dvd. Lots of great ideas for woodworking and fixing-up the house.
Scott

[Steve Clardy]

Custom built. Furnish your own router.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=42364 Post #10

[Charles McKinley]

The longer screws for 2 inch materials are great for making outfeed tables and quick work benches.

[Jeff Heil]

I have the older complete setup and use it frequently for cabinets and face frames. My dad kept drooling over it and I gave him the smaller rocket jig for christmas. He loves it and is building an entertainment center for his basement. Consider the rocket kit for $50 if you don't want to spend the money for the whole kit. FWIW I tried other screws but went back to Kreg's in bulk as they are just a nice screw.

[frank shic]

steve, how are you mounting the router so that it makes the graded pocket? is the router carriage guided by some form of ramp? that's a fascinating design! how much are you selling those for?

i recently sold off my kreg jig because i got tired of having to clamp down everything so tightly to avoid creeping. my understanding is that the lower angle pocket hole cutters like the pc 550 and the pc 552 minimize creeping to the point that you could simply use hand pressure to hold the mating piece while you drive the pocket screw.

[Steve Clardy]

With a rocker mount Frank.

PM or email me for details