Banding Maple Plywood

[Jeff Caskie]

I asked this question over on BT3, but so far haven't received any responses. I would like to hear opinions on edge banding maple veneer plywood. I was originally leaning towards the iron on banding... but a subsequent post on one of these sites led me to change my mind in favor of 1/2" (or so) strips of solid stock cut a little wide and then flush trimmed to fit. My initial issue/question comes in to play when I went to purchase some solid maple stock. What I have seen so far, does not appear very similar in color to the plwood I have already started using. This makes me think that the banding will look too dissimilar rather than blending together like I had hoped. Will the colors differences be more apparent or less apparent after the wood is finished? Would I find better matching wood at a non Lowes/HD establishment? I imagine the answer to the second one is yes.. but I don't currently know where the nearest alternatives are. My other question regarding the banding... is the timing of it. Do you normally apply the banding to the pieces before they are assembled, or after?

edit- this is also my first project and first go at banding anything. Any additional comments etc would be helpful.


thanks,

Jeff

[Jeffrey Makiel]

Hi Jeff,
The thin veneer edge tape is usually available in either pressure sensitve adhesive or iron on. Check out Grizzly, Rockler and Woodworkers Supply to name a few.

When I use tape, I usually use the iron on type because I can easily reheat the tape and reposition it if necessary. I also think it sticks better over the long term. I use a regular clothes iron set to 'cotton' with no water in it. I use a Virutex razor to trim the veneer edges flush. You can also use a flush trim bit in your router table with a tall auxiliary fence and run the panel thru on edge, or you can buy "Band-it" razor tool which is cheaper than the Virutex.

Solid edgebanding is a little more work. You have to prepare the stock and apply wood glue and clamps. If the pieces are small, you can use tape as the clamps. The benefit to solid wood is that it is more durable of an edge for applications like shelving, and you can also route an edge detail if desired.

As far as matching the edging (tape or solid) to the plywood veneer, you should get an easy match unless the plywood was subjected to a lot of light or dirt. Maple is usually an easy match, but you can also try birch tape.

As far as finishing (stain or clear coat), tape behaves the same as solid wood in my experience.

-Jeff :)

[frank shic]

you will rarely be able to find a 100% match for veneer edgebanding for plywood but it sure does save time! i've been using the heat activated (iron on) BIRCH edgebanding that you find at home depot and it works pretty well. the other alternative is to get some of fastcap's fastedge which i've started using without the extra step of ironing. get one of those edge trimmers from rockler or virutex and an end trimmer from virutex and you will FLY through the plywood compared to solid wood edgebanding (how many clamps will you need???). you will need to either file or use a 7 or 8 degree bevel router bit to further clean up the edges so that nothing catches on them and pulls off the edgebanding prematurely. always band before assembly.

[Jeff Caskie]

I use a Virutex razor to trim the veneer edges flush. You can also use a flush trim bit in your router table with a tall auxiliary fence and run the panel thru on edge, or you can buy "Band-it" razor tool which is cheaper than the Virutex.

Solid edgebanding is a little more work. You have to prepare the stock and apply wood glue and clamps. If the pieces are small, you can use tape as the clamps. The benefit to solid wood is that it is more durable of an edge for applications like shelving, and you can also route an edge detail if desired.

I was pretty set on solid edgebanding for this one.. as I was planning on doubling up my ply for the top and bottom.

I do want to look into getting some quality edge banding tools though.. as I want to refinish my kitchen cabinets soon. I will check out the Virutex. Can you use a handheld router or laminate trimmer for doing the flush trim? I do have some flush trim bits, but I was also thinking of getting one of those new spiral bits w/ top and bottom bearings for this purpose.

[Jeff Caskie]

you will need to either file or use a 7 or 8 degree bevel router bit to further clean up the edges so that nothing catches on them and pulls off the edgebanding prematurely. always band before assembly.

I haven't noticed any bevel degrees listed in the catalogs. Do you have a reference for the bit you are referring to?

[Jeffrey Makiel]

Jeff,
Laminate trimmers are a bit tippy when used on the edge of a 3/4" board. When the part is mobile, I prefer a router table with a tall fence instead. I sometimes I 'climb feed' the laminate in the opposite direction of the normal feed direction to reduce splintering on grainy veneers. The edgebanding is so thin that its safe for me. But I mostly use hand tools since my projects are small.

If you are considering laminating faceframes for a kitchen reface project, I recommend hand tools like the Virutex and a sharp razor knife with a straight edge. A metal working file (fine tooth), or a small board with sandpaper glued to it, is handy too. Since the Virutex cannot get into the corners, the razor knife will finish the job.

Laminate tape also comes in widths up to 2 3/8" wide, but your selection of wood species becomes limited via the normal woodworking catalogs. I would not like to reface face frames with solid stock. It seems too difficult with little or no aesthetic improvement.

There are flush trim bits available that have a slight bevel as Frank mentioned. However, I generally don't use them. Instead, after I trim the edge, I lightly run some fine (150 or 220 grit) sandpaper along the edge to smoothen it and prepare it for finishing.

-Jeff :)

[Jeff Caskie]

If you are considering laminating faceframes for a kitchen reface project, I recommend hand tools like the Virutex and a sharp razor knife with a straight edge.
Made a trip out to Woodcraft today and picked up a few things. I grabbed some of the iron on banding and some FastEdge. The FastEdge is a much closer match (in color) to my existing maple plywood so I think I will use that over the two. I also found some solid stock that appears to be a pretty close match as well... or at least as good as I think I will get.

Which Virutex laminate trimmer were you referring to? When I first googled it, I came up with this (http://www.amazon.com/Virutex-C015L-Portable-Handheld-Laminate/dp/B000071NUW/ref=pd_sxp_f_pt/104-9873897-0359919)one on Amazon. However when I went to Woodcraft, they had this (http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=5523&cs=5544) one by the same name

The salesman favored the cheapest one here (http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=5918).

They also had this (http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=5480) one in stock which was the most expensive.

[Craig Feuerzeig]

The first one is a slitter, used to cut your own strips of veneer or laminate. The second one is the edge trimmer your looking for. The other two are the same thing but only one sided. The Virutex does both sides at the same time. A plane blade would work fine though... but the Virutex end trimmer is a must have.

[Kelly C. Hanna]

I am not big on banding unless you are doing curved work. I've never had any luck with it myself. If it is a thin layer you want you could always glue on a strip of 1/4" stock...it will be much more durable over the years.