Need HELP on using my jointer

[Benjimin Young]

I have a Delta 6 inch jointer, 37-275X X5
The short story is I cannot get a good edge. My boards end up smaller at each end and fatter in the middle

Long story
The jointer was new when I got it about a year ago and I used a good stright edge and square (Lee Valley) to check the machine when I first set it up.

I have practiced (a lot) using old pine 3/4 siding, first ripped straight to 4 inches on my table saw, some of it flat, some cupped, and some warped. I have also practiced on some hardwood ripped straight on all four sides to 1" x 2 3/4" so there was no cupping or warping.

I have tried the technique of keeping light hand over hand pressure on the infeed end with the pressure staying on the infeed end until the whole piece clears the blade

I have also tried the above technique but switching pressure to the out feed side when 75% of the material is on the outfeed end.

Another item worth noting, on the flat I almost always get a lot of chatter on anything over 1 /32" cut

I never end up with a good jointed piece, on edge or on flat. Because of this I hardly use my jointer and rely soley on my table saw and planer. I need to fix that!!

My questions are two fold.

What am I doing wrong?
Are there any good videos or articles on the web worth viewing?

Ben

[joseph j shields]

Ben,

I recently got a jointer and here's what I learned in short period of time:

#1. Make sure that the blade TDC is perfectly aligned with the top of the outfeed table.

#2. When you push the wood thru... use as little downward pressure as possible.

#3. When there is enough board on the outfeed table pull (drag)the board from the outfeed table across the cutter.

#4. I notice some of the same things are are dealing with... changing my technique fixed everything. I, like you, have practiced on lots of pine :)

Here is a good link that has some videos on aligning and using a jointer...

http://www.newwoodworker.com/videos.html

I found this very helpful.

I'm sure some other veterans will chime in with more suggestions.

Good luck!

-jj

[Mike Cutler]

Benjimin.

These three sentences bother me;

"I have tried the technique of keeping light hand over hand pressure on the infeed end with the pressure staying on the infeed end until the whole piece clears the blade

I have also tried the above technique but switching pressure to the out feed side when 75% of the material is on the outfeed end.

Another item worth noting, on the flat I almost always get a lot of chatter on anything over 1 /32" cut"


I'm not sure if there is a typo in the first sentence or not.

Pressure is not applied on the material on the infeed table, after the initial material clears the blades and is on the outfeed table.
The technique should be to place the material on the infeed table. Use the amount of pressure necessary to keep the material registered to the fence and begin to move the material into and through the jointer. As soon as practical move the left hand to the material on the outfeed table and apply downward pressure, and pressure to keep the material registered to the fence. Don't let the right hand fight the left hand. The right hand should be steadying the material,applying forward movement,and keeping it registered to the fence. The left is applying the pressure, moving the material, and also keeping it registered to the fence.

A 1/32" deep cut, on a 6" jointer is actually quite a bit for face jointing. That's a lot of material. My jointer is set for somewhere between a 32nd and a 64th, and never moves. The blades could also need some cleaning/sharpening from what you have posted.

Your blades at top should be just a few thousandths above the outfeed table.
If you were to set a piece of material on edge and position over the cutterhead, and mark a line for a visual reference. As the cutterhead is manually rotated clockwise the material should move an 1/8" or so backwards towards the infeed table when the blades catch the edge.

Additionally check to see of your infeed and outfeed table are parallel, or coplaner with each other

[Tom Jones III]

If the outfeed table is too high then you will get tapered boards which is probably what you are describing. If the outfeed table is too low then you will get snipe on the last inch of your boards. (It is possible that I got the too high and too low symptoms switched but I think this is right)

If I were you, I would get this book, (I noticed that there is also a DVD for it) pull the blades out of the jointer and go through the entire setup process again with the book. You will be glad for the experience and you will be happy that you have mastered the jointer.

Mastering Woodworking Machines

by Mark Duginske (http://search.barnesandnoble.com/booksearch/results.asp?ATH=Mark+Duginske&z=y), Andrew Schultz (http://search.barnesandnoble.com/booksearch/results.asp?ATH=Andrew+Schultz&z=y) (Editor)

http://images.barnesandnoble.com/images/9870000/9877737.gif (http://search.barnesandnoble.com/booksearch/imageviewer.asp?ean=9780942391985&z=y)

Paperback
ISBN: 0942391985 (http://sawmillcreek.org/)

[Matt Day]

As Mike said, it sounds like you don't understand the proper technique. Practice doesn't help if you're not practicing the right things!

FWIW, I have the same jointer and don't have any problems.

[Jake Helmboldt]

Ben, Mike pretty much covers it. You only apply pressure on the infeed just long enough to get stock past the cutter and enough surface over the outfeed table for you to begin applying pressure.

By applying pressure for so long on the infeed you are lifting the board, ever so slightly, off the outfeed, creating that bowed cut. The outfeed table is what registers the cut and you are effectively dragging the stock over the cutter after the new face has been established.

I'll add something to Mike's comments; apply only as much pressure as is needed to move the stock across the jointer. Applying even a little downward force can compress the stock and push the bow (or crook, or cup) out of the wood while it passes over the cutterhead, only to return as the wood springs back.

Wax your tables and/or rub in talc to keep them slick. Using push pads/blocks push the stock as much forward as you are down. You need apply only enough pressure to keep the stock firmly on the table and against the fence and to prevent the stock from chattering over the knives.

Jake

[Lee Schierer]

The technique questions have already been addressed. With regard to teh chatter you have to learn to read the board so the grain is oriented correctly. grain should face this way \\\\\\\ when feeding this way<-. feeding grain that runs //////// this way <- will result in tear out and chatter. It atakes a bit of practice to get it right and sometimes you still have to swap ends for the best overall cut on swirling grain pieces.

[Jerry Olexa]

My short answer is move the light pressure to the outfeed side as quickly as possible. Even when 75% of the stock is still on the infeed side! Also, wax your bed with a paste wax to provide a smooth sliding surface and PRACTICE on scraps. It'll work..