What bowl finish do you like to use? I've been

[Alan Tolchinsky]

using wipe on poly for a bowl finish? Is this a weird finish for "decorative" bowls? What finishes do you like to use on bowls? Sometimes I feel my finishing method takes a long time especially when I have to apply 3-5 coats. Thanks Alan in Md.

[Wolf Kiessling]

using wipe on poly for a bowl finish? Is this a weird finish for "decorative" bowls? What finishes do you like to use on bowls? Sometimes I feel my finishing method takes a long time especially when I have to apply 3-5 coats. Thanks Alan in Md.

Unless it is a carved bowl, I like to use either danish oil, my homebrew of BLO, mineral spirits and wax and recently I have started using Velvit Oil. I like to apply them while the piece is spinning on the lathe. It usually takes 3 to 8 coats, depending on the wood and final sheen that I want. Each coat takes a day because of drying time in between coats but it never takes more than 5 to 10 minutes a day.

Sometimes there is wet sanding of the coats involved, wiping with paper towels or using steel wool, it all depends on what I want the final result to be. Nevertheless, the 5 to 10 minutes apply unless wet sanding is involved, then I have to add about 15 minutes.

Carved bowls are an entirely different manner in that they can't be finished while spinning on the machine. Each case is different so I can't generalize.

Wolf

[Jim Becker]

For the most part, I use some form of "danish oil" or similar (Watco, Minwax Antique Oil Finish, etc), applied while the piece is still on the lathe and "pushed" by using the heat of friction from a soft paper towel to partially cure it. Several application like this are done and once the piece has set for a week or so, I buff it out with the Beall buffing system. I've also used "just wax" for some pieces and some lacquer on others. But most of my turnings get the oil/varnish mixture.

If you plan on buffing, poly would be a poor choice as it's abrasion resistance makes it a lot harder to get a fine finish. IMHO, polyurethane varnish should only be used when it's properties are needed for a particular project...there are so many great finishes available! But that's me...your needs or opinion might be different any whatever it is, you're correct!

[Barbara Gill]

I use a penetrating oil for all my bowls except for holly,followed by Beall buffing. To keep them looking good I use Clapham's salad bowl finish. For holly I just buff with Beall and use Clapham's. If I wanted the holly to look like old ivory, I would use the oil finish.

[Kirk (KC) Constable]

I use HUT pen polish wax sticks on decorative bowls. Occasionally, I'll use a light application of WATCO for some 'coloring', but most times just the wax stick. Obviously, this isn't very durable, but it polishes up silky smooth, looks good for several years, and takes about 5 minutes. :)

KC

[Alan Tolchinsky]

I use HUT pen polish wax sticks on decorative bowls. Occasionally, I'll use a light application of WATCO for some 'coloring', but most times just the wax stick. Obviously, this isn't very durable, but it polishes up silky smooth, looks good for several years, and takes about 5 minutes. :)

KC

Hi Kirk,

Thanks for the info. Could you elaborate on how you apply the wax sticks? Do you just push it into the turning bowl. I guess I'd like to know what steps you do in your wax finish. Thanks Alan

[Alan Tolchinsky]

For the most part, I use some form of "danish oil" or similar (Watco, Minwax Antique Oil Finish, etc), applied while the piece is still on the lathe and "pushed" by using the heat of friction from a soft paper towel to partially cure it. Several application like this are done and once the piece has set for a week or so, I buff it out with the Beall buffing system. I've also used "just wax" for some pieces and some lacquer on others. But most of my turnings get the oil/varnish mixture.

If you plan on buffing, poly would be a poor choice as it's abrasion resistance makes it a lot harder to get a fine finish. IMHO, polyurethane varnish should only be used when it's properties are needed for a particular project...there are so many great finishes available! But that's me...your needs or opinion might be different any whatever it is, you're correct!

Thanks Jim, When you apply the "danish oil" to the piece, do you let it dry a day before the next application or do you just do one right after the other on the lathe? Thanks again. Alan

[Alan Tolchinsky]

using wipe on poly for a bowl finish? Is this a weird finish for "decorative" bowls? What finishes do you like to use on bowls? Sometimes I feel my finishing method takes a long time especially when I have to apply 3-5 coats. Thanks Alan in Md.
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[Ken Salisbury]

My preferred bowl finish is Minwax Tung Oil Finish followed up with Minwax Finishing Wax. Usually 4 to 6 coats of oil, applied while on the lathe and a couple applications of wax. As stated previously the time required between applications of oil can be reduced by apply pressure when buffing so as to generate heat maximizing oil penetration and helping the drying process.

[Jim Becker]

Thanks Jim, When you apply the "danish oil" to the piece, do you let it dry a day before the next application or do you just do one right after the other on the lathe? Thanks again. Alan

I apply the finish "liberally"...let it set for about 10 minutes under the hot halogen lights over my lathe..."buff" it out with a paper towel to create heat (I use those Scotts's shop rags in the blue and yellow square box from the big box as they are lint-free)...apply again and repeat. Depending on the piece and species, I'll apply two to about five applications while the piece is still on the lathe. Any small area on the foot that didn't get finish before parting off gets taken care of manually and "disappears" once the piece is buffed a week or so later.

I first learned this technique from Marlen Kemmet of WOOD Magazine when I visited with him a couple of years ago, although it's not a unique process. He's been using for for years on the small southwestern style hollow vessels he likes to turn...the same ones that were featured in a magazine article years ago and in the current reprint available as a downloadable seminar from the magazine's site.

[Ed Marks]

Maybe I'm the odd guy out here. I use Mylands friction polish. Put on a light application with the lathe stopped. Don't be to liberal. Let it sit for 2-3 minutes. Put some on a rag, spin up the lathe, and "buff" it in with friction. Don't over do the amount you apply or you'll land up with "streaks" that match the grain of whatever rag you are using. The result is a "glass like" finish.

Another favorite finish that is not as glossy is to just use Bartleys Gel Varnish. A few applications as described by others builds up a nice satin finish.

For bowls that are intended for food, I use Walnut oil and bees wax. You can get Walnut oil at the supermarket and bees wax at Woodcraft or just about any other place that caters to turners.

The sanding phase has a large effect on the finish. I normally go up to 400 or 600 for decorative quality work.. My method is to start at 80 or 100 and ship every other grit.

[Jim Becker]

Maybe I'm the odd guy out here. I use Mylands friction polish. Put on a light application with the lathe stopped. Don't be to liberal. Let it sit for 2-3 minutes. Put some on a rag, spin up the lathe, and "buff" it in with friction. Don't over do the amount you apply or you'll land up with "streaks" that match the grain of whatever rag you are using. The result is a "glass like" finish.

Mylands is nice, but I don't prefer it for bowls and vessels...it's easy to over-apply and get gummy when buffing it out on these larger items. (Not just my experience...several folks on a nother forum commented on this in the past) But it's great for pens and other small turnings, IMHO. You just can't beat the ease of application and convenience!

Zinsner is bringing out a "special formulation" of their shellac product for turners. I got a sample at a recent show, but haven't had the opportunity to try it. I'll do that on a few holiday gifts that I need to turn out [sic]...

[Kirk (KC) Constable]

Hi Kirk,

Thanks for the info. Could you elaborate on how you apply the wax sticks? Do you just push it into the turning bowl. I guess I'd like to know what steps you do in your wax finish. Thanks Alan

Rub the stick against the spinning bowl, wipe off (immediately) with an old tee-shirt or paper towel. It's not a liquid wax, so you really can't beat it for speed and simplicity.

KC