Euro Slider Safety?

[Robert Strasser]

I've been reading about the weiner... I mean SawStop. I wish there was something more controversial to read about. Anyway, one comment that repeatedly comes up is that for the money (or just a little more) you could get a euro slider, or sliding table saw and also have the inherent safety features of a sliding table saw.
I've never used a euro slider and don't know much about them. I asked MiniMax for some info and they sent me a DVD that was a remake of a VHS tape made 5 years ago. The DVD had no practical information for me... especially the "inherent" safety features.
For the owners of a euro slider, please tell me how ripping a 1 x 6 into two 2-1/2 inch pieces is safer on a sliding table saw. I really don't know.
I am considering buying the MiniMax SC3W.

[Todd Solomon]

I've been reading about the weiner... I mean SawStop. I wish there was something more controversial to read about. Anyway, one comment that repeatedly comes up is that for the money (or just a little more) you could get a euro slider, or sliding table saw and also have the inherent safety features of a sliding table saw.
I've never used a euro slider and don't know much about them. I asked MiniMax for some info and they sent me a DVD that was a remake of a VHS tape made 5 years ago. The DVD had no practical information for me... especially the "inherent" safety features.
For the owners of a euro slider, please tell me how ripping a 1 x 6 into two 2-1/2 inch pieces is safer on a sliding table saw. I really don't know.
I am considering buying the MiniMax SC3W.

Robert,

I think in some ways the SawStop is the safest saw on the market. But the euro sliders are also very safe. For ripping your 1 x 6 into two, I'll re-post an answer that I gave a while back...

"I can think of six features that make 'em safe for ripping:

1. Riving knife (Sawstop also has). I have never, ever had kick-back on my sliders in the 5 years that I've used them. The riving knife virtually eliminates the possibility, if properly adjusted.
2. High/low fence: Euro saws come with rip fences that can be flipped so that the top of the fence is very low (about .2" or so). This allows you to rip narrow widths, and allows room for your pushstick, often while using a blade guard.
3. Parallel cutting jig- Allows you to rip on the slider. This is an option for Felders. For MMs, you can make your own out of an Incra fence, or other ways.
4. Blade guards- Attach to the riving knife, and don't get in the way, so you won't be inclined to remove them. Optional overhead guard on some machines. My Felder K700S Plus has a giant clear window in the overhead guard, so you can see what you're cutting.
5. "Shortie fence"- You can slide the fence towards the front of the saw, so that it ends just as the cut begins, preventing the wood from being pinched between the fence and blade.
6. Ripping shoe and clamp- This is what Wayne referred to. You can straight-line rip rough stock safely on the slider, using these (shown in Felder and MM videos- kind of hard to describe)."

For cross-cutting, the euro slider has the more obvious advantage of clamping your work down to the sliding carriage. You can stand literally feet away from the blade, and just push the sliding table.

Todd

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

For the owners of a euro slider, please tell me how ripping a 1 x 6 into two 2-1/2 inch pieces is safer on a sliding table saw. I really don't know.
I am considering buying the MiniMax SC3W.
For inherrent safety the slider places you in a safe position relative to the blade. When you are using thre sliding table You must stand off to the left (your left) of the sliding table which is anywhere from 11 - 15 inches wide depending on the saw.

Depending on how you rip that long 1x6 there is either all the difference in the world or no difference at all from a conventional saw.

a.) You can use a rip fence - no difference except for the riving knife.

b.) you can use the cross cut slider. Set it along the slider, clamp it, and push - all the difference in the world.
You don't go near the blade and you are not in the path of any kickback.

When I cut big things or am working with little things I can use the ability of the clamps to fix my work or my fictures quite securely.


I find the slider to be way more safe than the conventional saw I retired.
Plus it allows me to do ever so much more than I could before with way more repeatability and accuracy.

I have ended up using the sliding table in a lot of ways not otherwise available. I't my sliding tabloe for my router table and my tilting router head. I have a Dovetail Key sled I made that mounts to the slider. The thing really takes all the guesswork out of things. Now I just set whatever angle I want and cut no test piece no measuring. Then I go back to 90-Degrees and take no measurement & no test cuts I just keep working.

Minimax is fine. Don't cheat yourself look at Felder and Hammer too.

[Robert Strasser]

Thank you very much for taking the time for the thoughtful replies. It clears things up for me.
I currently have a PM66 with overhead guard and Bies splitter. Riving knife would be better, but it works well. I was thinking of putting on a used Delta Unifence to get the High/Low and Shorty fence option. I use the Festool option for the panels I cut as well as breaking down larger sheet goods. But the slider would make for more consistent and SQUARE cuts of the panels.
Thanks especially for mentioning the Felder parallel cutting option. I will check on that. I have not communicated with them yet. Actually, they have not communicated with me yet. I've sent inquiries via the Felder web site but have not heard from them. Do the Felder people want hobby woodworker business?
Thanks again,
Bob

[Paul B. Cresti]

See links below for many uses I have found in using my slider. There are many more also but these will get you started. If you want my opinion on brands email me directly.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=31545
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=29871
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=28088
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=26285
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=25737
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=24502
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=23774
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=23389
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=34708

[Simon Dupay]

If you asked me if you use almost all solid lumber then I would say to get a cabinet saw a slider is designed around cutting sheet goods and crosscutting, not ripping lumber

[Jim Becker]

For the owners of a euro slider, please tell me how ripping a 1 x 6 into two 2-1/2 inch pieces is safer on a sliding table saw. I really don't know.

I now rarely use the rip fence unless it's a very narrow rip and for convenience. With the board clamped to the wagon (the sliding part), my hands are never close to the blade during or after the cut until the blade is not moving. When you combined that with the riving knife, you've pretty much reduced a lot of the inherent danger of the table saw to your body. No kickbacks and no proximity to the blade.


If you asked me if you use almost all solid lumber then I would say to get a cabinet saw a slider is designed around cutting sheet goods and crosscutting, not ripping lumber

This is often a first impression. But folks like me who generally use solid stock find a lot of value in the slider. I'd not be happy about going back to an American-style cabinet saw. The repeatability, precision, absolutely ready to join edges and other factors are wonderful...once you get used to them. It's important not to pre-judge on this and I can tell you that after not quite a year using mine, I'm still learning new techniques and still fighting off old ones. But loving every minute of it.

BTW, this is an older thread from not quite a year ago.

[Joe Mioux]

this may be a bit in left field, but does the slider ever get in the way when you just want to make a few quick cuts?

It seems the advantage of the slider is the slider, but how does the saw perform when doing some really quick cuts without the need for the slider?

On the long slider tables, does that support ever get in your way when making the above mentioned small or quick cuts?

thanks

[Jim Becker]

The structure of the slider "can" affect your comfort if you choose to always make those quick cuts in the same way you did with a cabinet saw. This is largely because you cannot stand in the same place you are used to. This is why you learn to do things differently over time. As with any machine, you need to learn how to use it most effectively. I use the fence less and less now...and while that sometimes requires slightly more setup, I get better quality cuts and a safer pace to my work.

Let me say right up front...this format of saw is not for everyone. It's absolutely not the right machine for anyone not willing to take the time to adapt to new methods of work!

[Chris Zenda]

Once you get a slider you'll wonder how you managed without it.