Recomended CC's for chainsaw

[Mike Vickery]

All right I wanted to see I could get some opinions on what cc chainsaw would be a good purchase.

For the record it is most of my wood is already bucked when I get it and I am cutting out the pith and rounding it to get ready for the lathe. Mostly very hardwood like Mesquite and Acacia in the 12 to 18 inch range.

Ocassionally I need to buck logs as well usually in the same 12 to 18 inch range. Sometimes a bit larger but that is the normal range.

Thnaks in advance for your opinions

[George Tokarev]

Diameter of log isn't as important in your choice as diameter of lathe. I think you ought to have a bar at least two inches longer than the swing of your lathe so you don't bury the nose when ripping. Can do some bad things to you. Four's better.

So once you decide on bar length, you can consult your manufacturer's recommendation for displacement. I'd rather too much than too little power, so I'd shy away from the low end displacement.

Avoid any saw that forces you to use "safety" chain exclusively. Crosscuts almost OK, but ripping is nowhere.

[Travis Stinson]

I would look into the 60cc range- Husky 359, Stihl 361, etc.

[Dario Octaviano]

Mike,

I know some will jump me but whatever you get...I hope it is either Stihl or Husqvarna.

55+ cc should be enough for your purposes...but like lathes, bigger is better.

I have a Husqvarna 55R and it serves me well...but when I encounter big trees my Stihl 044 gets the job done quick! I sold it though so I am down with the 55R.

Here is a few references...

http://www.southwestfastener.com/productsHusqChainsaw.htm

http://store.baileys-online.com/cgi-bin/baileys/scan/arg=%22/fi=products/st=db/tf=sortorder%2cdescription/co=yes/sf=category/se=10139/op=eq/ml=5.html

BTW...if I can only have one saw and money is of no object, I will buy a Stihl 440 or this Husvarna 575XP :D
http://store.baileys-online.com/cgi-bin/baileys/1975?mv_session_id=okHcIsHf&product_sku=HU%20575

[Bill Klein]

I agree with Dario and Travis. I'm in construction and use a chainsaw frequently. By no means am I a logger/tree feller. But I believe if you go much larger than 60cc's you should have a real familiarity with the larger saws, they can buck and catch quite harshly. I would recommend staying in the 60 cc range and if you have money left over consider upgrading to a carbide tooth chain. Big expense at initial outlay but through time it will pay for itself in duration of sharpness and ease of cutting. Just my 2 cents.

[Mike Vickery]

Dang guys I was thinking in the 45 cc range.
I do not know much about chainsaw but I went with some guys to collect some mesquite a couple weeks ago and one had a 42 cc saw and the other a 55cc saw. The 42cc did not seem to have any trouble with the 16 to 18 inch mesquites and he left the big 25 incher to the 55cc saw that seemed to handle it no problem.
Oh and yes Dario Stihl and Husky are the only two I am considering. I am leaning towards Stihl because they seem the have better support in my area.

[Dario Octaviano]

Support is indeed very important.

Sharp chains is 50% of the equation and equally as important as the cc ;)

Do buy extra chains, Bailey's have good price. While there, buy some sharpening supplies...their round files are cheap and good.

Don't forget the oil mix...most new CS users kill their chainsaw engine by forgetting it. Always shake the container before refilling too.

Also consider buying some safety gear like eye goggles, ear protection, chaps, steel toes shoes, etc.

Good luck and be safe!

[Raymond Overman]

I'll second Travis' post. I have a Husky 350 and wish I had the 359 occasionally. If your budget is too tight, the 350 will work. You just can't push it as hard.

[Dennis Peacock]

Travis and others have you headed in the right direction. I have the Stihl MS361 and really like it a lot. Best chainsaw I've ever had. Here's a few things I'd like to point out:

1. Sharpen your chains often. It's easier to touch up a chain than to have to strongly re-file your chains.
2. Use the best 2-cycle oil made for Air Cooled engines. Other oils won't allow the engine to cool as well.
3. Always use a good bar/chain oil that has the "anti-sling" additive in it. I used to use the Wal-Mart cheap oil and noticed that the chain wasn't wet with lubricant, but was getting spun off the chain. I've switched to Stihl's brand of oil and the chain is wet with lubricant and doesn't sling off as readily.
4. Always use HEARING PROTECTION. Many people don't realize the loosing your hearing as you age is a "cummulative thing" and not an "all of a sudden" loss of hearing. If you want to be able to hear when you get older, then use the best hearing protection you can. Chainsaw's are rated for one of the highest noise levels that causes hearing loss.
5. Get and WEAR a good set of chaps. A guy I work with was just trimming up a felled tree when the saw bounced off a passing limb and just "nicked" his left knee. 175 stitches and $600 doctor bill later, he has decided to purchase and wear chaps.
6. One last thing....Always Wear some type of EYE Protection. We only get one set of eyes to live with.

All this and $4 will get you a nice cup of coffee somewhere. But be safe when you sling a saw. ;)

[Hilel Salomon]

I have both Stihls and Husqvarnas and-for smaller stuff, Echos -which to me are better than most of the smaller, lighter Stihls and all of the smaller Huskys. The Important things-and I agree with the above advice about oil, chain oil and sharpness of blades- is to keep the filter clean and rev the saw high before you make the cut. The chainsaw will work much better when it's revved up high before the initial cut than when it is revved up during the cut. Try not to get the blade into dirt or sand as this will shorten the life of the blade tremendously. Also Stihls and Huskys act differently. Most Stihl 2 cycle tools do not need much effort with the choke out because doing so will flood the carbureter. Huskys won't flood as easily but require a bit more patience.
As to cc's and models- Avoid the cheaper models of both brands- as they are probably farmed out to other manufacturers. Maybe it's just me, but the "made in Sweden or Germany" stickers inspire more confidence. I have two Husky 365's and one 372 , as well as one Stihl 36 (now 360) and one 66(now 660) The latter is definitely overkill, but all of them cut beautifully. If you'll be working on smaller stuff and limbs, the stihl 200t is fantastic but very, very expensive. I've had nothing but good luck with Echo CS346 and CS345. As to where you can buy them, Ebay sometimes has good deals, Alamia sells Huskys and I've dealt pleasantly and successfully with them. The also sell Echos, as does Mayberry's . Bailey's and Masdens have deservedly excellent reputations, but avoid buying saws at Lowe's or HD. You won't find discounts on Stihls on the internet, but local dealers- I have a great one here may be able to work with you. I would strongly urge you-if you opt for a Stihl-to buy one where it can be serviced easily. Most hardware stores can work on Huskys but you really should get a Stihl done by a dealer. On that count, ask around. The two Stihl dealers I have worked with are great, but I've heard horror stories about another one.
Lastly, remember that chainsaw work is usually number one or two in terms of serious injuries!!!! Hard hat, eye and ear protection and chaps aren't luxuries. They're absolutely essential!
Good luck, Hilel.

[Martin Braun]

I went through the same quandry a year and a half ago. I ended up with the Stihl Farmboss. The one thing I learned the hard way, is if you are going to cut the old growth stuff you find on the old farms, etc, you're best bet is a carbide tipped chain. Otherwise your blade goes dull half way through the log. It happened to me in some mesquite in South Phoenix last year.

I got my saw from A to Z, and they have always been great for service, etc. Don't know if they are the best on price, but they have always been helpful & knowledgeable. They also sell chaps & all the gear.

[Mike Vickery]

Thanks for the input everyone.
Martin - I actually checked out A to Z on Sunday. They are the closest full service dealer to my house (SE Gilbert). Everyone seems to have the same price except one place in Chandler, but I just dropped off a small Echo their that my dad gave me to get checked out and they said it would be a week and a half before they can even look at the saw, so I would be a little leary of buying from them.

[Ian Abraham]

Mike

My 2c worth ;)

A decent saw around 50cc will do what you want, and is about as safe as a chainsaw can be for a beginner. I agree with the Stihl / Husky recomendations. But Dolmar, Shindiawa, Echo, Oleo-mac are also worth a look if you have a decent local dealer.

Any 50cc saw with a sharp chain will outcut a 70cc with blunt chain. Get a sharpening kit (file and guide) and practice your filing :)

Stay away from carbide chains, unless you are cutting dirty tree stumps etc. They cost an arm and a leg, they dont cut as fast and you need a diamond grinding wheel to sharpen them.

Most manufactures make various grades of saws for professional full time use, farmers / firewood cutters, and homeowners. A saw like the MS361 is designed for full time use, it's more powerfull, durable and lighter.. but it costs more than a ms310 of the same cc. If you just want to cut bowl blanks or some firewood, the ms310 will serve you well. If you are going to use it every day, you would get a 361. (or if you just want the best saw ;) )

I have a ms310 (OK saw, but not a pro grade). A Dolmar 7900, (79cc of smooth German engineering) and an old Stihl 090 that I use for milling. (It's 135cc of torque and vibration)

Buy enough saw to do the job, a MS250 (45cc) would probably do what you want if you keep it sharp and take your time. But a 50-60 cc saw will make you smile more :D

Cheers

Ian

[Hilel Salomon]

I agree with Ian on almost everything. The saws he mentioned are excellent. Trouble is in servicing them in the US. There are dealers who sell and service them but certainly not a great many of them. Also the carbide tipped chains have come down in price but still are twice as expensive, slower and harder to sharpen than the cheapies.... and I mean cheapies. A quick look at Ebay will let you see lots of the regular ones for very reasonable prices. When I decide to cut a lot of wood for woodstove use, I have several chainsaws handy. If I can't get the saws, I certainly have several sharpened chains ready. Lastly, if you do have a dealer near you, let him explain the variety of chainsaw types. Some have safety features you might like, while others are much more aggressive and require some experience to use. If you will be cutting more than the occasional log for turning purposes, you might want the more aggressive types. If not, opt for safety.

[Gary Herrmann]

I bought a Shindaiwa 488 (48cc I think) a few weeks ago. Dealer is two miles from my house. I've bought a lot of outdoor equipment from him. Theres also a Stihl guy nearby, but the service isn't all that great. I rip cut through several 16" diameter log sections this weekend with no problems. Haven't sharpened my chain (or even bought the equipment to yet) but its on my list of to dos.

[Roger Bell]

If you insist on a number, 50 cc's should be the approximate minimum for cutting average sized bowls and firewood. Sure, you can get away with less, (and I wouldn"t sweat a "little less") but 50 cc or better should be the target for the average guy. That way you don't overwork the saw when ripping. Have your dealer help you match the bar length to the engine displacement. You don't want too much bar for the available CC's. Less is better than "more" in this department. If you must have a long bar, be sure to get enough saw to handle it...if you don't, you are back to overstressing the saw. 50 cc's with an 18" bar is pretty well matched and will perform well for what you describe.

And you are going to a chainsaw dealer rather than the Borg or to Sears, aren't you?

Sharp chains are a absolute must. When falling/bucking all day, we change out our chains at noon, "whether they need it or not". Makes chain maintenance easier too. Dull tools of any kind will work you to death and are categorically unsafe.

For ripping cuts for bowls, I recommend asking your dealer for a skip-tooth pattern. I switched to that a year ago for bowl cutting and have been very pleased with the results. Try one and see what you think. You can go with a regular chain for firewood. Carbide chains are swell (I have a couple) for cutting roots, stumps, root wads or burnt stock and maybe for wood high in silica (I don't know) but not for ordinary use on typical domestic wood.

[Hilel Salomon]

Before I had a chance to edit my already stale advice, the last bit came out about agressive and milder chainsaws sic. I meant chainsaw chains. The tooth configuration is quite important and you might want to start with anti-kickback types.
Also, my credit card itch started acting up and I began to wonder what models had replaced my Husky chainsaws. There are still a few 365's out there-and if you go with Husqvarna-that's what I would recommend. It has about 62cc's and can accomodate a 24" bar easily. The model may no longer be made but parts are plentiful. I also have a 372 and that seems to be in short supply or has been discontinued. It's an unbelievably tough powerful saw and you can find them though the prices have gone up immensely. Lastly, I checked around and Bailey's has them. You might also want to look up Alamia.com I've gotten four new saws from them and their prices are about the best I could find. They were quite professional and on one of them they matched the best price I could find.
Although I think that Stihl quality control is slightly better and I would prefer to deal with my local dealer over anyone, the Husky can be serviced by almost any large Ace Hardware dealer. Sorry to go on and on.... Had shoulder, knees and eyes operated on and can't go to the shop to do anything. I do promise not to beat this dead horse further. Hilel

[Mark Cothren]

I know Husky makes a 362XP now, but I think it's still a relatively new model and the reviews are still not very plentiful on it. I just recently purchased the 359 and I'm running a 24" bar on it and so far I have been pleased with the performance. With a few mods you can up the hp to pretty much equal the 70cc saws. Shop around and that saw can be had for under $400 delivered to your door.

[Dario Octaviano]

Hilel,

A friend loves the Husqvarna 372XP too much...he stocked up on it. He is not using it for business but bought 3 new ones and have a few used/project ones too!!! :eek: :eek: :eek:

[bob marshall]

i have run 2 shindaiwas 757s on tropical timbers and 5 years later have replaced one spark plug , and lots of chains .run bars 20in to 28in also have 50cc echo wich i took the mixture limiters out and runs really well .use this for all my desert hardwood harvesting and never needed a carbide chain . though i have them . would suggest the shindaiwa 448 would suit you though my echo is good , if you keep the air cleaner clean and fuel fresh ,try not to use ethanol , most saws dont need a lot of service . cheers bob

[Jason Roehl]

Hilel and Dario--the 372xp has been replaced by the 575xp. I have the 372, and it's a very nice saw. I generally use it with a 20" bar (easier on the back when cutting logs laying on the ground), but I ran it for the first time with a 32" bar the other day. Talk about making sawchips!

The 372xp is ~71cc, and I would guess that is a lot more saw than the OP is looking for. 50-55cc/18" bar should be good for bowl blanks. Having the tip stick out more (longer bar): 1) is safer, 2) means fewer sharpenings (but they take longer). and 3) keeps the bar and chain cooler and keeps chip buildup in the cut down.