Metal / Steel Buildings

[Bruce Volden]

I have put in a bid on an acreage (accepted) and am now in the process of trying to find a good outbuilding to be used for my new shop!! There are scores of dealers out there to sell metal buildings but how do I weed them out? I had one put one up 15 yrs. ago on the property I'm on now and wasn't happy with it's performance (roof still leaks). What have you folks been happy with? It will house my woodshop, laser business, and cars and "junk". Also, I'm up here in the cold of winter and heat of summer (I know, insulation!).
What do you wish you would have done differently? I will not be erecting it, but I will wire, insulate, plumb, and finish it myself.


Bruce

[Charles McKinley]

Spray foam is the way to go for insulating steel buildings. It stops the condensation problems especially on the roof. I like steel framing myself.

[Roger Bell]

There are "pole" buildings...consisting of poles sunk in the ground (hopefully in concrete), with 2x material placed flat against the poles and the siding attached. The roof consists of purlins, but sometimes not. You will likely have manufactured trusses every 10-12 lineal feet. These are typical ag building, suitable as tractor sheds, etc.

A step up are "post and frame" buildings.......consisting of 6x6 or 8x8 posts sunk in the ground.. in concrete. With these, you have the option of "chinese girts"....consisting of 2x6's placed "wide side up/down between the posts and running horizontally on 2' (vertical) centers and top-nailed into spacers running vertically along (and attached to) the posts. You definitely want this option. Roof consists of purlins (2x6's set vertically). This type of construction is better because you can run insulation (without the hassle of furring out) between the girts and between the purlins. Wiring is also very easy because there is little drilling (unlike standard house framing using studs). You just run your wiring along-topside on of the girts. You will also have manufactured trusses. Attaching plywood or drywall or panels is also easy with this type of construction. This is what I have. In both cases, the roof is attached by screws with rubber washers. In fancier, spendier versions, the screws are covered by overlapping roof panels.

The big disadvantage of "sticks in the dirt" is that you have "sticks in the dirt". Eventually, even with treated wood in concrete, it will rot, as concrete is hydroscopic, to say nothing of compacted earth. However, how long to plan on living? Perhaps it wont be a (your) problem if you are over 40. I don't believe this kind of construction appreciates in value like steel truss might. Don't know for sure, but I have heard that claim.

A higher end option is steel truss. No sticks in the dirt. Trusses are bolted to threaded rod placed in concrete. Instead of sticks you get steel beams constructed into trusses. these are often used in industrial parks. I dont believe that attaching sheet material to walls is quite as easy, but it can be done.

Do an internet search on steel buildings and compare these three basic types. And get some comparative costs for each type for your size building. That will get you started. Once you make a decison as to one or two types, shop around locally and check the reps of the builders. They vary widely and some are, well.........less than stellar. Like any thing else, dont go with the lowest bid....but with a building company with a proven reputation in your community. This requires research. Time well spent, believe me.

There are also some odd-ball varieties...quonset huts, etc. I don't know much about these.

I recommend ply sheathing and tarpaper under the steel roofing. This is not standard. You will appreciate it every time it rains. It also holds down on the condensation.....a major problem with quick and dirty ag buildings. I also recommend using fibergalss batt insulation rather than the "insulation blankets" offered by the building companies.....those are ok for ag. buildings for chickens, etc. but you will want a lot better for a shop or at least for the portion of your building that will be your shop. Also be sure to place a vapor barrier under your compacted rock sub-base and concrete.

Consider also getting extended eaves that stand out from the building by 2' or so.....makes it look more like a house than an ag barn/tin can appearance.

[Bart Leetch]

I have a friend that has a 40' x 50' Quonset hut & he has found that there is a lot of extra work required to get it ready to use. In checking it out it may be easier to have building erected with post & beam & purlin type construction with the insulation put on & then the metal over that. This is what he had at his old shop & they had 24'x30' up with concrete floor & ready for wiring in a week.

I have seen 2 40'x60' with 12'-16' ceiling buildings like this put up in 1-1 1/2 weeks insulated ready to install wiring.