finishing

[Mike Evertsen]

I finished a birch veneer ply and soft maple hardwood cabinet the other day today I stained it with minwax dark walnut,,,first I used minwax stain control,,,,it still blotched,,,,I about to finish a entetainment center it is built from maple veneer and soft maple hardwood,,,,I don't want a blotched looking finish,,,,,
this isn't just starting to happen I have this on everything but oak some pieces are better than others use stain contol,,some are better using gel stain,,, I bought a water base General finish because I read that it goes on more even than regular stain,,,anyone use this????,,,, am I better off using a dye instead of stain??? if I use a dye can on put water base poly over it???
thanks for any ideas and help,,,,,,

[Daniel Rabinovitz]

Mike
I think the rest of the fellows are afraid to tackle your question
At the high school we used to use General Finishes all the time - it was a series of three steps - 1,2,3. I didn't pay too much attention to it. It just worked well on walnut, cherry, maple, phillipine mahogany, etc.
We also used paste wood filler.

But your question is quite technical and you will be quite upset if someone gives out the wrong information.

So, I have used water base Parks Pro Finisher Sanding Sealer that was purchased at Home Depot with success before staining.
Stain used was EITHER water base or solvent base.
The stain jobs turned out fairly even looking - I think.
I think (know) the sealer sealed the wood so that the stain penetration was limited.
Now that's my answer
Try it on some of the scraps and see what yah got.

And to answer the other question
Yes you can put dye on it first and then water based poly BUT let the alcohol dye DRY!
Daniel

[Kevin Gerstenecker]

Mike, I have used Minwax Pre Stain Conditioner on several Pine & Birch Ply projects, and I have never had a problem with the blotchiness associated with using Wood Stain on problem species. The first time I used the conditioner, I was simply amazed at the eveness of the stain, especially on Pine. I just follow the label directions carefully, and no problems. I have never used a water based stain product, but I have used Minwax Polycrylic Water Based Polyurethane over many projects, and I have had excellent results with it. I am not real big on using Polyurethane, unless it is needed for durability..........but when the project calls for it, Polycrylic is what I use almost always. Some don't like it, but I have great results with it, and I find it to be as durable as Solvent Based Poly. Good luck, I hope you find a satisfactory resolution to your "Blotching" problem.............I think everyone has run across this one time or another, and it can be very frustrating. Not real technical information here Mike, but I hope it helps you some. :)
Hang in there Mike....................it could always be worse! :D

[Doug Jones]

I put a heavy dowsing on wood with mineral spirits (was told that the wood conditioner is the same as mineral spirits only cost more) before staining pine, not dripping wet but almost to that point. Let the wood soak it up for about a half a hour then stain. Seems to work for me.

[Steve Rybicki]

I have also used Minwax Pre-stain Conditioner with good results on birch plywood, cherry and maple.

[Ken Salisbury]

I have been a believer in Minwax Wood Conditioner for a very long time. I have used it on all poplar, pine, soft maple, birch, and other softer wood projects. It is what I call one of the "secret" products -- works wonders in reducing stain blotching and helping the overall eveness of the finish.

[Byron Trantham]

I use WB dye. I apply it with a rag. Then I seal it with 2# cut shellac and then use what ever top coat is required. Most of the time I WB lacquer but poly will work just as well and is more appropriate for table tops, etc.

I have had problems with stain blotching but dye seems to work so much better and it's easy to clean up. Hope this helps.