Table Saw Run Off Table....

[Heather Deans]

Hi All- I have a new table saw, and need to make a new run off table for it (the old one is shot anyway, and I didn't build it!). Any suggestions for the top surface of the table?
Thanks!
Heather

[Mike Henderson]

I really like plastic laminate (Formica)- low friction and holds up for a long time. Also, if you get any glue on it the glue comes off fairly easily.

Mike

[Stephen Clem]

Where's a good place to buy Formica? Does Lowe's or Home Depot carry it?

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

Where's a good place to buy Formica? Does Lowe's or Home Depot carry it?
Yes they do and I agree with mike.
It's way tougher than melamine or any conventional finish.
You can apply it to Plywood or MDF or nearly anything else using Weldwood.

I like to have an old set of venitian blind louvers handy.

I apply the Weldwood to both surfases to be joined. when dry enough to join I apply the louvers onto the work piece (counter top table top whatever) in a way that I can pull 'em out after I set the formica on top.

Then I adjust the Formica so it is exactly where I want it. Then I start pulling out the louvers beginning in the middle and working outward as I carefully rub the formika down to the underlayment.

I have used dowels when louvers weren't available. It works but I don't like them so well as you have to have a finish on the dowels or you might lose some wood fibers and make a little lump in your formica job.

[Mike Henderson]

Where's a good place to buy Formica? Does Lowe's or Home Depot carry it?
I found some at a BIG Home Depot - the smaller stores don't carry it. There's a hardwood store (Austin Hardwood) in my area that also carries it. Both have a limited selection but for an outfeed table, you aren't looking for style. In fact, the last time I bought some for a woodworking table, I found a damaged sheet and they sold it to me for half price - luckly it was a fairly neutral color.

And just a note - it's not really Formica. It's just plastic laminate made by someone else

Mike

[Ken Fitzgerald]

For the amount of formica you need for an outfeed table, you might check with a local counter top shop....Often they have left overs they'll give away or sell cheap.

[Alex Shanku]

A full sheet of melamine (~$25) will be enough to make your outfeed table and extension table. With the left over, I built a cabinet for my CMS, too.

[Mike Henderson]

Yes they do and I agree with mike.
It's way tougher than melamine or any conventional finish.
You can apply it to Plywood or MDF or nearly anything else using Weldwood.

I like to have an old set of venitian blind louvers handy.

I apply the Weldwood to both surfases to be joined. when dry enough to join I apply the louvers onto the work piece (counter top table top whatever) in a way that I can pull 'em out after I set the formica on top.

Then I adjust the Formica so it is exactly where I want it. Then I start pulling out the louvers beginning in the middle and working outward as I carefully rub the formika down to the underlayment.

I have used dowels when louvers weren't available. It works but I don't like them so well as you have to have a finish on the dowels or you might lose some wood fibers and make a little lump in your formica job.
I really like your idea of the venetian blind louvers. I'll have to try that next time.

Mike

[Dan Tipton]

Yesterday, I picked up 2 pieces of broken formica countertops -- back splash broken off from my local salvage store (Grossman's) for $4 each. From them I got big enough pieces of formica already bonded to particle board for the table saw extension I need to make.

[Steve Kohn]

I have told that if you laminate one side of outfeed table, you are also supposed to laminate the other side. This keeps it from warping over time.

[Homer Faucett]

I have told that if you laminate one side of outfeed table, you are also supposed to laminate the other side. This keeps it from warping over time.

I've heard that said before, as well, but I think that is an unqualified statement that should be qualified based upon the substrate that is laminated.

Consider this: how many kitchen countertops have you seen that have the undersides laminated? My outfeed table will never be the size of my mother's countertop, and I've never seen her countertop twist or warp even when weather changes.

I placed our old laminate countertop outside behind the barn until I can use it for another project. It's been there a few months in varying weather. It still hasn't bent out of shape, and it is only laminated on one side.

However, I'm sure if you laminated both sides with a glue having a hard glue line that it would contribute some stiffness to the overall structure.

Maybe I'm off-base, but these are my observations.

[David Cramer]

Ken Kitzgerald is correct. If it's not a big piece that your looking for, that is the "cheapest" route to take. Look up countertops in your phonebook and go to their shop. Don't call them or it's a 50/50 shot of the giving it to you. Go to their actual shop and ask if they have cut-offs that they are throwing away and let him see that you have a 10 spot in your hand. If the person is in a good mood, they will just give it ya or worse case senario, he'll ask for a few bucks. TRUST ME, this is the way to go. I've gone into my local shops and they have helped me immensely over the years. You might get lucky if you hit their dumpster after they've thrown out a huge load. Good Luck!

Dave

p.s. Builder's Almond, White, Black and Grey costs them about .80/square foot (only those commodity colors). That's what they told me anyways. That is $27.14 including tax for a full 4 by 8 foot sheet.

[Dan Stuewe]

I think the concern about laminating both sides is more of a router table top issue. In that case it is very important for the surface to remain flat to achive acurate milling. For an outfeed table I would guess that so long as the edge is at or a bit lower than the edge of the tablesaw, you won't notice/care.

[Steve Kohn]

I have been told that the reason that counter tops are not laminated on the bottom is that they are well screwed down to the cabinets. I don't know what the plan is, but my commercially made router table (Rockler) is laminated on both sides.

[Bartee Lamar]

Here a few pictures of my outfeed (http://picasaweb.google.com/bartee/TableSawOutfeedTable)table with comments on the pictures.

It is made from 3/4" sandeply for the base of the table with pocket hole screws. The top is 1/2 sandeply from HD with Formica top.

Legs are glued up to 1 1/2" square.

It is VERY sturdy, since I stand on it to work on the wiring above the table.

[Mike Ross]

Hey Heather, Congrats on the new saw. The idea behind laminating both sides of a panel is so moisture will absorb/release evenly on both the top and bottom surfaces. That way it stays flat and stable. Look under a dining table or desk with a veneer top. 90% of the time you will find a heavy paper laminate that is there to balance the panel. Its called a backer. For shop tables I use plywood with a plastic laminate top (like Formica) a solid wood edge and I skip the bottom.

Cliff mentioned using Blind Louvers to hold the glued up laminate slightly off the glued up surface while positioning it. That is a great tip but they are never handy, the one time I disassembled a customers blinds they got really mad at me... whatever.

I use an extension cord. Wipe it clean and loop it back and forth completely across the surface, from one end to the other. Then when everything is exactly where you want, pull out a loop, applying pressure and smoothing outward from there. On a table I start from the middle, smoothing to the ends as I pull out loops of cord.

Enjoy,

Mike Ross

[Nancy Laird]

I was a supervisor in a countertop shop for four years and the only time we ever put a backer on a countertop was for moisture control at the request of a client. Mostly is was for a top that was going into a commercial establishment and around a very wet area, like a lab or a kitchen area.

Mike talked about one way of laying the laminate. We used what we called stickers, 1/4" by 3/4" by 48" pieces of leftover solid wood, normally oak or maple, to hold the laminate off the substrate. Then remove the middle sticker and set the laminate in the center followed by working it outward to each end.

Our substrate was particle board and the only item that I would mention is that you would most likely want to put some solid wood on the edges. Without putting on edging you will see the first signs of deteriation on those edges first.

My outfeed table has been in place for over 10 years with maple edging and I have had no delamination on the edges.

That's my 2 cents.

Dave

[Heather Deans]

Thanks so much for all the great suggestions! Now I just have to get the students out of the shop so I can get some work done.... :)
Heather

[Al Willits]

Any reason why not to make it out of plywood and put a couple of coats of varnish on it???

Al.....you know why I'm asking, don't you? :D

[David Cramer]

Great looking outfeed table Bartee. Thanks for sharing it with others. It looks "sturdy" and a very effeceint use of space. Excellent!

Dave

[Bill Brady]

I was able to pickup 3 old cafeteria table tops from a former employer. These make excelent bench tops and the laminate is pressed on tighter than you can do it yourself.