How to handle "punky" part of spalted maple

[Jason Morgan]

Hi all,

great pieces BTW in the last few threads. I am constantly amazed at the work that is shown here. Gives me plenty of inspiration.

My question is can someone give me some pointers on how to handle the "punky" parts of a dry spalted maple log. I am turning it into a "box" with some walnut accents and there is a real soft part that ends up right on the surface. Ive though about a number of things.

1, cut it out and replace it with similar or contrasting material
2. use wood hardener or CA glue
3. Just leave it and sand it the best I can.

My question is really about #2, how does one do that, (as specifically as possible)?

Thanks very much for any and all help.

This bug has bitten deep. Turning is all I think about these days. I'm going to use my non-existant "free" time to come up with vaccine for this virus, I could charge $1000/shot and save people millions...just kidding...:D


Jason

[Dario Octaviano]

Jason,

It depends on how punky the wood is.

Main thing is to turn it as close to the final dimensions you can w/o it breaking apart...ON ONE FACE (most likely the outside). Apply thin CA and let it soak in. Trim again if you have to and repeat the process until it is ready for sanding.

If you did it right, the thin CA should wick deep enough that you won't have as much problem dealing with the other side (inside). You have to treat the other side the same...cut, CA, cut, CA...sand.

One thing...depending on your final finish...the CA treated area might not match the adjoining areas later.

Good luck!!!

[Andy Hoyt]

Try the Epoxy Manhattan

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=32083

[Bernie Weishapl]

Ditto what Andy said. I use the Epoxy Cocktail. It works great for me.

[John Hart]

Yep...Me too. My name is John and I'm an Epoxiholic.:o

[Rich Stewart]

Is System Three epoxy something you can buy at Ace Hardware? Or do you have to order it? I have a piece that I started a while back but it is sooo punky I just set it aside. This sounds like the thing. I was going to try 50/50 Elmers glue-all and water. Seems like I heard something about that earlier.

[John Hart]

I've tried both the system 3 and the "other stuff in the dual plunger thingies that you find everywhere". Haven't noticed any performance difference. The System 3 seems to be substantially cheaper. I got mine at Rockler.

[Frank Kobilsek]

Rich's 50/50 Elmers idea works but the water can warp the piece.

Try Deft thinned down a little. Soak the whole piece with a brush, go back a resoak the punky parts, burnish dry with a paper towel then cut and repeat as with the CA instructions. Depending on the size of the piece Deft is alot cheaper than CA.

Frank

[Rich Stewart]

The piece I have is about 6 in. tall and 3 in. diameter. Would I have to submerge it in the cocktail or is it brushed on? Or maybe make some up and roll it around in it. I guess the question is how much would I need for a piece that size? It is hollowed out. Rough turned. Going to be a box of sorts. Bottom and top. Like turning a sponge. Ripped all to pieces. Deep tearouts but I still have wood left.

Thanks,

Rich

I guess i pretty much hijacked this thread. Sorry.

[Dan Williams]

I'v never tried this but I have been told that 50/50 White glue (ELMERS ) an water. let saok for a few hours, let dry for a day and that will stiffen up any punky wood. It makes sence.

[Rich Stewart]

Thanks flash.

[Quinn McCarthy]

Would West Systems Epoxy work the same way as the System 3?

I have a lot of WS epoxy around for other stuff and have wondered about soaking punky wood in it. I am sure that you would have to use something besides DNA for thinning but it should work the same.

Anybody tried WS?

Quinn

[Skip Spaulding]

Great info, thought it was just me being too cheap to throw the wood into the wood stove pile!

[John Shuk]

I have used Minwax wood hardener with very good results. I got turned on to that by Mr. Grumbine. Very easy to use and it dries quickly.
Home Depot has it.

[John Hart]

The way I do it is take any epoxy and mix it as you normally would. Then pour in some DNA and mix it to the right consistancy. (like the consistancy of milk) I brush it on and roll it around in the bowl so that the wood soaks it up. It'll soak it up quite readily...you'll need to work fast and evenly. I just try to get even coverage and get as much soaked in as possible. After it cures, it'll be nicely hardened and easy to work with. This same method works well to secure bark on an NE too and gives the bark a nice even dark finish.

[Jason Morgan]

Im thinking Ill try the wood hardener since I dont have the epoxy on hand and its easy to get to HD for it.

[George Tokarev]

Have to admit I'm using none of the above, preferring to cut and then carefully sand to prevent digging. Water-borne hardeners, and that includes those based on water-miscible solvents like alcohol, will affect the surface differently than non water (polar) solvent materials. Water-based will take advantage of the affinity of dry cellulose for water or other hydrogen-bonding materials, temporarily warping, but ultimately replacing the lignin lost to the fungus with the resin. Oil-borne will just fill the former gaps, creating a new material altogether.

Affects your choice of finish as well as your choice of sandpaper. Open coat and low heat stearated stuff is going to load less, and surface rather than penetrating finishes will minimize the appearance differences.

[Ed Breen]

A general question??
Could I then put the piece in the pressure pot and force the cocktail in further?
Ed

[John Shuk]

A general question??
Could I then put the piece in the pressure pot and force the cocktail in further?
Ed
I've heard tell of that being done with Wood Hardener with good results.