Request For Router Table Sizing Help

[Jeff Wright]

I plan to purchase a router table system. I will handle serious shaping duties on my 1.25" spindle shaper on my MiniMax 410 Elite machine and I have a router spindle that can be mounted on it, but rpms max out at around 10,000, not allowing for smaller router bit use.

I am interested in your comments on what size router table to get. Woodpecker, for example, offers surface sizes in 27D x 47w (giving good support on left and right), a 32D x 27w, a 43D x 27w, and a 53D x 32w. I will also be getting the Incra fence positioning system available in either 17" or 25" travel.

Based on the fact that I do varied type projects (furniture, cabinetry, crafts, and who knows what else), what size table and Incra fence do you suggest I get? Thanks.

[Pete Brown]

Get as big a table as you can fit. Depth won't help you a ton, but width will.

The size Incra you need depends on what you want to do. You really only need more than a few inches when you use the fence for routing grooves in wide wood or when routing dovetails for large drawers.

You can obviously build your own table top (http://www.woodpeck.com/buildyourowntable.html). If you want to buy one, you can get Woodpeckers to make a custom size (http://www.woodpeck.com/rtcustom.html). Basically you want something wide enough so that you don't have long rails or stiles hanging off the edge too far. Same with plywood. If you have great outfeed support then you're ok. However you asked about how big of a table :)

My router tables are in my table saw. The convenience there is space. The inconvenience is in having to tear down and reset whenever I need to change between router and table saw, which happens more often than I would like.

That all being said, this is a great sized table (http://www.woodpeck.com/rt2747.html). You'll need an outrigger to support the Incra fence and you may have a hard time putting a groove down the center of a piece of plywood, but you'd probably go handheld for that anyway. I'd like to see that table a little deeper to suppor the incra for dovetails and box joints, but it is still pretty nice.

Pete

[Jim Becker]

Many of the commercially available router table tops, um...top out at 32" wide. I prefer wider and mine is 36" by 24". I do not use the Incra fence system, so this works. Many of the typical tables for that fence are "rotated" to accomodate the fence system, making for a rather narrow work surface. Of the ones you cite, the largest one at least has the 32" width. Perhaps you would consider making your own top? Less money and you can make it fit your needs exactly.

[Jeff Wright]

Get as big a table as you can fit. Depth won't help you a ton, but width will.

That all being said, this is a great sized table (http://www.woodpeck.com/rt2747.html). You'll need an outrigger to support the Incra fence and you may have a hard time putting a groove down the center of a piece of plywood, but you'd probably go handheld for that anyway. I'd like to see that table a little deeper to suppor the incra for dovetails and box joints, but it is still pretty nice.

Pete

Pete, yes I was attracted to that Incra 27 x 47 table also with its good width. But I was concerned about the lack of depth in using the Incra positioners. I don't want to eat up any more shop space than is necessary, but neither do I want to end up frustrated with a table too small.

[Mike Heidrick]

Woodpecker recommends the 32X53 for the 25" LS positioner and 27X43 for the 17" LS positioner. You want the offset tables for that positioner. They are big tables. I have the 32X53 and it is a monster but so is the 25" LS setup.

[John Keane]

Jeff, I have a Woodpecker offset top on a Jointech cabinet I built from their plan. I have an LS 17 on it. Its a nice kit for doing dovetails and small jobs. On the other hand I have an Incra ULtra on Norm's table with a conventional center mount table top. I built an infeed table for it that is like a shelf. It folds down when not in use. This table has become my work horse. My suggestion is if you have the time look at Norm's cabinet and table and then look at Jointech. I like the Jointech cabinet. With a center mount top and infeed and outfeed tables you can handle just about anything in reason. I think I got the shelf brackets for the infeed table from Rockler or perhaps it was Woodworker Supply. I can send pics if you want. Send me an email. John.

[Rick Potter]

Jeff,

If you want a router table, fine, but if you are short on room give your shaper a try. I tested several types of wood with small bits on my shaper and the results were just fine, I rarely use the router except for one in my saw table set up permanently for small roundovers. I do so many of these, it is convenient to leave it set up that way.

By the way, the cuts, except for really soft pine were good at 7000 also.

Rick Potter

[Dave Falkenstein]

With an Incra fence, you need whatever depth the fence requires for mounting. Check out the documentation available on the Woodpecker site, or call Woodpecker, to decide on the minimum table depth for the fence you select. I agree with an earlier post that bigger is better. As the top gets bigger, you may need a bigger cabinet to hold it securely, without a tendency to tip. My router table cabinet is made like the one at Jointech, here:

http://www.jointech.com/routerstation.htm

Note the Jointech cabinet is oriented so the long dimension runs with the depth of the top, rather than the typical NYW table design.

[pat warner]

"Based on the fact that I do varied type projects (furniture, cabinetry, crafts, and who knows what else), what size table and Incra fence do you suggest I get? Thanks."

The bigger the slab the harder it is to keep it flat. Joinery and close work require a flat top. More on this. (http://patwarner.com/router_table.html)

[Jeff Wright]

The bigger the slab the harder it is to keep it flat. Joinery and close work require a flat top. More on this. (http://patwarner.com/router_table.html)

Thanks Pat! You have some great info on your site; I had read it previous to my posting here. You may have a future customer.

[Bert Johansen]

Pat Warner is the reigning guru on router tables, and when I built mine I heeded his advice about tops. Mine is small (24 X 36) and without an insert, which weakens the top and can lead to sagging. Instead of an insert I opted for a hinged lid, as shown in the photo. I have the smallest JoinTech "Clincher" jig, which I love. Yes, you are limited to the size of panels you can dovetail or rout box joints using the jig, but I haven't found that a necessity. I also have a shaper for the big stuff.

Good luck, and let us know how it turns out.