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Bryan Nuss
11-28-2003, 5:30 AM
I'm in the process of designing an L-shaped kitchen nook from pine. I plan to make the seats from 2 pieces of edge-joined 2x8. The span of the longest seat will be about 60". Other than edge-gluing and biscuiting the two 2x8's together, what would be a good method of reinforcing the joint?
I will be able to run a cleat to the wall to support only one long side. The seats will have to support a hefty person.
Thanks.

Todd Burch
11-28-2003, 9:07 AM
Brian, is that what you mean?

As far as reinforcing the glue joint between the 2 2X8's, biscuits and glue will be plenty sufficient.

My questions are:

1) What type of cleat? I show a champhered 2X4 along both walls underneath the rear edge of the seat.

2) How are you connecting the 2X8's at the corner? I show a spline.

3) How will you support the front edge of the seat? I don't think the rear cleat will be enough support (perhaps at the inside corner, but not on either end).

Will you do any treatment to the end grain of the 2X8's? (veneer, roundover, under-bevel, etc.?

Sounds like a fun project. Todd.

Bryan Nuss
11-28-2003, 11:14 AM
Hi Todd,

Thanks for the reply. Attached is a photo of the kitchen nook I'm trying to design. No plans are available. I have been at it most of this morning.

The design is complicated by the fact that I will have 2 wall baseboard heaters, one under each leg of the "L", and only have an available space of 72" x 50" for the "L". I will carve out a curved notch on the end piece at the wall to clear the baseboard heaters. The heaters should keep the bench seats warm ... a boon for those of us with tender differentials.

The joining of the two legs of the "L" at 45 degrees results in a dead space in the corner which no one can sit comfortably when you make a right-angle table to fit the "L". Plus, joining the two sloping backs could be really exiting!

I have come to the conclusion that I will most likely build two separate "free-standing" benches, one about 48" long and the other about 32" long. Not necessarily elegant, but it will work. The resulting open square corner where the benches abut can be filled with a plant stand and maybe corner shelves above. One could also build a simple picnic type bench to use for the open long side of the table, if there is room.

I will mortise and tenon the bench seats and sloping backs into the end pieces. With only a nominal 48" span max for the bench seats, I don't see the need for additional support (cleats) between ends. I will glue and biscuit between bench seat 2x8 planks. I may add a 1"x4" stetcher tenoned into the end pieces to screw the seats to the walls, but it would not support the bench seat.

The sloping backs will be glued up raised panels, 3 for the 48" bench and 2 for the 32" bench. This will be my first attempt at raised panels.

By the way Todd, where did you get your sketch program? As an engineer, its the kind of thing I drool over!

Regards,

Todd Burch
11-28-2003, 11:45 AM
Bryan, sounds like you have it well under control!

The program I use is called SketchUp! from @Last (at-last) Software. www.sketchup.com. It was $475 to purchase from download. Anyone can download a free 8 hour fully functioning demo as a try-and-buy. I reckon that in less than 8 hours, you could design your nook completely (after you watch the online tutorials at their web site). I designed this vanity & linen cabinet last week for a client. With the rotate tool you can even open and close doors!

Have fun! Todd.