Router ?

[James Reichman]

Question for the Pros? I have a small shop (2 car garage). I'm interested in setting up a router table. I can build my own table. But would like to know which big (3 1/4 hp.) router you would recommend. Is there a model which does not need a lift for easy adjustment (plunge?). Also can I run a power feeder on homemade table? Which router would you recommend for a hopefull cabinet maker on a budget? I know save up and buy the best.I will but with you info I can HUNT for that special buy:p .

Thanks
James

[Darrin Davis]

The industry standard seems to use the PC 7518 for comparison. I've always thought that this router is the workhorse of all the routers i've owned. The only problem is it costs 300+. I have 2 "New Yankee" style router tables, 1 has the Jessem Mast-R-Lift with the PC 7518 and the other is a Freud plunge router with a Freud fence. After building and setting up the Mast-R-Lift with the PC 7518 I can honestly say that the other router table gets used less than 1% of the time. I want to pull my hair out everytime I have to change bits from under the table and adjust from under the table. I would save up and spoil yourself down the road. Just my thoughts.

[Mike Heidrick]

PC 7518 and the 5625 Milwaukee are the workhorses of the router table world. There are others but these two get the nod from many many users and also from plate and lift manufacturers.

7518 or 5625 and a Woodpecker PRL create the setup I recommend. Add an Incra LS positioner and you have a sweet setup that is fun to use.

[David Wambolt]

7518 or 5625 and a Woodpecker PRL create the setup I recommend. Add an Incra LS positioner and you have a sweet setup that is fun to use.

I just got the complete Woodpecker 32x53" Table with the Incra Super LS system. I also bought the PRL to use with a 5625 router. I think I got 10 boxes from Woodpecker today. :)

[Paul Greathouse]

I have my Porter Cable 7518 in a Benchdog lift mounted in a New Yankee Workshop style table. It's a great combination. You can't go wrong with the 7518 that's why its so pricey. I'm sure the Milwaukee is good too but I haven't had any experience with it.

[Greg Peterson]

To no one in particular, but after adding up the cost of a PC7518, lift kit and Incra system and materials for table, aren't you getting into shaper price range?

[David Wambolt]

Yup. But for me, they are two different animals. I wanted the capability of doing precision work for joinery using the Incra system, not raw cutting power for mouldings and raised panels. I can do both on my table, just not at the same speed and perhaps size. I'm okay with that since I'm not a production shop. A 3hp Grizzly would have been quite a bit cheaper than what I bought from Woodpecker, but I bought what I felt would serve me best over the long term.

[scott spencer]

The MW 5625 fits the bill and rates highly for table use.

http://www.epinions.com/content_245903494788

The new Freud FT3000 and Triton also get high marks in the plunger ranks.

[Mike Weaver]

If you're not in a huge hurry, look for a Hitachi M12V and add a Router Raizer.

Total cost for them on sale would be less than the Milwauke 5625, but would take more time to find.

Just a thought.

-Mike
PS as a reference, Amazon just had the Router Raizer on sale for $60, and the street price on the Hitachi is ~$150, or less.

[Matt Day]

I think the Hitachi M12V2 is the cheapest of the 3 1/4 (15amp) routers, and recently was selling for $159.99. I have yet to use mine to give you my personal experience. There's a review at newwoodworker.com that might help you.

It doesn't come with a top mounted adjuster for a router table setup, but there's a Router Raizer available for it. I'm currently looking into the best way to make it a router table router.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

But at the show price of $190.00 only do not pay retail

[Pete Brown]

I use the milwaukee router (I have two of them) and two different Woodpecker lifts. Both work very well. I also have the Incra setup, but it is my table saw fence as well.

Note that Jessem sells the Milwaukee motor with a special attachment (http://www.jessem.com/motor.htm) to allow you to vary the speed from a control mounted on the table. This looks to be more sophisticated than just putting a variable control inline with the power, although that may be all it is when you get down to copper and solder. You must buy the motor with the control (I asked). The as the motor does not have the variable speed or the lift stuff on-board like the normal body motor does.

Also note that the Milwaukee won for most power and easiest adjustment some time ago in at least one of the major woodworking magazines. They were testing "best table routers"

Pete

[Brad Trent]

I think there is a comparison in the Feb. FWW of larger routers with above the table adjustment. If I remember correctly, they were impressed with the Triton.

[Steve Mellott]

Fine Woodworking magazine recently rated the Triton as the best router for a router table. I saw it demonstrated at the Wood Show and it is really impressive. Triton makes two models - you can only use the router lift feature on the 2.25 hp model. I've just ordered one from Sommerfeld Tools.

[Pete Brown]

I believe this is what the OP was asking for anyway, but keep in mind that the FWW article limited itself to plunge routers that need to extra router lift.

Pete

[Brad Trent]

I'll have to look at the FWW article later tonight, but it reviewed several non-plunge routers. IIRC, the main requirement for the routers to make the review was that they have an above the table adjustment capability.

[Pete Brown]

I'll have to look at the FWW article later tonight, but it reviewed several non-plunge routers. IIRC, the main requirement for the routers to make the review was that they have an above the table adjustment capability.

Actually, you're right. I just looked at the article on-line (requires a FWW membership) and they rated several non-plunge routers as well, including the milwaukee.

The conclusion is that the Triton is the best all-around with low runout and easy bit changing. The Milwaukee has a more powerful motor and can take a larger bit (4" diameter, in case you find one that size that doesn't scare you <g>), but bit changing is more difficult (two wrenches) and the on-off switch is small and hard to get to.

While I generally agree with the review, I think some times are non-issues for table-mounted routers in a cabinet. For example, the on-off switch. I would assume most folks using their router in a cabinet will have an external switch. Similarly, I think that the bit changing with two wrenches is actually more convenient when you have the router in a cabinet, as you can do all your work from above the table without having to fumble for a spindle lock below. That's less of a issue if you don't use a heavy router lift, as you'll probably just lift the whole thing (plate and all) out of the table to change the bit, as that tends to be faster.

The Triton does look to be a very good router, though.

Pete

[Brad Trent]

.

The conclusion is that the Triton is the best all-around with low runout and easy bit changing. The Milwaukee has a more powerful motor and can take a larger bit (4" diameter, in case you find one that size that doesn't scare you <g>), but bit changing is more difficult (two wrenches) and the on-off switch is small and hard to get to.

While I generally agree with the review, I think some times are non-issues for table-mounted routers in a cabinet. For example, the on-off switch. I would assume most folks using their router in a cabinet will have an external switch. Similarly, I think that the bit changing with two wrenches is actually more convenient when you have the router in a cabinet, as you can do all your work from above the table without having to fumble for a spindle lock below. That's less of a issue if you don't use a heavy router lift, as you'll probably just lift the whole thing (plate and all) out of the table to change the bit, as that tends to be faster.

The Triton does look to be a very good router, though.

Pete

I think you're assesment of the article is on the mark.

I have the Milwaukee that uses 2 wrenches and (maybe I'm just old fashioned) I feel like I can secure the bit more effectively with two wrenches. By the way, I found that the quickest and easiest way for me to change bits on the Milwaukee was to just take the motor out of the base. You just pop the lock, press the release and the motor drops out. Set it on the table and have great access to do the bit change, then reverse the procedure to get it back in the base. This keeps you from having to crank the motor all the way up or down to access the collet.

[Pete Brown]

I think you're assesment of the article is on the mark.

I have the Milwaukee that uses 2 wrenches and (maybe I'm just old fashioned) I feel like I can secure the bit more effectively with two wrenches. By the way, I found that the quickest and easiest way for me to change bits on the Milwaukee was to just take the motor out of the base. You just pop the lock, press the release and the motor drops out. Set it on the table and have great access to do the bit change, then reverse the procedure to get it back in the base. This keeps you from having to crank the motor all the way up or down to access the collet.

Thanks Brad. I don't mind collet locks. IN fact, I like them on my plunge router and my trim router. I just don't care to fiddle with them under a table. That being said, the two wrench method seems to get things tighter quicker for me.

I use a router lift from Woodpeckers (http://www.woodpeck.com/quicklift414.html), everything but the motor and the wrenches are still in the milwaukee box, unused. The lift has a large L-shaped wrench that bypasses the fine feed and yanks the whole motor up in one pop. It is tight for reasons I don't quite understand, but it is definitely better than spending an hour with the fine feed waiting for the motor to come up ;)

FWIW, I also bought an offset wrench (http://www.woodpeck.com/offsetwrenches.html) from Woodpeckers, so that makes the changing easier.

I've been using the system for a while now, and it has worked quite well. I also have the older PRL in my left-side table, but that doesn't get anywhere near as much use as the quick lift on the right table.

Pete