What do you use to edge plywood

[Jay Jolliffe]

Has anyone used the Burgess bits to edge plywood. I tried to set it up yesterday & when I center the bit on the plywood to make the cut the edges come out a little rough looking .

[Jeffrey Makiel]

Jay,
I have no experience with this system mostly because a voice inside my head is telling me about what you are experiencing.

It seems everything must be right on perfect for this system to work. That's awfully hard in my hobby woodshop and with varying thicknesses of plywood these days (even among plywood within the same stack!).

I'm not sure of what the advantages are. If I'm not using edgebanding tape, which is trimmed with a razor like jig, I use solid rectangular stock that was carefully planed to the thickness of the plywood. After butt glued on the edge of the plywood, I can not believe it will ever fall off.

Even if I don't plane the edge banding stock to proper width, I can always use a flush trim bit, in a climb cut fashion, to make things perfectly flush. This way, the varying thickness of plywood is not an issue.

-Jeff :)

[Joe Chritz]

I do what Jeff does. Either edgebanding or most often solid stock about 1/2" glued in place.

I use a tall fence and flush trim bit to even it out and about 1 minute on the ROS.

I expect the problem you are having, if I follow is the veneer edges are chipping.

If that is the case have you tried scoring a line where it will be to break the fibers? Short of a powerfeed cilmb cut that is the only idea I have.

Good luck

Joe

[Kelly C. Hanna]

Yep, I tried everything to get them to work...hated the finish on the edges. I sent back the bits and the owner got a refund.

Bummer is the edges of the plywood will lift off the 'edge' if brushed against once the insert is glued in. Really bad idea IMNSHO.

[Russ Filtz]

If only one side of the plywood is of concern, maybe using a spiral bit would help, using the downcut action on the good side? You could use either up or down spiral and then just make sure the ply is right side up!

[Jeffrey Makiel]

I would also like to add that this bit system will not allow you to machine an edge detail afterwards whereas solid stock edge banding will. Also, a sharp edge is prone to damage when the part is used as a shelf or an exposed edge on furniture and cabinetry.

-Jeff :)

[Don Bullock]

Good question. Thanks everyone for the answers. You've helped me solve a problem I've been mulling over in my mind for a project I'm currently working on by confirming my thoughts.

[Jim Becker]

Glue is strong all by itself...so I glue solid stock on the edges; sometimes using a pinner, but more often than not, using masking tape as a "clamp".

[Paul Wingert]

Has anyone used the Burgess bits to edge plywood. I tried to set it up yesterday & when I center the bit on the plywood to make the cut the edges come out a little rough looking .

I glue a piece of solid wood that is slightly too thick for the plywood. That makes lining it up easy. After the glue tries, use a flush trim bit on a router and/or a sander to bring it flush.. I have a router table that holds the router parallel to the ground, so that makes it is a breeze.

[Ted Miller]

I do the same as Paul does, plywood just never seems to be consistant with sizes, this way I don't have to fuss so much so I make my strips all the same size then trim after glued up...