New Bench Top Advice

[Marc Prudhomme]

Hello,
I am putting 3/4 hardwood flooring(oak)on top of a thick MDF subbase for a workbench.There was some advice on here about using brad nails and glue.I would like to get away from the nails if I could.Do you think I could go with just glue with caul pressure?Thinking of using tightbond glue.
Any advice?
Marc

[Craig Stueve]

My main bench is just laminate flooring over a solid core door. The flooring just floats betwen the oak edging. I have had no problems with this for the 8 months or so I have had this set up. The big advantage is that with the prefinished flooring glue just pops right off when it dries. I just keep my eyes open for another damaged box of flooring on clearance at any of the BORG type stores and can easily have a "brand new" bench top in just a few minutes whenever mine gets too damaged.

Craig

[John Gregory]

I used maple flooring for my workbench top. Just remember that you will have seasonal movement of the flooring, here in Utah we are in a dry climate so the movement is less than a climate that has large swings in humidity.

[Neil Bosdet]

Hi Marc,

I think you're refering to the discussion we had on benchtops. I didn't think twice about nailing and gluing. Just like laying a floor, the tongues and grooves don't always want to go together. They need "persuasion". Seldom will you see a box of strip flooring without some bends or twists. If you angle nail through the tongue you should end up with at least a 1/4" of hardwood on your top before you get to any nail heads. I haven't tried to do this without nails but I think it would be difficult and I don't see a viable benefit.

Cheers,

Neil

[Tom Ricochet]

I went even simpler than Craig - solid core door with 1/4" hardboard top sitting between the white oak edging - just a few brads to hold it down. Sealed it with Bulls Eye, and two coats of water base poly. Just recoat the poly once a year or so. If it gets damaged, I don't have to cry! :D