Bandsaw questions

[Kevin McPeek]

I post them here since I am using my saw for mostly roughing turning stock and a lot of other quick cuts.
First, I have a Grizzly 14" bandsaw and am thinking of getting the riser block for it, is there anything that I need to watch out for or be aware of in making this change?
Second, is it worth it to make a circle cutting jig, or better just to cut to a compassed line (or screwed on disc)?
Third, knowing that I use my bandsaw for all kinds of little jobs as well as cutting sopping wet bowl blanks, what blade should I be looking for? Currently I have a 1/2" 4TPI Timberwolf.

Thanks.

[Jim Becker]

IMHO, no need for a "circle jig" for cutting turning blanks. Use the lathe to get them perfectly round!

Relative to the riser, get the one that matches your saw as it's not just the riser, but the guide extension, etc., And be aware you'll need to buy different size blades once the riser is installed. (It's a "permanent" change, so any existing blade stock you have goes in the classifieds... ;) )

[Bernie Weishapl]

Yep I have the G0555 Griz bandsaw with the riser block. You will have to buy a new 105" blade for it. I use a 3 TPI 1/2" on mine and it works slick. You don't need a circle jig for it. I went down and cut out circles from a refrigerator box at the appliance store. I cut from 4" to 15" circles. I use a finish nail in the middle of the blank. Since the cardboard circle I cut out has a small hole in the middle I put it over the nail and then cut around the edge. Works slick and is cheap. (FREE)

[Frank Kobilsek]

Kevin
I added the riser block to my Grizzley 14". Its OK but it really doesn't have the HP to do the job. Some woods cut better than others, for example wet cherry and maple cut fine at 8 or 9 inches thick but Oak and some others I just do the best I can with the chain saw.

Circle templates are a better next step than a circle jig. Just cut a bunch of circle of different sizes from thin plywood or even cardboard. I use old political signs (the plastic corogated ones).

Currently I suspect you use 93" blades, with the riser you'll need 105" blades. Jim is right, this is a permanent change. You will not want to go back a forth. One caution: When you pull the blade guide bar down from the holder to put the longer one in, there is a little detent ball that will fly out. Make sure you catch that thing or you'll spend the rest of the day on your hands and knees looking for it.

The last word: Riser kit is cheaper than a bigger and better bandsaw more appropriate for the job.

Frank

[Jim Ketron]

Get some help!
I did mine myself on my G0555 and I would not recommend anyone to try it alone!

[Dario Octaviano]

Kevin,

Check Limey, I think he did that change (or is his HF?)

On blade size, I think 1/2" is right but you will be better off consulting Timberwolf/Suffolk about it. I know they recommended 3tpi x 1/2" on mine and the blade is much thicker too. Can't remember the designation for it but the teeth cuts a much wider (kerf ?) than the blade itself so it doesn't bind.

[Dick Durbin]

I added a riser block to my Grizzly 1019 last year. It was a simple change except that I had to buy a big honkin' $25 open end wrench to do the job.

I just ordered a blade from Highland Woodworking in Atlanta that they say is designed for cutting green wood blanks: http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=6944

[Kevin McPeek]

Thanks everyone. Since I haven't heard anything yet I assume (yeah I know) that there aren't any alignment issues. Thats what I was worried about.

Currently I have some discs that I screw on and cut around but I just made one that I can screw on that has holes for every inch sized bowl (from 6 to 16) that I put the awl in and scratch the right size on it and I also added a hole for the faceplate that I usually use so that will have a good way to be centered. That one won't work for log sections or NE blanks though.

The reason that I was considering a jig was so I could max out the swing and still be able to use the tail stock in the beginning. I have a few blanks where the rough areas are bigger than the lathe can take and I'm trying to get the most out of them. Greedy, I know.

[Doug Shepard]

Get some help!
I did mine myself on my G0555 and I would not recommend anyone to try it alone!

I did mine alone with the top section hanging from a block and tackle. If you don't have one, do like Jim sez. It's too heavy to do by yourself while also trying to align pins and tighten nuts or bolts.
Also, if the Griz kit is like the Jet, inspect it real close before you start and remove any excess powdercoat paint from mating surfaces and bolt holes. It just wont go together right unless you do.

[Dick Strauss]

Kevin,
I've found the 3/8"-3tpi AS (alternate set) blades from Timberwolf work best for my uses. As Dario mentioned, the AS blades cut a wider kerf and work much better for wet wood. You'll be better off going with a different blade for dry wood if you care about the cut quality.

FYI-I originally had a Morse 1/2"-4tpi that didn't work nearly as well and didn't stay sharp long at all.

Cut discs from masonite for a cheap and easy solution.

[Gary DeWitt]

As far as alignment, I assume you're talking about keeping the top and bottom wheel co-planer. It's possible adding a riser will throw them out, but likely not by much. Remove table and use a long straightedge, level, what have you across top and bottom of both wheels at once, shim as needed.

[Gordon Seto]

Give your local sharpening place a try. $6 for a 105" 3 tpi blade made up while you wait, no shipping, no stocking up. Very knowledgeable owner, you just have to tell him what you want the blades for. They are almost as good as Timberwolf (which was what I used before). A lot of our Club members have switched.
At that price, you can afford to replace your blades very often. A new blade is always sharper than expensive blade that has passed its prime.

Gordon

[George Tokarev]

I like the circle jigs, keep you from trying to turn the piece while not advancing the blade, which is the number two cause of blade damage. Other thing they do is provide you a quick and easy way to trim off the excess weight on heart up log sections to make things easier and safer when you put the blank on the lathe. Doesn't have to be a Norm-style elaborate type, but it's a big help.

Those of us without risers make good use of the circle jig to nibble pieces thicker than the saw's capacity into round.

[Scott Crumpton]

The Griz riser block may very well throw off the wheel alignment. It did on mine and the replacement block wasn't much better. I had the saw in perfect alignment before adding the riser. As best I can tell, the riser block alignment pins were slightly rotated relative to the holes on the bottom of the block. This made it impossible to get the wheels aligned. I solved the problem with the dremel by taking about 2mm off the side of one of the pins. I suspect the entire run of blocks was bad.

---Scott.