crosscut sled ideas?

[Mike Steinhilper]

So many plans... can you share some ideas and/or pix of your crosscut sleds? I've got to get one built soon. I've seen some very simple ones, and some very elaborate. Ultimately accuracy is all I care about. I had a very simple one that used only one miter slot for my old table, but I'd like to build something bigger and more accurate for my new ts.

[Jim Becker]

The one I used on my cabinet saw was quite simple...based on Norm Abram's design. About 18" deep and 24" wide. Fence in the front; oak runners. Similar to this illustration: (line is the plane of the blade)

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[Mike Steinhilper]

Jim, that's what I used on my old saw. Is there any reason to go with runners in both slots as opposed to just one?

[Mike Henderson]

I don't have any studies that support this, but my belief is that a sled that runs in two slots will maintain its accuracy better over time than one that only uses one miter slot.

My only other pointer is to make the sled 24+ inches deep. I made mine a bit less than 24 inches and it's amazing how often I need to cut something 24 inches (I have a support on both the front and back of my sled so the width is the working space).

Mike

[Jim Becker]

Jim, that's what I used on my old saw. Is there any reason to go with runners in both slots as opposed to just one?

For this design, the sled doesn't straddle the blade, so you can't use two runners--it's more of a cut-off sled rather than something you can use to deal with small parts. For other sleds that do straddle the blade, two runners are the norm...as well as more thought to blade guarding since your body will be positioned with your hands and face more in the plane of the blade.

[Mark Singer]

I agree with Mike,...both slots should be used. I have one sled about 14" deep and the second 26"...The reason I have 2 is for many cuts the small one is easy to handle and use

[glenn bradley]

Here you go: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=50581

I'm a fan of two runners. They are not hard to line up. In the link above you'll see I use double stick tape, set the runners in the slots and use the fence as a reference to align the sled-bed. Once stuck on you can screw them down using the holes you prepared prior to sticking them on. Something I've learned; if you're forcing anything (screwing with no pilot holes for example) during assembly things end up out of alignment.

[Mike Buelow]

I don't have any studies that support this, but my belief is that a sled that runs in two slots will maintain its accuracy better over time than one that only uses one miter slot.

My only other pointer is to make the sled 24+ inches deep. I made mine a bit less than 24 inches and it's amazing how often I need to cut something 24 inches (I have a support on both the front and back of my sled so the width is the working space).

Mike

LOL I thought I was the only one who made this mistake! Spent about an hour on my first sled, then realized that it's x-cut capacity was less than my rip fence capability!

[Jim DeLaney]

...Spent about an hour on my first sled, then realized that it's x-cut capacity was less than my rip fence capability!

Not quite comprehending your meaning there. Do you mean I need a 52" crosscut sled, to match my Biesemeyer fence's capability?

I made my sled about 36" wide and 27" deep - the same depth as the table. I'm seriously considering making another one about 24" wide, and 16" deep for easier handling. I also pretty much figure that for most cuts longer than 16", it'll be okay to use the rip fence

[Don Bullock]

Check out http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=48899&highlight=table+sled for the ultimate sled.

[Brad Noble]

OK, pardon me for being a little dense here but, how do you go about "saving" a thread like you just did?

Brad

[glenn bradley]

O.T. - Copy the URL from your address bar and paste it into your post.

[Dewayne Reding]

I've only been using them for a couple weeks and have already figured out you need at least two sleds. :) My first sled is 16' deep. My second sled is in progress and will be about 26 deep. The front fence will be screwed rather than glued. You can cheat a huge board if you can hang it over the front of the sled. I wouldn't use a front fence at all but I'm sure it adds to longterm stability. (Less warp). If you try to do it all with one sled, it will either be too small, or too heavy about 50 % of the time.

[Mark Singer]

This is my bigger guy...http://sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=51408&d=1165094416

[Mike Steinhilper]

Mark, what is your base? I'm planning on MDF, although it will be pretty heavy.

[Mark Singer]

Mark, what is your base? I'm planning on MDF, although it will be pretty heavy.

Mike..1/2" MDF....walnut glides in the slots...Hond. Mahog. fences

[Mark Singer]

Here is my little guy...

[Karle Woodward]

I use a single runner like the one in Jim's picture. My runner is a high density synthetic material (I forget the name). I don't have the space (or don't want to waste what little space I have) on a big sled. I find it to be pretty accurate and less cumbersome. If for some reason it became less accurate over time, it's easy to adjust.

[Jeff Cargle]

I built this one from Highland hardware http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=Custom&ID=86

[Guy Germaine]

Here's mine. I think it's about 28" deep by 48" long. I use this one 99% of the time.
http://www.fototime.com/3196C3BB86044B5/standard.jpg

While you're at it, may as well make a miter sled too.
http://www.fototime.com/3F0BA2B1AAC4274/standard.jpg

[Mark Duginske]

For a class I teach on jigs and fixtures everyone makes a sled. In the drawings and photos it looks like the front and back fences are attached to the TOP of the sled. We make them with the front and back fence attached to the EDGE. Once you attach the runner(s) it is hard to adjust it. By attaching (screwing) the fences to the edge it allows a paper shim between the bottom and the fence to square the fence to the blade. By using the 5 cut method it allows you to "dial" it in with paper shims.

The Kreg aluminum fence and and stop (I sold the patent to Kreg Tool and do not make a royalty) allows you to make a very professional sled. The Kreg sight is www.kregtool.com (http://www.kregtool.com). I use a single runner with an adjustable metal bar so that it doesn't bind

Good luck,

Mark Duginske

[Alfred Clem]

Question: what advantages or differences does this type of sled offer over a Dubby?

[glenn bradley]

Alfred, The Dubby is a nice little unit. Very well thought out it appears. I'm not sure how it would do taking a 14" section off of a 30" x 84" panel. I built a large sled (about $20 in materials) for this sort of purpose but if I had a Dubby I doubt I would build a medium to small size sled.

[Al Willits]

Being a newbie, it was a challenge to built this stuff, the plywood rack was made out of construction lumber and ended up being for function only, as I started building the sleds, I tried to gain appearance also, hopefully I succeeded a little.
First one was a disaster and it make the scrap wood pile, second was smaller and seemed to work, but to small for some stuff, so I built a bigger one, here's the last two I built.
Long as I'm at it, here's my plywood rack with the clamp rack on it.
I'm trying to finish insulating the front part of the garage, and things are still a mess, well...the mess comes and goes depending on projects...:)
Al



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