Low buck router table or bench tool top

[Dewayne Reding]

I am building The NYW Deluxe router station, so I made my own top. Not sure about other stores, but I noticed my local Menards sells counter top cut off scraps. All laminated and ready to go. Pieces about as large as my router top for only two bucks. It would more than get you by for a while. Stock varies of course.

[Ted Shrader]

Along with Dewayne's top recommendation, look for scrap pieces of laminate in the sme section. I found some grey for real cheap to put on my router table top and TS extension table.

Ted

[Tim Wagner]

speaking of the NYW DRT. did you all purchase the video, and the drawings? just the drawings? or neither?

all the tool storage on it is an awsome Idea. especialy since you can spend upwards of a $100.00 on a router bit. you surly wouldn't want to misplace it or loose it for that kind of money.

[Tim Malyszko]

speaking of the NYW DRT. did you all purchase the video, and the drawings? just the drawings? or neither?

all the tool storage on it is an awsome Idea. especialy since you can spend upwards of a $100.00 on a router bit. you surly wouldn't want to misplace it or loose it for that kind of money.

I am currently building the NWY DRT and just purchased the drawing. At first, I wish I had purchased the DVD also, because the cut list and drawing was a bit overwhelming; however, after diving into it, I found the cut list/assembly directions very easy to follow and have no need for the DVD/Video.

I've followed the cut list to a tee and have absolutely no problems with fit so far. The only dimension that is incorrect in the drawing is the Plexiglass door. The directions call for a 16"x16" inch plexiglass to be cut to 16 7/8" square, but should read 15 5/8" square.

Materials wise, I think I'll end up spending around $250-$275 for everything (does not include router), which is a great bargin for a router table with LOTS of storage. I only purchased 4x8 sheets for this project, leaving me with a good amount of extra plywood and MDF for other projects.

The only deviation I really made from the instructions was to install T-tracks instead of cutting the captured thruslots, which allow the fence to slide fowards and back. This was a suggestion made by another Creeker. By doing it this way, I don't have to worry about wear on the underside and it will allow me to easily remove the fence.

It's been a most enjoyable project.

[Dave Carey]

I built one a couple of years ago and use it a lot. I found the plans to be sufficient (I had made a video of the program but found it didn't add that much.) Two things I wish I had done differently: 1. hinge the top (I've seen a piano hinge used) for easier access and 2. secure the upper right hand drawer front with magnets rather than glue (again for easier access.) I would think the laminated panels would work fine and for $2 wouod certainly be worth a try!