3HP or 5HP Grizzly Table Saw? Is it worth it?

[Matthew Moreno]

I have been doing my due diligence comparing my options for a TS that meets my budget, and I have narrowed it down to the G1023SLW 10" Left-Tilt Cabinet Table Saw with the 3 HP motor, or the G1023SLWX 10" 5 HP Single-Phase Left Tilt Cabinet Saw. The price difference is $125. Is it worth it? Thanks for any advice.

[Bruce Page]

Is it worth it? I’ve never needed the 2 extra hp. I have a 3hp Unisaw that has never needed more power - no matter what I’ve thrown at it. My shop is amp challenged so the deciding factor for me was the added amp requirements of the 5hp motor.

[Mike Heidrick]

My thoughts are that for $125 you cannot add it latter. Do it right the first time. Make sure you have the circuit to provide the extra amperage required. If so DO IT.

[Dave Falkenstein]

I too have a 3HP cabinet saw and have never taxed it in several years of home shop use. On the other hand, you can't go wrong with 5HP for an added $125. But... be certain you understand the power requirements. A 3HP saw needs a 220 circuit, which I had to add to my garage. If I recall correctly, the breakers on that circuit are 15 amps on each leg, maybe 20. The point is, a 5HP saw will surely need more power than a 3HP. Determine the power needs and match that against your shop to be sure you know what you are spending in total. I looked at the Grizzly site, and there is no mention of amperage that I could find. A phone call should get you the information you need.

ps - Thanks to Shiraz the 5HP saw requires a 220 volt, 30 amp circuit.

[Shiraz Balolia]

Specs. are linked from the main web page of the item.
Here's the link to the 5 H.P. model:

http://images.grizzly.com/grizzlycom/specsheets/g1023slwx_ds.pdf

[Mike Cutler]

3 or 5 kind of depends on your breaker box capability. Do you have enough capacity to run a 5 hp saw and a dust collector, in addition to all of the lights.
I don't know what kind of work you are doing but, if I were going 5HP,I'd be inclined to look at a 12" TS.

[Todd Tolhurst]

The saw will require 25A at full load. You'll want a 30A breaker, and you'll need to use 10ga wiring or better.

[glenn bradley]

Go for it. If you're still undecided, just price a quality 2HP motor. . . that outta push you over. I'm assuming you've already taken your electrical capability into account.

[John Grossi]

Matthew, for what it is worth, I bought that exact saw a few months ago. I figured 3 hp was all I would need. So far so good. Spend the extra $125.00 on a top quality blade. Paul

[Jamie Buxton]

There's no need for 5 hp in a 10" saw. Heck, I don't see a need for 3 hp. I have a Unisaw with a 1 1/2 hp motor. In thirty years of use, it has cheerfully cut everything I've thrown at it.

[Carroll Courtney]

125.00 savings would buy a good forrest blade:D

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi, go with a 3 HP motor, you will never need more, and a 3 HP motor will have higher efficiency in the light load region which is what most of your use will be. This will result in lower energy usage and cost.

Regards, Rod.

[Richard Keller]

Unless you plan to put trees directly thru your saw, 5HP is a waste, and for that matter, so is 3HP. I have a 2 HP contractor saw, and it cuts 3/4 and 1" like nothing. They key is a sharp blade, and a straight fence. Save the $$ on the saw, and on the power bill.

Richard.

[Dave Harker]

Mine is the 1023, 3hp version. I love the saw, and it is very, very powerful.

[Justin James]

If you've got (or can easily get) the shop wired for the requirements of the 5 horse saw, my elbow suggests going with that. Over the years, I've learned to listen to my elbow. It tells me that for what I often consider "routine" sawing jobs (assuming equal quality of machine and blade), the more-powerful saw will make it hurt less. As I get older, my elbow speaks more and more emphatically!

It does depend on the work being done. If ripping stock in quantity is an unusual operation for your shop, or if you seldom work with thick (say, 8/4 or thicker) hardwood stock, you might not need it. But its sure nice to have!

[Tom Jones III]

I generally say buy all the tool you can afford, but, I have never seen a need for 5 HP on my TS. I have a 3 HP and I have cut 3" of walnut and also 3/4" wide dados and I don't think the saw even noticed it.

[Eddie Darby]

How does a 5 hp saw fit into your shop? If you plan on running a lot of high amperage tools then 125 $ seems reasonable. I have never regretted too many ponies! If you have to run dedicated wiring and just for the one tool then the real cost is more than 125 $.

[Cody Colston]

Is it worth it? Sure. Like someone mentioned, you can't add it later for $125.

Do you need it? IMHO, no. I've got the 1023 3hp and have never wanted for power; never even came close. I'd take the previously offered advice and use the money for a Forrest WW2 blade. :)

[Roy McQuay]

I have a Jet Supersaw with 52" cut and 1.75 hp motor. I cut all hardwood, more white oak than anything else, with a Freud combination blade, and stacked dado, and have never had a problem in 3 years. I cut mostly 4/4 and 8/4 so I suppose if you cut a lot of 12/4 and 16/4 lumber the extra power will be needed. I am happy with what I have for what I do.

[lou sansone]

3 or 5 kind of depends on your breaker box capability. Do you have enough capacity to run a 5 hp saw and a dust collector, in addition to all of the lights.
I don't know what kind of work you are doing but, if I were going 5HP,I'd be inclined to look at a 12" TS.

I agree with mike on this. Seems that 10" would really only need a 3 hp motor. My current 12" slider has a 9 hp and that seems to be plenty of power.
lou