My new bandsaw--comments and questions

[Jameel Abraham]

I finally decided to get the Bridgewood. We'll see if I made the right decision.

I ordered this on a Tuesday and it arrived on Thursday, a day early.

It was quite well crated, completely enclosed with the saw laying on its spine--the base bolted to the end of the crate. I was expecting to saw to arrive upright as I've seen before, but packing it this way makes way more sense, safety-wise.

Some comments.

1. I thought the finish grind on the table was a bit rough. Waxing doesn't do much to reduce friction. Am I asking for too much here?

2. The table tilts by loosening a bolt and moving the table by hand, no rack and pinion, no fine adjust. I don't tilt the table much though, so its not a big deal.

3. No dust port under the table. And the bottom door stops about an inch short of the base, so there is a huge air leak there. I guess some rubber stripping would solve this.

4. The table is a little low for me. I'm 6'1", so I have to bend over to use it. I may try to jack it up a little, or just get used to it.

5. The BIG one. It doesn't turn on. I put a male plug on the end of the short lead coming from the magnetic switch, and plugged that into an extension I made. The power is getting to the switch just fine, there is some issue with the magnetic I'm guessing. When I took the cover off and pressed the plunger part in the middle of the magnetic switch, the motor kicked on just fine, so I'm thinking there may be a problem with a microswitch. Any help here would be REALLY great. I'd love to mount a blade and actually try this thing out!

6. Overall I'm really impressed. This is an awesome machine. Huge motor, big and beefy construction. Finally a serious bandsaw!

Thanks for everyone's help! More photos later.

[Richard Keller]

Try lifting the foot brake up. Some models have a safety switch on them - perhaps it needs adjustment?

Richard.

[Jameel Abraham]

I'll try that Richard. It's gotta be one of the switches.

Here are some more photos.

close up of the table surface
http://www.khalafoud.com/images/personal/dscn4486.jpg

back view
http://www.khalafoud.com/images/personal/dscn4506.jpg


Of almost forgot!! Anyone know what these are for? No mention in the owners manual (which is not at all up to date, by the way)
http://www.khalafoud.com/images/personal/dscn4497.jpg

(http://www.khalafoud.com/images/personal/dscn4167.jpg)

[Mike Cutler]

That's a nice saw Jameel, a very nice bandsaw.
I think that surface on the table is that way intentionally. My Rikon was the same way and one of the machinist at work said it was to reduce friction. I don't know if it's true or not. I put some Kroil on the table and ran a sanding block with emery cloth over it lightly. It seemed to "knock down" the "ridges". Then I waxed it with a hard Marine finish wax.

The switch might need to be replaced.
Still though, Nice bandsaw, I really like that fence.

Are those two pins in your post part of the mechanical stop mechanism on your table? Just a guess.

I'm 6'3" and all of my machines end up on some form of a base to get them higher off the ground. Kind of a pain isn't it?

Nice gloat all around Jameel. Have fun with that saw, it's a beauty.

[John Shuk]

Jameel,
The grind on the table seems to be standard on the higher end bandsaws. My Laguna is similar. I don't find it to be an issue. It just wasn't what I expected. You might want to double check that the switch and exstention are wired properly. My Laguna would start up and run but the magnet would not stay engaged at first. I had it wired wrong and once I discovered that I was OK. The european colors of the insulation were different enough to throw me off in a dark basement.
Best of luck with the saw. I'm sure you will be delighted with your choice.
John

[Ted Shrader]

Jameel -

I am 6'2" and my MM16 table hits me in about the same spot as in your picture. The table height is not really an issue, since I don't do much detail work requiring bending over to see a line. The vast majority of the time, standing up straight is the normal pose.

On the starter/motor issue. Double check the wiring to make sure the two hots are connected correctly and the neutral is where it is supposed to be.

Congratulations on your purchase.

Regards,
Ted

[Jamie Buxton]

I have a Laguna, built by ACM. I believe ACM also builds those Bridgewoods. There are two safety switches which prevent the saw from turning on. One is attached to the foot brake so that when you step on the brake the motor stops. The other is attached to the door (up at the top of the saw) so that the motor won't start if the door is open. If either switch is sticky or broken, that might explain your starting problem. (On my saw, the brake's switch is slightly sticky. If the saw doesn't start, I know to tap the brake, and that unsticks it.)

[mike hopkins devon,pa]

Which mobile base do you have that on and are you happy with it? Do you regret not going with the 20" saw?(just ordered one today)

[Jake Helmboldt]

Jameel, in your original post you mentioned something about the lower door having a gap (not closing all the way?). If that is the case and, as someone else mentioned, there is a switch to prevent the saw from running if the door is open, perhaps that is the problem? Maybe I misunderstood what you were saying about the door.

I put my 19" BS on a sand-filled plywood base, both to raise it about 4" and to dampen any vibration. I guess you could do the same and still use the mobile base.

Jake

[Jameel Abraham]

Richard,

The brake switch is disengaging from the pedal just fine. So that's not it.

Mike,
Thanks. I can live with table surface. I did hit it with some 400. Didn't do much. I should get some Bostich, that usually works pretty well. I don't think the pins are for the table. There is a bolt under that part of the table that stops it at 90.

John,

The switch and motor came prewired. The cord coming off the switch had three leads, white, black, and green/yellow (ground). Pretty simple wiring for 220. Can't really mess it up. So it must be one of those micro switches. If the magnetic switch is wired wrong, I wouldnt know. No diagram or info on it came with the saw.

Ted,

I guess the two hots are wired correctly in the switch. I just have to assume they are since I dont have any documentation. When I press the center of the switch the motor kicks on. This is my first machine with a magnetic starter, so it's all new to me. Yeah, I'll have to get used to the height.

Jamie,

I inspected both switches. They both seem to be plunging in and out just fine, no sticky action. Hmmm, maybe something on the inside of the switch itself?

Mike from devon,

I just told Curt to send a mobile base. Its a typical HTC. One thing I don't like and that's the single floor brake. Makes it kinda tippy with only the one contact point by the caster. So I ordered an extra so I could have 4 points of contact when locked. About the 20", yeah woulda been nice, but I can't afford this one, let alone another $700. This one should fill my needs for pretty-much the rest of my life. I don't think you'll be sorry with the 20", maybe your bank account will!

Jake,

The gap is is because the door is about 1" shorter than the frame, so it stops short of the base. It closes fine. I like your idea about the plywood base. Definitely worth considering after I spend some time with this saw. If only I could get it to work! Argghhh!!

[Pete Brown]

I finally decided to get the Bridgewood. We'll see if I made the right decision.
It looks like a very nice saw!


1. I thought the finish grind on the table was a bit rough. Waxing doesn't do much to reduce friction. Am I asking for too much here?
My MM16 has close to a mirror finish. However, the other MM tools usually come with a blanchard-type grind to them. It is supposed to help with friction. I personally think it is because that grind is cheaper/easier. However, if you go over it a little with a high-grit sanding block, you can knock down the high spots and you should have no issues. They can be hard to wax, so consider other rust prevention topcoats.


2. The table tilts by loosening a bolt and moving the table by hand, no rack and pinion, no fine adjust. I don't tilt the table much though, so its not a big deal.
I believe my MM16 is about the same. I have never had to tilt it, other than initial squaring-up.


3. No dust port under the table. And the bottom door stops about an inch short of the base, so there is a huge air leak there. I guess some rubber stripping would solve this.
The MM16 has weatherstripping around all the doors. The same should work for you. Make sure it doesn't interfere with any door-operated microswitches.


4. The table is a little low for me. I'm 6'1", so I have to bend over to use it. I may try to jack it up a little, or just get used to it.
If you need mobility, look at the zambus casters (www.zambus.com (http://www.zambus.com)) and see how much they'll raise the height before you go doing it through other means.


5. The BIG one. It doesn't turn on. I put a male plug on the end of the short lead coming from the magnetic switch, and plugged that into an extension I made. The power is getting to the switch just fine, there is some issue with the magnetic I'm guessing. When I took the cover off and pressed the plunger part in the middle of the magnetic switch, the motor kicked on just fine, so I'm thinking there may be a problem with a microswitch. Any help here would be REALLY great. I'd love to mount a blade and actually try this thing out!
Double-check the wiring inside the magnetic switch (and the junction box). If you don't have a diagram, as Bridgewood for one. Those are pretty specific and could just have a wire or two swapped. If the motor wouldn't have turned on at all, I'd suggest checking any door-operated safety microswitches (not sure if the bridgewood has those) and/or any foot brake switches (also not sure if the bridgewood has those)

Also make sure you're able to reliably serve the required volts/amps. It's possible the voltage is too low.

BTW, I assumed you checked to make sure you don't need to turn the switch before starting. On my MM16, you have to turn the red stop button so it pops out before you can start the saw. It took me a little bit at the beginning to figure that out. The MM16 manual was at least as terrible as yours, if not far worse (there's a replacement manual on the MiniMax yahoo group that was put together by folks in the group)


6. Overall I'm really impressed. This is an awesome machine. Huge motor, big and beefy construction. Finally a serious bandsaw!

That definitely looks like a nice saw. Once you get past the power issue, I think you'll be happy.

Pete

[Jim Becker]

Jameel, many of the Euro style saws have lower tables. My MM16 does. I've generally gotten used to it (I'm 5' 11"), but some folks have raised their saws up a bit. For re-saw and general cutting, the lower table really isn't that bad or is actually preferable. It's only when you need to do some scrolling that it could very well be more comfortable at a higher level. So...consider the kind of work you do and go from there!

Congrats on the new saw...'looks great in your shop!

BTW, it seems to be "standard" for the manuals on Euro style bandsaws to, umm...well...be inadequate. Even the really expensive and huge ones!

[Russ Massery]

I bought the Grizzly 17", I'm 5'5" so the table height is not an issue for me. I asked a lot of other large bandsaw owner's why they kept there 14" saw. Most had said because of the table is higher on the 14" and that makes it easier to shape cut. BTW, That's one Serious motor on your's. I still think you made a good choice. Good luck.

[Jameel Abraham]

Thanks for the tips Pete and Jim. Makes sense to me. I did try to rotate the off button. Doesn't rotate. I was hoping that was it. (and boy would I have felt stoopid). Just so you can see, check this video.

http://www.khalafoud.com/images/personal/relay.mov

So you can see the relay is working, the motor and cord are wired correctly, must be an issue with one of the three switches or the wiring between the switches. The wiring on this machine is complex and goes through the column and such. I sure hope I don't have to analyze the wiring on this thing. I can't imagine spending an entire day getting this saw set up (and that doesn't even include mounting a blade!) uncrated and assembled just to have to send it back. I HOPE this isn't necessary. I mean, how does Wilke handle service? I never thought of THAT before I made this purchase! I feel like I'm about to open a big can of worms come Monday morning. What a bummer!

[Pete Brown]

I doubt you'd have to send back the saw.

I checked the Wilke site and they test run the saw under power before sending it to you. It's possible something was damaged in transit, but that makes me think you want to double-check your wiring.

That switch looks similar to the Grizzly magnetic switch. Let me see if I can find the wiring diagram for that.

Open each of the bandsaw doors and do your test again. If you are able to still get that far, it is possible a microswitch in the door is stuck. If not, then you know the microswith is not the issue.

The way your saw is acting is exactly what mine did until I realized I had to turn that red knob until it clicked out. Can you remove the switch panel and check that? You sure that knob doesn't turn? ;-)

Pete

[Pete Brown]

Here's the diagram for the Grizzly G4572 Switch. This may help, as it looks similar inside.

Pete

[Don Bullock]

Congratulations on your new saw. Enjoy.

["Gary Brewer"]

Hi Jameel: Make sure the red shut off knob is pulled all the way out. When it is pushed it it doesn't bounce back to the original position. You need to pull is out all the way to allow the band saw to start with the green button. Give a yank on it and see. There is a second detent. It is a safety feature. Congratulations on the saw!!
Gary

["Gary Brewer"]

Jameel: I've got the 540:
FYI
The finish on my 540 table looks to be a little more polished.
My gap on the bottom front door is 7/16".
I have two of those "pins" and don't know what they are for. Let me know if you find out.
All the band saws I looked at had a short table height. I know other people have built up the base. I might do the same. I'll work with it for a while and see
I got a dust connector from Woodcraft for $4.99 plus tax for the dust port to connect to my 4" pipe. It was some 4" connector. I might be able to find the receipt if you need their name for it. It fit over the bandsaw connector and the 4" DC connector fit over the other end. I think it is just a basic 4" connector. Cheap and easy.
I got a 10-3 600 volt rubber extension wire, twist lock plug and receptical from HomeDepot. I removed the pigtail from the starter and just went with the the 8 foot cord I made from the HD stuff. Probably 12 gage would do but the heavier gauge cord fit the connectors in the magnetic starter box better and I had run heavier gauge wire to the receptical. Just for your information.
From my earlier post try pulling out the red stop switch. It doesn't reset when it is pushed and if Wilke tested it they probably pushed it in. My was. Enjoy your new beast!
Gary Brewer

[Jameel Abraham]

Pete, thanks for your effort, but the diagram didn't open. Didn't need it after all. (see below)

Gary,

You are my new hero!! Yanking the stop knob out did it! I had pulled on it before, but never imagined it had an extra detent there. It definitely needed a firm pull. Thanks also for the DC tips. Now I can mount a blade and make some dust this afternoon after church. Yessss!

[Pete Brown]

Gary, You are my new hero!! Yanking the stop knob out did it! I had pulled on it before, but never imagined it had an extra detent there. It definitely needed a firm pull. Thanks also for the DC tips. Now I can mount a blade and make some dust this afternoon after church. Yessss!

Very cool. I'm glad you got it working

Most of those switches must be similar. My MM16 twists and pops out. I see this one just pops out.

This is a good thread to have in the archives :D

Pete

[Jake Helmboldt]

Jameel, glad to hear it is working. There is nothing worse than having problems with a new tool, especially an expensive one. It is always a relief when the solution is simple.

Now get to making some ouds; those are impressive and makes things like tables and nightstands look like childs play. Hopefully the saw performs well now that you've got juice to it.

JH

[Brian Hale]

Congrats On The New Saw!!!

I'm Green with envy! :D

Little late to the party but...... On most magnetic switches the big red button (E-Stop) gets pushed in to stop the motor and when you want to start it, turn the button a 1/4 turn or so and it pop out, providing you have power to the switch. I'm assuming yours is similar (embossed arrows on the button?) Of course you may find you don't use it much because the pedal will stop the blade quicker.

I'm at a loss for the pins, perhaps Wilke can tell you?

Before you try to seal up the bottom door, run it with the DC connected and see what happens. My MM16 has one DC port under the table and i find a lot of sawdust built up in the bottom of the saw where your DC port is. Perhaps it'll work better?

I'm glad you put that video up. Man, don't you just love the way that saw hums!! No little metal to metal noises like mine. It sounds hungry :cool:

Best of luck with the new toy and keep us informed on how it performs.

Brian :)

[Jameel Abraham]

Guys,

Thanks for the nice comments. I am SO glad I got it going. Heading out to the shop now to mount a blade and get er going.

Brian, I will take your advice about the DC. I have a Clear Vue that's just sitting here waiting to be set up! The next big project I guess. Yeah, I love the hum, but that was without a blade or anything, so I'm guess it will sing a different tune with a blade on. I'll post an update later today.

Jake, speaking of ouds, I though I'd post a couple picks of my latest. This one is in cherry.

[Jameel Abraham]

http://www.mikeouds.com/messageboard/viewthread.php?action=attachment&tid=3959&pid=30959

http://www.mikeouds.com/messageboard/viewthread.php?action=attachment&tid=3959&pid=30960


http://www.mikeouds.com/messageboard/viewthread.php?action=attachment&tid=3959&pid=30961

http://www.mikeouds.com/messageboard/viewthread.php?action=attachment&tid=3959&pid=30962

(http://www.mikeouds.com/messageboard/viewthread.php?action=attachment&tid=3959&pid=30962)

[Pete Brown]

(Oud Photos)

Jameel, that is beautiful!

[Steve Bagi]

Jameel,

Wow, that's awesome. How long did that take you to make?

I have an MM16 which I raised 7" with a torsion box and castors. I'm 6' 2" and the table was way too low for me. Good luck with your saw.

[Jameel Abraham]

Thanks Pete and Steve. I work on ouds on the weekend, and that one took me probably three months I'd say. Hard to tell for sure.

I did a bit of cutting tonight. Just some basic stuff with a 1/4" blade. So far I love it, except the height. I can tell already I'm going to need to raise it.

Steve, care to share some pics of your rasied base? Did you bolt the saw to it? I'm a little worried about tipping. Maybe something welded would be better?

[Jim Becker]

Awesome that the saw is up and running!

I was going to ask you about the instruments, Jameel and am glad you posted some picture links...I was browsing the site you linked to earlier in the thread. Beautiful stuff!!!

If I may suggest it, when you have the opportunity, do a pictorial for us here at SMC about what goes into making an oud! I think there would be a lot of folks interested... ;)

[Steve Bagi]

Jameel,

The torsion box is 1/2" BB, put together with plenty of glue and brads. The grid inside is around 8" square with reinforcing blocks glued into the corners where the castors screw into. The castors are from Woodcraft that I got on sale, they have a 150lb capacity each. Make sure to use some heavy screws to attach.

56322

56323

[Jameel Abraham]

Thanks Jim. I'll think about doing the pictorial when I get a chance.

Steve. Nice pics. Thanks. This is a nice setup, but I just bought a mobile base for this saw! I think maybe I'll build up the base of the saw so it still fits in the mobile base. Did you attach the saw to the base at all?

[Steve Bagi]

Jameel,

I used 6" hex bolts to attach it to the base of the saw. Maybe you can return the mobil base. Good luck.

[Jameel Abraham]

Just found out from Wilke that these are extra guide fittings used to mount aftermarket guides.

http://www.khalafoud.com/images/personal/dscn4497.jpg

[Ron Blaise]

I'm 6' and my 18" Rikon is 38" floor-to-table so it hits me just right. You could probably put yours on a riser with little problem. Enjoy your saw.

[Dan Forman]

Jameel---The bigger band saws are set up height wise for resawing. I just sit down on a high stool for detail work, puts the table at a good height and it's comfortable to boot. Resaw is then comfortable while standing too, and saw remains stable. Just a thought.

Dan

[Jameel Abraham]

Dan, I did try sawing on a stool. Very comfortable, but not ideal for quick working or anything above a small workpiece, since my body would get in the way!

I built a couple blocks that fit right in the mobile base. They are bolted to the saw, but not to the base. I also added an extra floor lock to the caster end of this base. Much more stable now. Table height is just perfect, and the saw is as stable as it was before. I used 6 layers of 3/4 mdf, painted to match the saw. I wanted green, but couldn't find a chuck of saw that I could remove and have the paint store match. This is a big improvement for tall folks.

[John Bailey]

I sure like that saw Jameel. Hope you keep us in mind when you start making sawdust with it.

John