The Smoking Drill Bit

[Tim Brooks]

I realize sharpness of the bit plays into this equation but I wanted to get some opinions on drill bits for drilling pen blanks. As all of you know, there are two types of drill bits noted in the pen instructions for drilling the hole in pen blanks, i.e. there is the brad point and the pen turners types of drill bits. --I know you're thinking how basic! I'm still learning my way into this vortex called turning...

I purchased one of each in varying sizes as Woodcraft was out of the pen turners bit in the 7mm size. I was using both to drill the blanks I will turn tonight. What I noticed is, the brad point seemed to have a great deal more difficulty than the pen turners bit both right out of the packaging. It also split blanks that the pen turners blank did not.

The clerk at Woodcraft was trying to be helpful in assisting in my purchase when she asked if they were out of the pen turners bit in the 7mm size. When I responded with a yes, she said, "Oh okay." To which I replied, "Why?" She said, “I just prefer the pen turners bit, that’s all.” I found myself wondering if she was more interested in the sale than letting me know the downsides, if there are any, to using the brad point bits.

Do any of you have preferences and if so, why?

[Tim Brooks]

:confused:

[Bernie Weishapl]

I use the brad point myself. One thing you can't do or you will split the blank with either bit is try to drill thru without stopping. Without clearinn the chips it creates heat which will split the blank. It will split the blank almost every time when it gets smoking hot. I use my drill press and drill maybe a 1/2" and then draw the bit out so it can clear the chips. Then drill some and draw it out to clear the chips. I do this several times until I get all the way thru. The Pen Turners Workbook by Barry Gross says to use the brad point. He goes on to state that doing what I explained above will clear the chips, thus avoiding heat and not blowing out your blank. Hope this helps.

[John Hart]

I concur with Mr Weishapl. Keeping the flutes clear is extremely important...even if you have to stop and dig them out. Any time I have smoke...it's due to clogged flutes.

[Jonathon Spafford]

Ya clogged flutes will do it everytime... you want to keep 'em clean. Even if it doesn't split your blank, heat can cause checks which can ruin your blank down the road. Oh, and if you want the drill to cut smoother and cut down on friction and heat try putting paste wax on the bit... you'll still need to clear the flutes every .5" or so, but it will cut down on friction and makes it easier to use.

[Bruce Boone]

It makes good sense to bite the bullet and get a full set from somewhere like Harbor Freight or MSC. I got a cobalt set at a good price. By the time you add up all the cost of onesies from a place like WoodCraft, you can have the full set with every drill you'll ever need. The standard jobber drills work fine for me.

[Curt Fuller]

Bernie gives good advice! And I've learned the expensive way that what Bruce says is true. One other bit of advice, if you're not already doing this. If the pen uses two pieces, cut the blank first and then drill each piece separately. The bit doesn't have to go in as deep and creates less friction and heat.

[Gary Herrmann]

I really like brad points. I bought a 7mm and a 10mm with my LV gift card. When I drill out a pen blank half, I think I clear the chips 3 or 4 times.

[Bob Hallowell]

I mostly use brad bits and a few standard bits for the holes over 1/2 in. I never heard of a pen turners bit:confused: . I do split blanks but it is very rarely. I do as Bernie pointed out. Go about 1/2 then back out and knock the chips out and so forth.

Bob

[Jon Shively]

Man, clogging your flutes can ruin a day can't it!!!!!!?????? grin
Thanks for the wax tip. Clean my drill bit out so often I can't count without making a pen, hope to know tomorrow! Do know though, with antler, I do have to stop and clear the flutes, they do tend to clog. The only blank I split was ebony, it was also the only blank I blew up while turning, think it had a crack that I didn't identify and/or CA. Either way, use a brad point also, tends to stop drill drift. Haven't heard of a pen turners bit, wonder what the up charge on that name change is.

[Bill Boehme]

there are two types of drill bits noted in the pen instructions for drilling the hole in pen blanks, i.e. there is the brad point and the pen turners types of drill bits

What type of drill are you referring to when you refer to yhe type that pen turners prefer?

Bill

[Bill Turpin]

I drill using a centering vise. Use what Bernie said, but add a continuous jet of compressed air at the entrance of bit to the wood. Increase the flow during the actual raising of the bit. I have a rubber tipped air nozzle that will not harm the bit. This helps to clean the flutes and COOLS the bit. Moisture and resin in the blanks creates steam/vapor that actually blows a blank apart from pressure. We have a small shop refrigerator where we refrigerate problem blanks like yellowheart, A. blackwood, bloodwood, etc before drilling. :)

Bill Turpin in WNC mountains