Finishes

[Rich Stewart]

We are just now starting to get some really cold weather here and I am wondering how finishes, oils and lacquers and such, hold up in temperatures of 9 degrees F. Am I going to have to replace everything in the spring?

Thanks,

Rich

[Al Wasser]

I have always heard/read/experienced that oil finishes handle those freezing temps OK, but not the water based stuff.

[Rich Stewart]

Makes sense.

Thanks,
Rich

[John Hart]

It's been pretty cold around here. (This morning, it was 4 degrees F) My spray and brush on lacquer (hic):o, shellac, oils, crayons...etc., have all been just fine.

[Jim Becker]

Best practice is to keep them warm, but as previously said, oil-based finishes will be less affected than water borne products. The latter specifically prohibit freezing. That said, given short shelf-lives of oil-based products once the container is opened, good planning should result in you not having too much hanging around over the winter when you can't use them anyway if you have a cold shop.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Rich my poly doesn't seem to do real well when it has subjected to real cold. It didn't seem to affect my oil based finishes. I just started moving everything in to a warm place.

[David Walser]

We are just now starting to get some really cold weather here and I am wondering how finishes, oils and lacquers and such, hold up in temperatures of 9 degrees F. Am I going to have to replace everything in the spring?

Thanks,

Rich
I don't ever let my finishes get that cold. I store them outside, out of the air conditioning. ;) (Written in Mesa, where the the high today will be a chilly 66 degrees.)

[George Tokarev]

Proper answer seems slow in coming, so while my shellac dries I'll pop in with my take.

Two kinds of finish under review, those that dry by solvent evaporation, and those that cure by chemical reaction. The first are lacquer and shellac, of course. The solvent make take a little more time to evaporate in the cold because of lower vapor pressure. Not a big deal, I suppose.

With oils that need to pick up oxygen to crosslink or polymerize, the delay caused by slowing the molecular action and the chemical reaction can be fatal or nearly so. Cold can cause an increase in viscosity to the point that a cure will take forever. Cases in point are the oils which do not not contain siccatives like raw tung and linseed, or the nut oils used for finishing. They're slow to cure in warmer temperatures, but can take days or even weeks in cooler temps. Since the resins cure at a different rate than the oils, might be impossible to get a harder finish.

I'd go with what's on the can and get things to that magic 20C/68F for best and most consistent results. Doesn't have to be a whole room, could be a lighbulb warming the air in a box or tent like me draping a blanket over the hood of the tractor and putting a 100 watt bulb under when it's too cold for diesel.

[Al Wasser]

George, you are correct that using finishes in cold temps is not good. I thought the original question had to do with storing stuff in cold temps. I agree that using the stuff is much better if the piece being finished and the finishing product are both at nominal room temp and can be maintained there while drying. The wifes pretty good about having a couple bowls dring in the laundry room and a can of finish warming for use later in the day. Speaking od which I need to go bring a can of Waterlox in.........

[George Tokarev]

Even storage in the cold can pose problems, because a lot of curing finishes aren't really solutions, and can precipitate or separate based on different freezing points. Solvent finishes will endure better. Opening in warm air and then returning to the cold can introduce moisture in the form of condensation. Store inside, use when warm conditions are prepared is still the best.