The Plan and a couple ?s

[Bud North NJ]

Although the new house won't be ready 'til March, I'm trying to get the shop set up for the garage that's pitched 4" front to back.
The idea of putting down a wood floor instead of pouring a new level concrete floor seems like a good idea to me,so.... here's my plan:
20' PT 2x6s ripped from 1 1/2 to 5 1/2 set just in Liquid Nails and topped with 3/4" ply.
Questions:
Should I put poly down on top of 2xs (obviously not under the Liquid Nails),
and insulation would keep the floor a bit warmer,so does the poly go on top AND between "joists" as a full sheet and insulation over the poly.

Should I use T&G ply or would nailers suffice at ply joints.

[Don Abele]

Bud, I did something very similar to my place in Maine. I put down a wooden subfloor though more for insulation and the fact that the concrete is just hard on the body. You will get not only the benefit of a level floor, but the ease on the body (and any dropped tools).

The vapor barrier goes on the warm side of the wall or floor (that is the side facing in). This is to avoid condensation on the barrier itself. So it would go on top of the joists, under the ply.

Also, with joist lengths of 20', I would use stretchers between them to stop them from twisting over that long of a distance. As for flooring, I like T&G put down with deck screws (no gaps and no squeeks).

Be well,

Doc

[Todd Burch]

I've never done this, but one thing I would consider, if I had the space, would be to lay a ramp at the front of the garage, say 4' wide, so that items could be rolled into and out of the shop easily, as opposed to having a 4" high hard step. Yellow saftey tape around the ramp might be a good idea too. Let us know how it works out.

Todd.

[Tony Falotico]

Hi Bud, I just had a building built for me, and went with wood floors. The contractor used 2x6 joists at 12" o.c. covered with 5/8" (?) pressure treated plywood. I then laid 30# felt over the ply and covered with 3/4" T&G laid perpendicular to the sub floor and screwed at 12" o.c. with 3" deck screws through the two layers into the joist.

Overkill? : maybe, expensive? : YES, Solid? : YES!

[Jim Becker]

Bud, I wish I did this in my shop before "moving in", although my slope is only about half of yours. To make things easier, you might consider placing the "joists" across the space, rather than front to back so you can make one long bevel rip for each one, rather than having to deal with the tapers. Todd's idea of a ramp is a great idea, although I'd probably do it as a portable unit that goes outside the door, rather than taking up shop space and causing a potential tripping hazzard, even with proper marking. That's a big drop you have!