Terry Hatfield
11-24-2003, 10:07 PM
Hello everyone,
I have no clue if this was the right thing to do or not, but it worked for me. Your input is appreciated.....
I decided to make a pair of tall resaw fences for my book matched door panel resaw. I needed some way to keep the 11 3/4" wide panels vertical. I did a test trying to hold the panel freehand with only the short stock Grizzly fence....easier said than done. :D
This is what I came up with......
<IMG SRC="http://www.terryhatfield.com/rsfencefront.JPG">
I made a pair of these, one for each side of the blade. They are 11" tall. The fences are made from 3/4" mdf. The vertical section is set in a 1/4" deep dado in the base. The vertical is glued and screwed to the base. I used a 1/2" round over bit to make a rounded "nose" on the vertical.
<IMG SRC="http://www.terryhatfield.com/rsfencebottom.JPG">
The bases are 7" deep and 18" long. I determined that to be about the right size for the fences on my Grizzly G0513 bandsaw. Your mileage/measurments may vary. :D The verticals are 9" wide and 10 1/2" tall. I let the vertical stick out the front 2" so I could move the board being resawn from side to side if necessary to keep the cut going striaght.
I just clamped the fences to the table of the saw leaving a gap the same size as the board being resawn and centering the blade in that opening. I placed the centerline of the verticals at the front of the blade. I did that to help with moving the board from side to side if necessary. It turned out on this one that I did not need to move the board because the blade tracked nicely down the center of the board.
I did remove the front factory fence rail from the table to make the clamping easier. This is a easy job as the rail is only held on by 2 bolts.
<IMG SRC="http://www.terryhatfield.com/rsfence1.JPG">
<IMG SRC="http://www.terryhatfield.com/rsfence2.JPG">
Timberwolf recommended a 3/4" 2tpi PC (3402PC) blade for resawing this width. I did some tests with it and it was too agressive and the kerf was too wide for my liking. I was afraid that I would not be able to get the saw marks planed out and have the finished panel thickness I needed.
I called Timberwolf and they sent a different blade. The 3/4" 3tpi AS thin kerf (3403AS). This blade performed well for this resaw. It was not a fast as the 2tpi blade, but the finish was much smoother. Here are the raw resawn boards before planing.
<IMG SRC="http://www.terryhatfield.com/rsraw.JPG">
And here are the boards after planing.
<IMG SRC="http://www.terryhatfield.com/bookmatch2.JPG">
<IMG SRC="http://www.terryhatfield.com/bookmatch1.JPG">
Please let me know what you think of my fence idea. All I know about it is that it worked. This was my first attempt at resawing anything close to this big. All in all I think it turned out well, but your input is appreciated as always.
Thanks,
Terry
BTQ....Ken....Was that what you had in mind??? :confused:
I have no clue if this was the right thing to do or not, but it worked for me. Your input is appreciated.....
I decided to make a pair of tall resaw fences for my book matched door panel resaw. I needed some way to keep the 11 3/4" wide panels vertical. I did a test trying to hold the panel freehand with only the short stock Grizzly fence....easier said than done. :D
This is what I came up with......
<IMG SRC="http://www.terryhatfield.com/rsfencefront.JPG">
I made a pair of these, one for each side of the blade. They are 11" tall. The fences are made from 3/4" mdf. The vertical section is set in a 1/4" deep dado in the base. The vertical is glued and screwed to the base. I used a 1/2" round over bit to make a rounded "nose" on the vertical.
<IMG SRC="http://www.terryhatfield.com/rsfencebottom.JPG">
The bases are 7" deep and 18" long. I determined that to be about the right size for the fences on my Grizzly G0513 bandsaw. Your mileage/measurments may vary. :D The verticals are 9" wide and 10 1/2" tall. I let the vertical stick out the front 2" so I could move the board being resawn from side to side if necessary to keep the cut going striaght.
I just clamped the fences to the table of the saw leaving a gap the same size as the board being resawn and centering the blade in that opening. I placed the centerline of the verticals at the front of the blade. I did that to help with moving the board from side to side if necessary. It turned out on this one that I did not need to move the board because the blade tracked nicely down the center of the board.
I did remove the front factory fence rail from the table to make the clamping easier. This is a easy job as the rail is only held on by 2 bolts.
<IMG SRC="http://www.terryhatfield.com/rsfence1.JPG">
<IMG SRC="http://www.terryhatfield.com/rsfence2.JPG">
Timberwolf recommended a 3/4" 2tpi PC (3402PC) blade for resawing this width. I did some tests with it and it was too agressive and the kerf was too wide for my liking. I was afraid that I would not be able to get the saw marks planed out and have the finished panel thickness I needed.
I called Timberwolf and they sent a different blade. The 3/4" 3tpi AS thin kerf (3403AS). This blade performed well for this resaw. It was not a fast as the 2tpi blade, but the finish was much smoother. Here are the raw resawn boards before planing.
<IMG SRC="http://www.terryhatfield.com/rsraw.JPG">
And here are the boards after planing.
<IMG SRC="http://www.terryhatfield.com/bookmatch2.JPG">
<IMG SRC="http://www.terryhatfield.com/bookmatch1.JPG">
Please let me know what you think of my fence idea. All I know about it is that it worked. This was my first attempt at resawing anything close to this big. All in all I think it turned out well, but your input is appreciated as always.
Thanks,
Terry
BTQ....Ken....Was that what you had in mind??? :confused: