Hollow Core Door for Oufeed Table?

[Sam Chambers]

I need to build an oufeed table for my Unisaw, but my shop space is too small for a big, stationary table. After looking at a recent thread here, I had a thought...

What if I build a relatively small, say 24" deep, fixed outfeed table, attached firmly to the back rail of my Biesemeyer fence, with braces to support the far end. Then from that, I'd hang a hollow core door from hinges, so it'd fold down when not needed. I'd attach adjustable folding legs to the hollow core door to support it when in the up position.

A hollow core door is essentially a lightweight torsion box, right? That being the case, it should stay relatively flat.

Has anyone else done something like this?

[Frank G]

Yep. Did it a long time ago. Use to just wax it alot but no fun then found a large sheet of laminate to put on it. Hit the laminate places and they usually have lefty overs from some job they will sell cheap. I think mine was pink. Did I take a beating on that one.

[brian lanning]

What if I build a relatively small, say 24" deep, fixed outfeed table, attached firmly to the back rail of my Biesemeyer fence, with braces to support the far end. Then from that, I'd hang a hollow core door from hinges, so it'd fold down when not needed. I'd attach adjustable folding legs to the hollow core door to support it when in the up position.

A hollow core door is essentially a lightweight torsion box, right? That being the case, it should stay relatively flat.

Has anyone else done something like this?

I think a hollow core door isn't really a tortion box. It's hollow. I've used them for computer desks for years. And the weight of monitors really makes the outer skin flex. I doubt you'll have this problem, and it would probably work. But why not just use melamine? A sheet of melamine is about the same price as a hollow core door. You can band it with some sort of hardwood. You can cut it to the exact size you want. And attach it with then hinges the same way. It has a slick surface. I make all my shop table tops out of it.

brian

[Thomas Canfield]

One problem to consider with a hollow core door is cutting slots for the miter gage to extend into when the outfeed table is in place. I had made a free standing table to go behind my contractor saw, but had to keep moving it when using the miter gage. I have since made a outfeed table using melamine banded with scrap wood similar to one in American Woodworker about 6 months ago. I found the folding table leg hinges at Rockler and have the table sitting on the back angle (part of the Beisemier fence system) and held in place with a couple of hanger bolts for easy removal. I routed slots for both miter gage slots and cut the notch for the splitter/guard. I did add a stiffner board under the routed slots to put back some strength, but it may not have been needed. Now I can lift it off and fold down the legs to store it when more space is needed.

[Sam Chambers]

Thomas:

I had been thinking about the miter slot issue. My idea is to size the fixed portion of my outfeed table so it's deep enough to accommodate the miter bar all the way past the center of the saw blade. That way, I won't have to worry about cutting the hollow core door.

[James Suzda]

I've thrown a hollow core door over some saw horses to use as a lightweight work table and I've made some riser blocks for the saw horses to use the door as a outfeed table. Works great as long as you have an extension on your saw that has the miter gage slots cut in it.
Surprising how much weight these doors will support, but I don't' think I'd want to use one for scaffolding.
Jim

[Jim Becker]

Should work fine since you'll not generally be "pounding" on it. You could also cover it with plastic laminate to futher stiffen things. Just be sure your supports lock into the solid wood at the edges.

[Noah Katz]

"I think a hollow core door isn't really a tortion box. It's hollow."

The one I saw the inside had a cardboard honeycomb filling. If there were nothing in there, you could push the skin in eassily by hand.

But no matter; the torsional stiffness comes from the spaced skins, not the core.

[Brian Penning]

There`s a great plan at the attached link that I followed. It works great.
Below is a pic of my version. You might be able to use your door as the folding part.http://sawsndust.com/p-outfeed.htm

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f193/Bri68/Miscilaneous/IMG_1935.jpg

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f193/Bri68/Miscilaneous/IMG_1934.jpg

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f193/Bri68/Miscilaneous/IMG_1937.jpg

[Jim Becker]

Nice job, Brian...looks familiar...LOL!

---

Actually the fixed portion is not unlike using a door as the OP asks about...just a little wider. As long as the support can be provided, it should be quite workable. The one downside is that a hollow core door isn't going to be friendly to the required miter slots, so I concur with you that using the door for the fold-down portion is probably the better idea.

[Brian Penning]

:o Duh!!.......It's the mustache that threw me off....yeah, that's it...

[Sam Chambers]

Brian and Jim, that's exactly what I've been picturing in my brain! Actually, I think I was looking at Jim's web site when I started thinking about the hollow core door thing.

[Jim Becker]

I was a little bummed at first that the gal who bought my Jet saw on Monday is not going to be using the outfeed setup...until she told me that she's doing a double saw, back to back setup...the Jet LT combined with a RT saw she is yet to buy. (Alan Turner has that setup in the teaching studio) That makes for a big outfeed solution for both saws.

Sam, the door will save you construction time, but you should also compare the material cost for building the think yourself. You don't need fantastic plywood...'could even use MDF with scrap-wood framing, etc.

[Sam Chambers]

Sam, the door will save you construction time, but you should also compare the material cost for building the think yourself. You don't need fantastic plywood...'could even use MDF with scrap-wood framing, etc.
Speed is what I'm kind of focused on, Jim. My shop time is limited, and I need to use the saw to get other things done. I need an outfeed table, and figured this might be the quickest solution. Hollow core doors are dirt cheap at my local Borg. So, all I really need to do is get the fixed portion built, measure the distance to the floor, mount the widest HC door that will fit, and slap on some legs.