Lots of wood coming my way...what to do? No really =)

[Aaron Buys]

I just found out my parents are having about 15 trees taken down anytime this week or next. Most are one to two feet in diameter and range from cherry to hickory in variety. They have a local tree company coming to cut them down but all wood will be left for us in 4 foot sections. I doubt I'll have room to keep it all so I'm planning on sorting through it and trying to find the best cuts of the bunch. What should I look for/stay away from as I go through it all? Also, whats the best way for me to store the wood? Seal the pieces and leave them whole? Cut them and store them to dry? I've never salvaged wood this way before so I'm not quite sure what to do to assure I'll have quality wood to turn later. Thanks!

[David Foshee]

I have done it both ways. If I don't have time to deal with the logs I seal the ends with a waxy endsealer like anchorseal or something simular. Then later I can cut it up into proper turning blanks. This also gives you the freedom of using the logs for other stuff if you do other wood working. Sometimes I process them all at once into proper truning blanks then seal with the waxy endsealer to prevent cracking. If possible store the logs under a shed. I Found that the endsealer degrades when left out in the elements.

[Mark Pruitt]

Assuming you own a decent chainsaw that you can whip out and put to use whenever you wish, it seems that it would be easier on you to store the logs whole, with the ends sealed.

Also, I posted this link (http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/techline/producing-spalted-wood.pdf) a few days ago for someone else, but I'll put it here in case you didn't catch it. Something to think about as you consider what to do with all those logs.

[Frank Kobilsek]

Aaron

Focus on the 2 foot diameter pieces. Leave them as long as you can handle so if you are young, strong and have friends like that 4' long pieces are great. 25 years of office work, short, bald & fat requires a loader tractor. Seal with anchorseal or store brand green log sealer. If possible protect from rain and sun and use a couple of the 1' diameter pieces to keep your good logs up off the ground.

Also cherry is a joy to turn. Hickory is hard and will crack severely if not promptly sealed and protected. You said a 'range' so I just guessing but save in the following priority, Cherry, maple (any and all), walnut, other fruits (apple pear etc.) ash, with the Hickory and Oaks last or left for firewood. Fruits may store the poorest so use first.

I store logs indoors and have good luck storing well sealed (when fresh cut) logs for 1 to 2+ years. Others may argue that point. Wood cut when dormant seems to keep best, spring cut wood may not keep as well.

Stock up but I think many here will admit to on some occasion in thier turning life have gotten selfish overloading thier log pile and later regretted the mess they hauled home. I am not mature enough to suggest how much is too much but I would think you are in a position to find out.

Pull on your boots and gloves and start stacking!

Frank

[Pete Jordan]

Aaron,

You did say you drive by my house every now and then didn't you?

[Aaron Buys]

Aaron,

You did say you drive by my house every now and then didn't you?


Ha! You bet Pete. I'll be sure to drop the best of it off at your place =). Thanks for the detailed responses guys! Thats exactly what I was looking for. I think I'll go with the sealer method and keep the stuff whole. As for the storage of the wood...am I better off keeping it outside and covered or in a garage or storage room?

[Jim Ketron]

Save all the larger size Crotch pieces that you can!
you will find some beautiful figure in those!

[Jonathon Spafford]

I would send all that junk here... I know some super quick ways of disposing of all that!

[Richard Madison]

Aaron,
Probably indoors in garage or storage room is better. If outdoors and covered, should not be tightly covered but have ample air circulation around the logs.

[Curt Fuller]

Go rent a nice big trailer and load it and your pickup with all it will hold. Then start driving west by southwest until you come to a place that has lots of guys walking around with several women and even more kids, where the big lake tastes like salt, and the beer tastes like water. When you find all that just start honking your horn and I'll come out and help you unload it.

[Tom Keen]

We are in the process of taking 90 mature trees out of our woods. Its been an interesting job. The fellow who doing the cutting has offered a lot of good advice on storage.

Maple and oak will rot quickly, walnut and cherry can lay on the ground for a couple of years before serious decay begins. Hickory is pretty but not much fun to turn. Ash is wonderfull but starts to "stain" when exposed to air.

I suggest you keeping the logs as long as possible and leave the bark on. It will assist in slowing down the drying process. Look for rot in the centers of your logs (especially cherry). It you find it, cut and split the pieces, then gouge out the rot so the piece can dry.

If you have to cut the logs into smaller rounds, the length should be a little longer than the diameter of the round. Seal the ends of logs and pieces. Second best solution is to split your pieces into halves or quarters removing the pith. Again, seal the ends

Storage is a problem unless you have a barn or garage large enough. At the very least get your wood off the ground. I keep mine covered to slow down drying.

We use wood shaving for horse bedding. Ive buried several large crotch/burl pieces under several feet of wood chips hoping to equalize the drying.

Lastly, dont make any more blanks then you can use in a couple of days. It will split and check faster then you think.

Good luck!

[Paul Engle]

Aaron, usually winter cut non evergreen , will have less water and sap running especally if winter is way cold / hard , so you will have moisture to combat untill it warms and the wood wants to rehydrate, getter sealed now and covered off the ground ( shed if you have will vent this summer) and you will proably only loose the fruit wood as it is notorious, if you could slice the fruit in say 3 or 4 " thick slabs , with wood sticker between and weigh it down you may not loose as much, ( almost same a air dry klin ) you might look on the web for info on the air dry kiln there are a few mfgr's out there.Good luck and happy turning:D

[Jim Becker]

What's best for turning may be very different from what is best for flat work. As Jim mentioned, the wood around the crotches often has outstanding figure. Same goes for right at the base of the tree.