Tapering Jig

[Warren White]

I have done a search on the Creek, but the results for my subject said "0", so....

I am interested in building a jig to make tapered legs on my table saw. I would be interested in anything you have built that will safely accomplish that task.

Thank you very much.
Warren White

[Dave Richards]

Warren, my version of a taper jig is probably not what you have in mind but I'll share it with you anyway. I use a piece of 1/2" MDF that is long enough to support the work and wide enough to push between the fence and blade comfortably. (I could put a runner on it for the miter gauge slot but I don't usually keep these jigs.) I rip the piece of MDF so I have a zero clearance situation on the edge of it. Then I lay out the desired taper on one of the pieces and stick it to the MDF with carpet tape laying the ends of the taper on the edge. Then I use more carpet tape to stick down some scraps along the leg blank (or whatever it will be) including one at the back end as a hook to keep the piece from sliding. If I'm doing a lot of pieces I might shoot some screws into the alignment blocks but for just a few I don't bother.

I usually tape another piece of scrap the same thickness as the leg blank to the right of the work (fence on right on my TS) and use another block spanning between leg and this scrap as a hold down.

It works fine for me. Minimal fuss, easy to change. If I think I'm going to use the same setup again someday I will screw down the blocks and drill a hole in it so I can hang it on the wall to store it.

[Glenn Clabo]

FWW # 178 or if you subscribe check out -
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/Workshop/WorkshopPDF.aspx?id=24155

and # 128 is good info - http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesPDF.aspx?id=2509

[harry strasil]

Shop built Jig for a Shop Built Saw. Does this qualify?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v81/irnsrgn/wood/taperJig.jpg

[Bob Nelson]

Here's mine:

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f190/shadowhalle/taperjig.jpg

It's Norm's jig.

[JayStPeter]

I'm with Dave Richards. I use a scrap sled with scraps attached to hold the piece in place for the taper. It's easily adaptable to suit any length part and taper.

[Doug Shepard]

Whenever I get around to making my own jig and getting rid of the cheesy $15 aluminum finger eater jig that I have, I'm going to take a few cues from this one.
http://www.woodhaven.com/detail.aspx?ID=2027

[George Summers]

I too use a sled type thingie. Mine has a runner and I use it in the left miter slot. I use 3/4" because I use two DeStaco clamps that get screwed down. I lay the piece to be tapered so the cut line is on the edge of the sled and screw the clamps down to the sled positioned to hold the piece (if I get to the point that there is no more un-holey space to screw the clamps into then I will grab another piece of 3/4" scrap and make a new sled). If it is a thick piece then I put spacers under the clamps. For the third and fourth cut, I put a shim under the leg to hold it level. So far the sled I have now is over four years old and I still have space for more holes.

George

[Peter Stahl]

I have the one that Bob uses and it scared the bejesus out of me when I used it. If I ever do anymore tapered legs I'm going to make the sled type also like Doug is talking about.

[Rob Diz]

I made the jig from #178. Frankly, I think it is the safest way to cut tapers - there is a very adjustable hold down, the work piece rides on a sled, and there is a butt piece to hold the work piece in place. Those aluminum things scare the hell out of me. But for the grace of god does the work piece stay in place. I trust god, but I also have a healthy fear of the TS.

The other nice thing about the jig that is in FWW 178 is that you can make four sided tapers. A nice option.

I found the time to make the sled to be well worth the effort.

[Rob Diz]

I made the jig from #178. Frankly, I think it is the safest way to cut tapers - there is a very adjustable hold down, the work piece rides on a sled, and there is a butt piece to hold the work piece in place. Those aluminum things scare the hell out of me. But for the grace of god does the work piece stay in place. I trust god, but I also have a healthy fear of the TS.

The other nice thing about the jig that is in FWW 178 is that you can make four sided tapers. A nice option.

I found the time to make the sled to be well worth the effort.

[Jim Becker]

I've also generally used the scrap sled method as of late. Draw the taper on one of the workpieces, line it up on the sheet to be used as the sled (usually 1/2" MDF for me), trace the lines, brad or pin nail on some scraps to provide boundries for the work piece, adjust the fence so that the sled meets the blade on the cut side, cut the work. Of course, if the legs are thin, a hold-down is absolutely necessary to keep your fingers away from the blade as well as to support the workpiece so it doesn't tip.

For the Shaker style Thos Moser side stand I like to build, I actually made a "permanent" sled that is set-up to cut the legs. It hangs on the wall and is ready to go when I decide to make another table and has toggle clamps to hold down the work.

[Warren White]

I would like to thank you for the considered responses. I will probably build a modification of the FWW sled. Always fun to build your own jig; now where will I store it?

Thanks again. Your time and help are very appreciated.

Warren