Best non-carbide resaw

[Jameel Abraham]

So I've been reading quite a bit here about bandsaw blades, since I'm about to order a Bridgewood 18" saw. Previoulsy I've just used a 14" saw with locally welded steel blades. I just thought the rough surface from my resawing with a 1/2" 3 TPI blade was the norm. So after reading so many posts about these carbide blades on serious machines, and the surface just needing light sanding/planing--surfaces comparable to a surface planer, I was floored. I had no idea results like this were possible right off the saw.

Steel is pretty much the only choice for basic curve cutting/general use, right?

But for resaw, carbide tip, bimetal, carbide impregnated are all options.

So I'll be pretty much tapped out after this saw purchase for a while, so a Trimaster or the like is out of the question for the time being.

So the question is, what's my best choice for an affordable blade for resawing? And I realize the tri-master is actually cheaper than typical steel in the long rung. Trouble is, my money is short-run at the moment!

[lou sansone]

I have had good results from the timberwolf brand of blades. they often have a buy 3 get one free sale
lou

[Terry Bigelow]

This is what I use.http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=295

[Guy Germaine]

Terry,
do you like the Woodslicer better than the Timberwolf blades? I have a 3/8" and a 1" Timberwolf, and they really cut nice.

[Mike Cutler]

T-Wolve's. Great bang for the buck. Order them direct and you'll save quite a bit over retail. You can also mix and match blades. Get one for resawing Kiln dried lumber,and one for resawing green wood, and one for plexiglas.

The Woodslicer is an excellent blade from Highland hardware. It worked great on my 14" Jet.

Lennox Bi-Metal 2/3 varipitch in 1/2" or wider is a very good blade. I just broke a 1" Bi-metal on an 18" saw that exhibited multiple signs of stress cracking at the gullets. I'm going to drop down to 1/2" or 3/4" on it's replacement. The blade may be too thick for the circumference of an 18" wheel. I detensioned my blades in between use also.

[Bill Arnold]

Here's another vote for the 1/2" Woodslicer. I get cuts that are clean enough to pass through my drum sander for final preparation.

When I first got my 18" bandsaw, I bought some Timberwolf blades including a 3/4" made for resawing. It did OK but I thought it should better. Further inquiries on the Forum led me to the Woodslicer.

[Harold Beck]

I really liked the Highland Hardware Woodslicer for dedicated resawing. I have gotten much smoother results with that than I got with a Timberwolf. A while back I was reading my Iturra catalog and found out that Iturra sells the same blade as Highland Hardware (from the same manufacturer) through their catalog. Price is better though.

HB

[rick fulton]

Jameel,

Another vote for the Wood Slicer.

A few years ago FWW tested 19 blades for speed, flatness, and smoothness of cut. The Wood Slicer produced the smoothest cut, was second in speed of cut, and also rated "very good" in flatness.

A review in another WW mag a few years ago seemed to show a direct correlation between the thickness of the blade and the smoothness of the cut. The thinner kerf of my Wood Slicer (0.022") reduces HP requirements, reduces waste, and also supplies a smoother cut than my Tri-Master (0.035").

rick

[Pete Brown]

I have a couple woodslicers. I have the Highland version and the Iturra version. I forget which, but one of them is wider than the other (3/4 vs 5/8 or something like that).

Excellent blade. It didn't plow through quite as quickly as my Lenox, but it left a much smoother cut. Like all non-carbide blades, it will dull rather quickly. However, unlike some carbide blades, you can afford to keep backups :)

Pete

[Jameel Abraham]

Great info everyone.

Rick, so are you saying that the Woodslicer gives smoother results than the carbide-tipped Tri-master? Wow. I though that for sure the carbide would be smoother. Anyone else have this experience?

[James Carmichael]

Lennox or Starrett, 1/2" 3tpi hook.

I can't bring myself to pay $35 for a carbon-steel blade (woodslicer).

[Hal Flynt]

WoodSlicer works very well for me too.

[James Carmichael]

I see lots of woodslicer users in this thread, so maybe someone can clue me in as to what makes it worth 3x the cost of other carbon steel blades:

Does it last 3x as long?

Is the cut so smooth it requires no planing or sanding?

Can you resaw veneers without face-jointing between cuts?

Not trying to be a smart-a, I just really don't get it.

[Jim Becker]

Design of the blade, James...it's not a general purpose blade and was developed specifically for resaw work. (No matter what, never use your resaw blade for curved cutting of any kind...even gentle curves...it will affect the set of the teeth and cause wandering to happen far sooner than later)

[Mike Cutler]

I see lots of woodslicer users in this thread, so maybe someone can clue me in as to what makes it worth 3x the cost of other carbon steel blades:

Does it last 3x as long?

Is the cut so smooth it requires no planing or sanding?

Can you resaw veneers without face-jointing between cuts?

Not trying to be a smart-a, I just really don't get it.

James.
On my 14" Jet, w/riser. I tried all kinds of blades to resaw. I used T-Wolves, Pro Steel, The inhouse Woodcrafts. Starrets, Olson, PS Wood.

None of these blades were "bad", but the 1/2" Woodslicer gave the most uniform, predictable result. It still required sanding, but heck, My 1" Lennox TriMaster, on an 18" bandsaw, at $150.00 still requires sanding.
There was less barreling, less blade wander, and an overall more uniform thickness.
This was my experience with the blade. I don't remember it being 3x the cost of a comparable T-Wolf, but I'll take your word for it.
The blade just worked for me.

[Mark Duginske]

There are two options, the best finsh such as the T-wolf and woodslicer give a good finish, but are not very durable.

After doing extensive testing I found that Olson MVP (bimetal) to be the most durable in the noncarbide (for about the same price as the woodslicer). I do not recomment the carbide other than the Lenox trimaster or the Laguna Resaw King because they are really designed for metal and are likely to have a disturbing harmonic vibration.

[Jim Becker]

Welcome to SMC, Mark!! I hope you'll continue to stop by when your time allows and contribute your profound expertise to the community!

[Mike Cutler]

Mark.

First. Welcome to Sawmill Creek. Pleased to meet you.

How does the Olson Bi-metal compare to the Lennox Bi-Metal?

Once again though. Welcome To Sawmill Creek.


Jameel.
Have you picked a blade to try out yet? and what were your results if you have?

[Marc Gélinas]

Hi folks, still new around here and was wondering if anyone has experience with the LeeValley resaw blades?

[Jameel Abraham]

Thanks Mark D. Great info.

I just uncrated my brand spanking new Bridgewood this morning (pics in another thread), so I'm eager to try thie puppy out.

Mike, I decided that I should cut my teeth on this saw with a basic blade before I plunk down any serious cash. I'm having a local supplier weld up some typical blades, 1/4" x 6 and a 3/4" x 3 for resawing. He says the blades are as good as timberwolfs, but heard good things about the woodslicer. After I learn the saw, I'll probably eventually plunk down for carbide. Gotta pay off this saw first!

Anyone know a good supplier for the Olson MVP Mark mentioned?

[James Carmichael]

Thank you, Mark, that really useful information.

Enjoyed your book very much.

[James Carmichael]

Design of the blade, James...it's not a general purpose blade and was developed specifically for resaw work. (No matter what, never use your resaw blade for curved cutting of any kind...even gentle curves...it will affect the set of the teeth and cause wandering to happen far sooner than later)

Yes, I understand it's a resaw blade. So is a 1/2" 3tpi hook Lennox or Starrett carbon blade, which cost about 1/3 as much.

Mike answered my question. And, no, Mike, the woodslicer not 3x as much as a TW, the price comparison was to Lennox or Starrett carbon blades.

[Jameel Abraham]

I just resawed about 30 lin feet, 6" wide with a 3/4" 3tpi run-of-the-mill blade. Boy did it suck! The first few feet were fine, but after that I had to push really hard to get it to feed, and the blade would whine intermittently. The cuts were straight across the board, but the spots where it whined there were deep wavy patterns. I adjusted the tension a bit up and down with the same result. I'm going to have to bone up on resawing technique, because this isn't any better than my 14" Grizzly.

[Mark Duginske]

For my new book I've been doing a lot of testing of blades. All of the blades mentioned are "good blades" they are just good at different things. For finish it is hard to beat the woodlsicer but that blade is not good for making curves
because it has so little set. You have to decide on durability versus finish.

I usually use an Olson bimetal which will outlast a standard carbon blade by roughly 20 times, however the finsih is not as good as the timberwolf or the
woodslicer. When I'm doing curved chair backs I switch to the slicer for easy cleanup with hand tools.

[Mark Duginske]

I think that the Olson MVP and the Lennox are pretty similar. However,
most of us have a nonstandard size length and Olson will weld a custom length and send it directly to you at a good price. Their number is 800-272-8622 , I deal with TOM.

These blades are not as sharp as a carbon blade but you can put it on a saw and forget about it. I know a patterenmaker who cuts fiberglass and this is all they use. For a wood like teak with a lot of silica it will hold up as well as carbide.

I have tried the lennox 1/2" carbide and do not like it. It likes to vibrate and just about all tension levels.

I run the 1/2" MVP at the 3/4" saw scale setting.

[Rob Will]

I'm new to resawing but I am impressed with the cut and price of a bulk blade made at a local industrial supply house. It is a 1-1/4" 1.3 tpi hook x 19'-8" long. What really surprised me was the price for this monster blade - $29.00 each.

[Mike Weaver]

Welcome Mark!

Thanks for your comments.

As a new MM16 owner [alhough unproven without the pics :eek:], the topic of blade selection is very pertinent to me (as is the blade tension).

I hope you can find the time to 'check in' regularly.
-Mike